Kisokaidô: Okegawa - Station 06

Keizai Eisen - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Okegawa (7th print) - Okegawa station, View of Open country (Okegawa shuku Kogen no kei)

(Edition done in 1950's by Kyoto Hanga-in under the supervision of Narazaki Muneshige, the most faithful to the first edition)

The station of Okegawa was famous for the Kano Tenjin Shrine nearby and for its heated thermal baths that were said to cure a number of diseases. Located at 40km/30mi from Nihonbashi, many travellers would make their last stop here. In 1840, Okegawa had 340 inns, 36 palanquins stations and over 20 brothels. Despite these urban attractions, Eisen chose to illustrate a simple autumnal scene on in the countryside. A traveller (1) approaches a peasant woman (2) threshing wheat in front of her house. Inside the house, her husband (3) lights his pipe at the hearth. A string of tobacco leaves (4) is drying under the eaves. A horseman rides along the road as it zigzags over the flat plain.

The first edition is the only one which is signed. In later printings both the signature and the upper Takenouchi seals are lost. Also in the first edition, the woman’s face had a brown block under her brow in order to give depth and this is omitted in later versions. As printing progressed, the stripes on her robe disappeared, the pale green in the foreground was replaced by a darker green, the color of the horizon changed from purple to red and the sky changed from red to blue.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Beato - Tokaido Road in 1872

And now ?

The Kisokaido road is now superseded by the modern National road and not much is left of the old road. But it may have been like the Tokaido road as seen in the picture taken by the famous photographer Beato in 1872. Today, the gate of the former Honjin, an inn built in 1821 and the walls of old warehouses near the old mile marker, subject of Nishijima's print are the only remains of the old station.

Okegawa - Gate of the former honjin

Okegawa - An old Hatago (inn)

Okegawa - Wall of the old warehouses

Nishijima Katsuyuki - Series of the Kisokaido - Okegawa