2015 Jerusalem
(Traveled from Jordan)
Friday 30 October 2015
We are right next door to the folks and have a private shared door. Late in the evening, Mom knocked on the door and asked if there was anything I could do to help. They were roasting to death. I showed her how to turn on the A/C and set it too the lowest 16 Celsius and high fan. Well, in the morning, they said they had frozen! They put all their coats and towels over them to keep warm. Mom has finally figured out how to turn off the fan.
At breakfast we met Scott and Shauna Barricks, who had just joined the tour, arriving last night. Scott is the general manager of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. They arrived at Tel Aviv only a few hours earlier.
Dad was feeling bad so they're taking a break today.
After a very short bus ride, we arrived at one end of Hezekiah's tunnel. King David got one of his soldiers to climb up the well Spring of Gibon. The soldier then killed the guards and opened the gate so David's army could sneak in and take Jerusalem. It then became known as the City of David. King Hezekiah knew the water was a weakness and had a tunnel dug to bring the water inside the walls. He then had the spring covered up so that he would not be providing water to his enemies, nor could they poison the water.
The tunnel is 1,777 feet long and the water is generally only 6 inches deep. But it's about two to three feet deep in parts. It's interesting to think about how they were able to get the two ends to meet with the rudimentary equipment they had at that time. They started at both ends and met in the middle. There is a bit of turns (in the middle) to get the two tunnels to met. But still an amazing architectural feat!
After leaving the tunnel, we came to a little pool. We had to go up then down to get to the final resting place of the water: the Pool of Siloam. This was an expansive porch where the women came to fill their pictures of water. They could also sit and socialize.
Right next to the pool was the Southern Stairs which lead to/from the Temple. On the Feast of Atonement, the High Priest would bring the golden pitcher from the Temple down the steps to the pool where the water (which was moving, not stagnant) could be drawn. He would then take it back to the Temple for ceremonial use. We had a wonderful devotional there on the stairs and talked about the High Priest. Jim also expounded upon the parable of the man blind from birth and how the Savior made clay after meeting him as he left the Temple via the southern stairs. The man was instructed to wash in the pool of Siloam. If we had been here 2000 years ago, the blind man would have passed among us on his way to the pool to wash.
It was very moving. The stairs were just recently discovered, about 6 years ago. They are being excavated underneath existing Arab houses. The Israeli government wants to buy the buildings above, demolish them and expose the stairs to the skies as they once were.
We left the pool and stairs. The schedule was to go to Jacob's Well, but there was some unrest there last night, so instead we went to the Galilean Wilderness and viewed the Road to Jericho. Except for a monastery (St. George's Monastery), the whole place is barren. We saw a Bedouin man herding his sheep along the road. The road isn't very wide, and there isn't much room to 'cross to the other side'. Sister Krzyminski did a devotional on the Good Samaritan, focusing on the elements and the interpretation.
We took a rest stop at a Palestinian Glass shop. The glass was lovely, mostly blues and greens. Then on to Jericho.
Jericho was a bit underwhelming. We visited a large tell (mountain) being excavated. They had a fountain that was supposed to be where Elijah created the flowing water. They also have a cave near the top of the nearby mountain which is supposedly where Jesus endured the three temptations during his 40-day fast.
Next, a short stop in Bethany (House of the Poor) where Lazarus lived (and died, and then lived again, before he finally died). When I was there (40 years ago) the road was just that. A road. Now, it's a pedestrian-only walkway. 40 years ago, across the street, was an Arab Home, where I visited to see what it was like in an Arab household.
Now, it's a souvenir store.
We returned to the hotel to drop off our gear and then raced to the Western Wall (also called the Wailing Wall). Because of the unrest in Hebron (at least that's what we think) there were very few praying at the wall. We split into our genders and went to the appropriate sections. Jim said he's never seen so few people there. We gathered some chairs and sat and discussed. A young Jew asked us if we needed any assistance. Apparently they are there to help the visiting Jew (like from New York) who don't know how to put on the phylacteries or things like that.
A devout Jewish man was there with his three very young children. He was reading/chanting from a scroll (apparently they are stored in that area and can be checked out, like a library). At various points, his sons would join in chanting the scripture with him. It was a very touching scene to see a father attending to the religious training of his sons.
