Kisokaidô: Mochizuki - Station 25

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Mochizuki (26th print) (Mochizuki)

© Trustees of the British Museum

We are now approaching the mountains. Mt.Tateshina (1) and the valley are visible beyond the road lined with pine trees (2). These trees were planted along large stretches of the national highways by government orders to provide shade and protection for travelers, but they could also be chopped down to block the roads and hinder an approaching enemy force. Travelers with two laden pack-horses (3) are spread out on the ascent of the Uryu slope between Yawata, the previous station and Mochizuki. Mochizuki means literally “full moon” and this may have inspired Hiroshige for this night scene, considered one of the landscape masterpieces in the Kisokaido series.

The first printing as here have a beautiful bokashi gradation on the mountain (1), but this disappears in later editions. The blue gradation in the sky becomes more important, until it fills the whole sky. Then the wooden block for the blue saddlecloth of the horse is chipped and a small area appears white in subsequent editions, such as the one from New York Metropolitan Museum on the right.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Mochizuki: Later printing with the damaged saddle cloth

View of Mochizuki station in "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

Note the procession in the middle of the road with the lord in his palanquin

Mochizuki: Kisokaido road in 1878

Mochizuki: Kisokaido road in 2007

And now ?

The road today is still lined with pine trees. The road goes around the foot of the hill, crowned with castle ruins and follows two right-angled bends as it enters Mochizuki. The double square-angled bends or “masugata” are passive defensive structures found usually in castles and in towns designed to slow down an enemy, preventing him to see what lies ahead and to plan an attack. Mochizuki was a small station with 82 buildings, one honjin, one waki-honjin and nine inns. It was well known for its horse-breeding farms and was supplying horses to the Imperial court and to the Shogun.

Today, Mochizuki has still the old station atmosphere with its waki-hnjin and several old houses. Between Mochizuki and Ashida, the next station, there was an intermediate station (ai-no-shuku) named Motai. It is well preserved with several old white-washed buildings and sake breweries. The latter have always large boxwood balls over their gate as trademarks.

Mochizuki: Hatago Yamatoya built in 1765

Mochizuki: Hatago Yamatoya built in 1765

Mochizuki: Hatago Yamatoya built in 1765

Mochizuki: Waki-honjin

Mochizuki: The village and the castle ruins on top of the hill

Motai: Entrance of the Oozawa sake brewery

Motai: Takeshige sake brewery

Motai: Takeshige sake brewery