12 - Completion

Nearing the final fitting stage, it was important to have the 2 lining layers become one garment if accurate guidelines for the main dress hemline were to be made. However, before this took place, several ‘special finishings’ were completed before the interlining & lining were sewn together as they were specific to each layer.

Images left show the individual linings after special finishings were completed:

left - satin lining with nets attached & loops stitched
right - interlining with boned bodice attached & tacked to the satin lining

Joining the under garment linings

After tacking the 2 linings together (ie. interlining & satin lining), they were aligned at main vertical seamlines (image above shows upper back sections - interlining towards left & lining towards right) ...

... then pinned together along the main seam lines ONLY IN THE SEAM ALLOWANCES ( see images above & below left) ...

pinned along seamlines

... They were then loosely tack together along their upper & midway sections (image above):

Bar-tacks at hipline

After this was completed, the 2 under garments were machine stitched together at armholes & neckline (in the seam allowances & not catching in the canvas). Next & through all layers, small ‘arrow shaped’ bar-tacks were stitched at the base of the central stiffened bodice sections (images below):

Joining the main dress & binding the neck & armholes

Before this next stage, the satin lining back opening was machine stitched to the hook & eye fastening on the interlining.

Following this, the individual dress layers (ie. main upper dress & linings) were tacked together around the neck & armholes to hold the 2 sections together. They were then neatened with a narrow satin bias binding, stitching the outer edge only to the lining sections (see left).

The main work of the dress was now almost finished & only needed hand-tacking of the individual net layers to ensure they remained in place when the dress was worn.

Tacking with overlocking thread

I often use the overlocked chain thread (see below) for stitching purposes - here it is to be used as a 'tacking' cord for holding together different parts of the dress. Make a length of chain with the overlocker & using a large eye needle, stitch with it as if ordinary sewing thread.

Here, the bodice sections are held together around the hipline seam (image above) where at the tulle join on the interlining, a chain cord is used to 'tack' it to the main dress seam above it.

Also, this 'overloicked tacking thread' was used to hold in place the different layers of net although not every layer in the same place. Although only a minimum number of these tacking cords were used, generally the underneath layers were tacked nearer their upper edges - the tulle layers nearer the hemlines. Images below show the 'tacking threads' being used to hold the cream tulle to the hem edge (grey thread was used as white was much too visible).

Ruching tulle skirt

The tulle skirt was randomly 'scrunched' up to create uneven 'peaks & troughs' - these allow the skirt to 'trail' as designed. Completed on the hanger (quite randomly although in specific positions), small segments of the upper tulle were 'scrunched up' then stitched in place to the under layer (see below) using a few tiny hand stitches.

The dress was finally finished & delivered to the bride-to-be on time & the week before the wedding - here it is finally being worn on the day.

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