Kisokaidô: Annaka - Station 15
Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Annaka (16th print) (Annaka)
© Trustees of the British Museum
Annaka was an important castle town, seat of the Itakuna family. It is located at 29ri 19 cho (117km/80mi) from Nihonbashi and 5k/3mi from Itahana. However to reach the station, one had to cross the river twice and there was an intermediate stop before the second crossing. The road was lined with restaurants and rest houses as can be seen on the print. The print shows the road after Takasaki on a bright day with a grove of plum trees just coming into bloom. The entourage of a feudal lord (1) makes its way up the slope, passing three rest houses on the left while a traveler stops in front of a small restaurant (2), possibly similar to the one in the picture below, taken in Kyoto in 1898.
There were minor modifications as the printing progressed with the loss of the gradation of the roof of the restaurant and on the mountain. Then later the Kinjudo seal is added and the printing became coarser.
(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)
Rest house near Kyoto in 1898
And now ?
A first castle was built in Annaka in 1559 by Annaka Tadamasa (who gave his name to the town). It was destroyed five years later by Takeda Shingen during the civil wars of the Sengoku period. A second castle was built in 1614 by Ii Noakatsu, son of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s most famous general and became later the seat of the Itakuna family. The Itakuna family remained in charge until the clan feudal system was abolished by Emperor Meiji in 1870. In 1855, Itakuna Katsuakira is remembered for asking his retainers to run up to the Usui pass 28km/18 mi away, thus starting the Japanese long distance runs. A race on the same course is held every year in mid-May.
Every honjin had to keep guest registers, but most of them disappeared in fire or when the station system was stopped at the end of 19th century. However the Annaka honjin books have been kept, giving invaluable information on the Kisokaido road traffic, the food and lodgings in the station. The honjin itself does not exist anymore. There are several old houses in today’s city, such as this rice granary with white-washed walls and its fireproof windows. Rice was the measure of wealth, measured in “koku” (around 1801) and was kept in well protected granaries.
The castle has been destroyed, but parts of the samurai quarters still exist. This superb building built in 1850 is made of four units where a single samurai lived. During festivals, there are re-enactments with period costumes. Another old administrative building built in 1840 survived and is the subject of Nishijima’s print.
Annaka - Old granary
Annaka - Old house/adminstrative building ca.1840
Annaka - Old house/adminstrative building ca.1840
Annaka - Samurai lodging, street view
Annaka - Samurai lodging, courtyard view
Annaka - Samurai lodging - Re-enactment
Nishijima Katsuyuki - Series of the Kisokaido - Annaka