Kisokaidô: Warabi - Station 02

Keizai Eisen - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Warabi (3rd print) - Warabi station - Ferry on the Toda river (Warabi no eki, Toda gawa watashi)

(Original print, 1st state, collection of Metropolitan Museum, New York)

Warabi is located beyond the Toda-gawa river, known today as Arakawa river. It is one of Tokyo's main rivers and was used as the northern natural line of defense of Edo castle and this is why there is no bridge and only a ferry to cross. It is evening and the red gradation of the setting sun can be seen over the horizon line. On board the ferry is a motley band of travelers: a pair of crouching itinerant blind women (1) or goze (blind women travelling and playing music on shamisen, a three-stringed Japanese plucked instrument), three travellers wearing sedge hats (2), a man and his horse (3) and a porter in the bow enjoying a smoke (4). A single boatman (5) propels the craft and two herons lazily take off. On the far bank, travelers await the arrival of the ferry and one can see the roofs of the station (6) at the top of the slope.

The print bears the signature 渓斎画 and the seals of Hoeido (保永 - 竹内). In later impression, the Eisen's signature is removed and the setting sun is paler, giving a much flatter print.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Ferry at Warabi ca. 1870

Bridges over Arakawa river in 2006

And now ?

Warabi is located at 4里28 町(4ri, 28 cho = 18.8Km/11 mi) from Nihonbashi. In 1875, one still had to take a ferry as in Hiroshige print to cross the river as shown on this old picture. Now several bridges have been built for railway traffic, local roads and expressways.

Today Warabi is a charmless suburb. A monument indicates the location of the former honjin, but there is nothing left of the old station. Nishijima Katsuyuki has chosen one of the few remaining old buildings to illustrate the station in his series.

Monument at the location of the former honjin at Warabi

Warabi - Nakasendo road

Aerial view of Warabi in 2012

Nishijima Katsuyuki - Series Kisokaido - Warabi (ca.2000)