Kisokaidô: Tarui - Station 57

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Tarui (59th print) (Tarui)

© Trustees of the British Museum

Tarui was located at a strategic spot on the Kisokaido where the Mino road branched off to the south leading to Miya, the 42^nd station on the Tokaido road and thus linking the two main roads. In the centre of the print, an officer (1) of the station walks beneath an umbrella in front of a daimyo procession forewarning villagers and travellers to show respect for the Lord. On both sides of the road, proprietors and customers are humbling themselves and kneeling (2). Had they not done so, they would have risked being executed instantly by the lord’s samurai retainers. Behind the officer, the retainers (3), wearing either straw coats or green robes against the rain are approaching the stone walls (4) that marked the boundary of the station. The palanquin bearing their master (5) can be seen coming into view in the centre between the stately pines trees. On either side is a teashop doubling as a gallery. The one on the left is a restaurant advertises « ochanozuke », a rice dish made with tea and savouries. It is displaying the 林“kin” emblem (6) of the publisher Kinjudo and has prints for sale hanging inside. On the right, a teashop is displaying beauty and landscape prints.

This print was not modified as the editions progressed, except for the bokashi at the top and bottom of the print which are reduced and the publisher’s seal which is missing.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Boys' day carp-shaped flags (hand colored picture 1895)

Tea pickers on the foothills of Mino plain (Hand colored picture 1890)

And now ?

Tarui is one of the oldest stations on the road. It is already mentioned in 12^th century writings, but it was probably a halt on the road for much longer due to its strategic position. The Minoji or Mino-kaido, a secondary road linking the Nakasendo and the Tokaido roads between Tarui and Miya, the 42^nd station on the Tokaido, was 60km/40 mi long and had 9 stations. Tarui was also an important market town where farmers from the surroundings counties came to sell their fresh products, especially the green tea leaves growing on the slopes of Mt.Ikeda. Mt.Ikeda is a nice hiking ground, either in spring with the blossoming trees or in the fall when the maple trees are red.

Tarui had 315 buildings and 45 inns located in three boroughs of the East, Middle and West sections. The honjin was in the Middle section and only its gate remains. Several old houses are still standing and two old inns are still in business: the Nagahama and the Kamemuraya, built in 1777. The castle has been destroyed and the castle gate leads to a school standing in its place.

Tarui was also well-known for the Tangu-Taisha, a large Shinto shrine established in the 7^th century and rebuilt in 1642 after a fire. Its red buildings are very typical of shrine architecture. The Shinzen-ji Temple, its associated Buddhist temple has been moved to the other side of the city. The Tarui festival is well attended by tourists. It coincides with Children’s Day on May 5^th where families raise the carp-shaped koinobori flag. The carp refers to a Chinese legend stating that a carp that swims upstream becomes a dragon and carps have become symbols for strength and perseverance. In the Middle Ages, this was Iris Day, flower announcing the summer. During this day, there were tournaments and archery contests and it was progressively associated with warriors and men until it became Boy’s day. It was changed after the War into Children’s day. During the Edo period, on this day, aristocratic male children received their kit and armor.