At one point someone asked if we could pray at the wall. Jim said anyone can. So individually, someone from our group would get up and walk to the wall and have a prayer moment. I felt touched and honored that I was with men of renown that could pray publicly without shame. My prayer thoughts focused on my parents and my sons, their lovely wives and their dear families.
We had no trouble and eventually gathered back with the women of our group. Since Mom and Dad were taking a break this day, Lynn and I were able to walk a bit faster. We were, in fact, in front of everyone and were walking hand in hand. We stopped to let the others catch up and someone said they regretted not having their camera because they wanted to take a picture of us, since it looked like we were in love.
Dad and Mom had an adventurous day. They were initially planning to go to a nearby neighborhood medical outlet to see if they could get any diagnosis of Dad's pain. The facilities were closed for the Sabbath. Mom found a pharmacy and was advised that they should to go to the local hospital. Some very kind person helped get them a taxi and refused a tip. At the hospital they got great care, X-rays, a CD copy thereof and a shot for a little more than one hundred bucks!
Saturday 31 October 2015
We left the hotel at 8:30 AM for an appointment at a Franciscan-managed garden on the Mount of Olives. There we talked about the Atonement, sang a hymn and spent some quiet time contemplating. I directed the singing. It's quiet in the garden. High walls shut out most of the city sounds.
There is a feeling of peace within.
Then it was off to the BYU center (the sign says Mormon University) for Sacrament meeting with a great view of Jerusalem. It was wonderful to sit between two of our former bishops and their wives overlooking the traditional temple mount as we waited for the meeting to begin.
Our afternoon destination was Bethlehem. Due to current political unrest, we drove to Bethlehem via a back path. The main entrance has a checkpoint that can sometimes be very long to get thru. We entered the area controlled by the Palestinians.
For lunch we went to the Tent Restaurant. That food very excellent! The first course was pita bread with some delicious toppings served family style. Wow were they good. We were warned not to fill up on that course, though. Next came kebab and chicken with fries. We were full and satisfied.
Not far away was 'the Shepherds Field' where supposedly the Shepherds saw the angel announcing the Birth of the Savior. Jim helped us to understand that the sheep would not have been on the hillside grazing (as the artists depict). Rather they would have been in the fold, a natural cave where they would have been protected from wolves. The shepherds were thus guarding the entry. I gave my Bethlehem devotional.
I spoke on how Bethlehem is the House of Bread, also known as the City of David (not the conquest city but the ancestral city). The pinnacle achievement of Bethlehem was the Birthplace of the Savior. I then talked about the life of shepherds; how they could watch the stars and see the moon, rising in the east and setting in the west, and how the stars spun around in the sky. I then explained how the moon is actually going west to east, but that the earth is rotating the same way but faster, so it's just the appearance. Also, it is the earth that's spinning, not the stars.
We then read Psalms 8:3-5. I talked about the chaotic life we live in and then played part of Far, Far Away on Judea's Plains on my PVC flute. Michael Harward had purchased one from one of the vendors and joined in! We had stereo music for my devotional.
I ended by saying sometimes it seems the commandments are backwards, but if we trust on the Bread of Life as our Guiding Star, while the earth might not have peace, at least we can have Peace on Earth. I then played the last line of the song: Peace on Earth, Goodwill towards men.
Arriving at Bethlehem, we entered a big bus terminal. We had to walk up the hill to the Church of Nativity. On the way we saw a shop called ‘Stars and Bucks’, a clear knock off of Starbucks coffee shop.
Most Holy places in the Middle East have a church built on top of them, and the Birthplace of Christ is no exception. In fact, three churches have jurisdiction over the location. Which means they all three get to take their turns bringing people into the spot where Jesus was born.
When we were there, one group didn't have any visitors, but they still took their turn. So we had to wait.
It wasn't really very spiritual. More ceremonial and pageantry.
