Kisokaidô: Kuragano - Station 12

Keizai Eisen - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Kuragano (13th print), view of Karasu-gawa River (Kuragano shuku Karasugawa no zu)

© Trustees of the British Museum

Kuragano at 100km/75 mi from Nihonbashi is surrounded by three rivers: Tone-gawa, Karasu-gawa and Kabura-gawa. During the spring period and the rainy season, the water was high enough to allow for a ferry service to and from Edo. Goods were transported by water by boat for transport farther on. The station (1) can be seen here on the bank of the Karasu-gawa. On the river a cargo boat loaded with rice (2) follows a raft of log (3) downstream. In a wayside rest stop, a stylish young woman (4) reclines with a cup of tea. On a small landing, a maid (5) scours an iron rice cooker. The two women are rendered in a city style that made Eisen a famous painter of beauties. In the water nearby naked boys are playing, one of them having caught a turtle (6).

The print here is a later impression with missing signature and publisher seal (On the right, you can see a modern reproduction with seal). In the first printings, The mountain was green to refer to snow-melting and arrival of spring andthe river was so dark that it was difficult to distinguish the cargo and the log raft on the river. The river then became clearer, but the contrast with the green mountain was unsatisfactory. The mountain was then changed to gray, losing the reference to the season.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Log raft ca. 1905 (here on Hozu River north of Kyoto)

And now ?

Kuragano-shuku was at the crossing of the Nakasendo and of the Nikko Reiheishi Kaido, leading to Nikko, the main Tokugawa shrine, north of Edo. There used to be a small castle and in 1840, there were 32 inns. Now it is a district of Takasaki and not much remains of the old station, apart from a few stone blocs from the former castle and the former waki-honjin, subject of Nishijima’s print. The rivers are not used for cargo or passenger traffic anymore.

Takasaki is know for its Daruma dolls. These are hollow round-shaped dolls without arms or legs modeled after Bodhidharma. The doll is usually red and its face sports mustache and beard. Initially the eyes are white, without iris. At the beginning of the year, the left eye is drawn with black ink while formulating a wish. The Daruma doll is stored in a high place in the house until the time the wish is granted. Then the second eye is drawn to give eyesight to the Daruma. At the end of the year, the Daruma is sent back to the temple where it was bought and burned together in a solemn ceremony.

Daruma by David Bull

David Bull is a Canadian artist, living in Japan

Visit his website www.woodblock.com

Kuragano - Karasu-gawa River

Kuragano - Location of the former castle

Kuragano - Waki honjin

Nishijima Katsuyuki - Series of the Kisokaido - Kuragano