Kisokaidô: Nihonbashi

Keizai Eisen - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Starting point (1st print) - Snow on Nihonbashi bridge on New Year's morning (Nihonbashi yuki no akebono)

(Edition done in 1950's by Kyoto Hanga-in under the supervision of Narazaki Muneshige, the most faithful to the first edition)

Nihonbashi bridge or « Bridge of Japan » was the heart of the city of Edo and the starting point of all Japanese roads. It is from this point that the roads are measured and where the first milepost Ichiri-zuka is located. The mileposts were placed every ri or 4km/2 ½ miles. Here Eisen shows us the bridge bustling with traffic on New Year’s dawn (akebono) after a fresh snow fall (yuki). It is the first day of the year and two elegant women (1) wrapped against the cold came to see Mt.Fuji from Nihonbashi to bring luck for the rest of the year. Eisen’s perspective however is toward east rather than west and Mt.Fuji cannot be seen. On the left, a pedestrian carries an umbrella (2) with the name and address of the publisher Takenouchi and the symbol of the sheep indicating the year (1835). Below the second umbrella, a fishmonger hawks the “first bonito” (3), a New Year’s delicacy highly prized by Edo’s citizens. And the sun rises over the warehouses (4), evidence of the commercial activity of the city.

This print was modified several times. First the name of the publisher changed to Iseri with the Kinjudo emblem and with the date removed. Then the Eisen signature is removed and the publisher name changes to Yamada.

(Source: the 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

The Nihonbashi bridge is also the first print of the Tokaido series by Hiroshige, showing the fish market and depicting the town activity. A daimyo procession is coming on the bridge. First two servants carrying boxes with ceremonial kimonos, then the standard-bearers and just behind one can guess the samurai. Watchtowers against the fires with their alarm bells dot the roofs (Hiroshige was captain in a fire brigade).

Series of the 53 stations of the Tokaido road: Starting point (1st print) - Nihonbashi bridge

© Trustees of the British Museum

Nihon-Bashi Bridge - "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

A shopping street in Edo - "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

Nihonbashi bridge ca. 1870

View of Nihonbashi district ca.1860 (Thanks to Michel Simon for the picture)

Postcard of Nihonbashi by night (1911)

Postcard of Nihonbashi (1911)

Nihonbashi bridge in 1946

Nihonbashi bridge in 2012

And now ?

The wooden bridge and warehouses are still present early 20th century. In 1911, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone bridge with candelabras as can be seen in 1930's and 1940's prints below. The last wooden warehouses and barges are still there in 1930, but surrounded by tall buildings. Then larger buildings replace the warehouses after the Second World War. It is the financial district with the stock exchange nearby, but it retains its shopping area with the huge Mitsukoshi department store. Nihonbashi bridge is also the point from which all road distances are calculated as indicated by the bronze plaque (Point "0") to be seen on the right.

For the 1964 Olympic Games, urban expressways were built on huge pillars following the rivers and canals. One of these is just above Nihonbashi bridge , destroying the view.... In old times, it was said that by clear weather, Mt.Fuji could be seen from the bridge, something which could not be done today, even with lower pollution levels....

Nishijima Katsuyuki chose to illustrate the first print of his Kisokaido series with one of the buildings surrounding the bridge, instead of depicting the bridge itself.