Mark was in the Holy Land 40 years ago. Here's a picture taken by a guard of the Church of the Nativity: Mark standing guard. And the today's version of that same place. They definitely did not let me hold their firearm this time.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at Jimmy’s Bazaar. Jimmy is a vendor of Olive wood carvings which are a very traditional gift from the Holy land. Jimmy also caters to the LDS visitors. He has the First Vision, Captain Moroni, even a Liahona carving. After showing his basic wares, he then showed us his special carvings. One very intricate one was Joseph and pregnant Mary on a donkey going to Bethlehem. Listed at $1800. He told us everything was ½ price to us since he didn’t have to provide a kick back to Jim for bringing us there. (Kickbacks are how local guides and bus drivers supplement their earnings). So only $900. for us. Not the most expensive in the store, but nearly. We were able to get it for $750 if we carried it home ourselves. Jim said afterwards he has that same piece, so we know it's nice.
Sunday 1 November 2015
In the morning, we went straight to the Western Wall. They've excavated along the wall to both ends, and the discoveries are fascinating. We were walking underneath the existing city buildings. Starting at the Wilson Arch, we traveled along the wall to the corner.
We saw excellent example of Herod-constructed foundation blocks with the picture frame edge. Near the sealed-up entrance gate to the Holy of Holies, Jewish women pray round the clock for the return of the Messiah.
Coming out, we started visiting some of the stations of the 17 Stations of the Cross. We started at the Church of the Condemnation, where we saw a lovely example of the type of manger the Savior would have been laid in.
Following the via Dolorosa, we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I was quite disappointed as it was ceremonial and pageantry-ish. But someone suggested that it was good to have that comparison, as I could then appreciate the sacredness of the other sites.
Leaving the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, we came to the Cardo Maximus street, the center of town.
The cardo was the main north–south-oriented street in Ancient Roman cities (Wikipedia)
Just before we came to the temple area we saw a golden menorah replicating the one that was pillaged from the Temple by the Romans.
Exploring the south-west corner of the Temple was very interesting. We saw the corner piece that fell from the very top of the wall. It has a Hebrew inscription: the trumpeter stands here. Back in the old days, the ushering in of the Sabbath was very important, and since few had a watch, a trumpeter would blow a horn to signal the beginning and end of the Sabbath. We saw gigantic blocks forming the base of the walls. We also saw the pile of blocks still left to demonstrate the destruction of the walls. We even got a nice all-men's picture.
They excavated the shops lining both sides of the street that went along the western wall, as well as the stairs to the path that went over the shops so you didn't have to get called to by the vendors.
Coming around the corner we saw the Southern steps and the Hulda gate. Our at least the part that is still showing that isn't covered up by the Mosque.
Directly in front of that is original stonework from the time of Christ which we are standing on. When Neil Armstrong was asked what was the most important moment in his life, (instead of answering when he stood on the moon) he said when he stood at the Hulda gate on ground the Savior stood on.
We moved further east and saw the 3 exit gates.
We saw a film depicting a Jewish pilgrim coming to the temple for the first time.
Approaching from the South, just before the Hulda gate, are ritual washing baths. You descend on one side unclean and come up on the other ritually clean. You can then enter the Temple worthily.
At the Book of the Scroll museum we saw a large scale model of Jerusalem. Inside, we saw relics from Qumran and a copy of the scroll of Isaiah. They also had an interesting exhibit of a nano Bible; a Bible printed on a square plate piece of gold the size of the pea.
Monday 2 November 2015
Dad was starting to feel better and he and Mom both came on the bus to the Temple Mount. Dad wasn't completely better and chose to stay in the bus. Mom walked with us up to the Mount. We had to pass thru a security station. Once up on the Mount, we walked around, seeing the Mosques and the porches. We ended at the Golden Gate. Jim explained that it was sealed by an Arab mayor because the city citizens were skipping the shops and going straight to the Temple and back without buying anything. Since the mayor received taxes from the sales, he saw the 'wisdom' in sealing the gate. This closure turned out to be in fulfillment of a prophecy.
We then walked to the pool of Bethesda. On the way we passed by a church labeled Birthplace of the Virgin Mary. Is it the birthplace? Who knows. Rather than say 'I don't know', a religious leader would give an answer to a question asked by important people that came visiting the Holy City in days gone past.
Next we went into a church (Church of Saint Anne) that has great acoustics. We sang a hymn and it was really good. We walked down to the area where the pool was located. There was still water in the pool, and I was able to reach my foot thru the gate to touch the water. I probably wasn't the first.
After that, we took the bus to the top of the Mount of Olives. Mom and Dad decided that it was a bit too much walking to take the path the Savior took on the day he entered Jerusalem. We reviewed Matthew 24 which he gave from the hillside. We also visited the Orson Hyde Park.
Then, across the street to the Garden of Gethsemane. There were about a half dozen 'Witness Trees'; olive trees that were there during the time of Christ. Of course, there's was also a church (Church of All Nations'), built around a flat rock professed to be the rock on which Christ suffered in Gethsemane.
Then, on the Cenacle. The Upper Room (also known as the Cenacle) is located in the southern part of the Old City of Jerusalem on Mount Zion. It turned out to be very inspirational. There were a lot of others in the room, each group in their own corner. Each talking. Those giving our devotional were kind of surprised and frustrated at the noise and expressed the thought that they had a different idea of the quietness they expected. But when they shared their thoughts, even in that noisy environment, it was spiritual! Then, we sang the hymn, (How Great the Wisdom). Our voices were so powerful the guards came in and started to ask our guide to quiet us down. But another group in the room intervened for us and stated they were enjoying our music and wanted us to keep singing. Our group has some great voices.
Our next destination was palace of Caiaphas, where Christ was accused by the Sanhedrin. They believe this is the actual places because they found ossuary boxes bearing the Caiaphas family name. Below the building is the place where they whipped the Savior and, not written about, a pit that would have been filled with mire. The prisoners would be lowered down with a rope and they often became so weak that they would sink down in the mire and drown. Then the Sanhedrin would be able to say they were innocent of having killed the prisoner. While in the pit we sang There is a Green Hill.
Once more to the bus to go to the Garden Tomb. This is an alternative site of the burial preferred by Protestants and members of our Church. It's outside the city wall, in a garden, and has a tomb hewn out of rock. We all got to go inside and then gather for a devotional. The site is maintained by a non denominational group. Our guide was a Swede who had a simple sincere testimony of his faith.
Many of the group went back to the hotel while the rest of us went for a walk around the city wall on the ramparts. We had to pay for the tickets in shekels which we think was a scam because the exchange conveniently next door charged 10% to exchange our $10. Anyway, we went up onto the ramparts at the Joppa gate and walked around till we got to Herod's gate.
We had an interesting view of the city and of the backyards of those whose property backs up to the wall. We met a very nice lady from Netherlands who invited us to dinner (bring your own food). They own the home but only visit during holidays. They rent the home the other days. Houses inside the city cost millions! The owners are property-rich but cash-poor. So they can't fix them up. The yards of the Arab houses are a mess.
When we came down off the ramparts, Richard asked about the shop where I purchased my shofar. So we decided to take them there. Off we went on a shopping adventure. Richard was looking for a shofar, but Judith needed some gifts for her seminary students. The shop I had used was closed, so we wandered further down the Via Dolorosa.
The Harwards were also out shopping; Nancy was looking for a black concert dress, and we followed them for a bit. I found a shop with some shofars hanging by string in the entrance to the shop. The owners were anxious for us to come shop, which should have warned us! Richard didn't seem to like what he saw, but Judith tried to find some Old Testament-type gifts. They weren't having much luck but then found some mezuzahs.
I could tell that the owner and Judith we talking about different things; there were 4 mezuzahs in the box and Judith thought they were 35 shekels for the box. But the owner was talking about them individually and the selling the box for 150 shekels! When they realized the difference that made them all upset. Of course when Richard pointed out the dust on the boxes, the owner said 'Holy Dust'.
They had to walk out three times before the price came down to $32 for the three boxes. What an adventure. While we waited, I purchased a 32 gig SD card $15 for our camera. We had taken 350 pictures and run out of room. It turned out I just had a 2 gig SD card in.
We walked on further and came to a nice shop that had some pretty headbands that Eve would love (according to Lynn). The owner started at $10! Lynn eventually got it down to $2. She then asked which one (there was a purple and a pink color). The owner said $2 for the one and 3 for the other. Lynn laughed and negotiated $3 total for both. I have found that whatever price they start at, an appropriate ending point is at least 25% of that.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped off at the shop to get a six-pack of large water bottles.
(Continue to Israel)