08 - Interlining with boned bodice

At the previous fitting of the demi-toile, it had been decided to make a boned bodice & specific details for this can be found if you click this link Stitchery-doing. Here I will just briefly mention its making in the context of its shape & use within the interlining. The most important aspect of any stiffened or boned bodice is to remember what it’s job is & how it works. It is designed to fit somewhat like a second skin, is comfortable to wear with any outer covering remaining smooth & snug over the top of it.

However, at its first fitting when worn over the boned bodice, its use was revised. The latter garment was a perfect fit & provided exactly the desired silhouette shape K wanted for her dress. With a stiffened bodice underneath being firmer & having no stretch, the demi-toile worn now only required slight 'tweaking' (for minor waistline shaping) for it to become an interlining with the original satin used separately inside the boned bodice.

Additionally, with the lower skirt section of the demi-toile being suitable as a ‘base’ for some net &/or tulle layers added to it & as an interlining (separate from either the main dress or its lining), it would ensure independent net layer movements could be maintained during wear & when the dress was complete. With the volume & weight of the nets likely to be substantial, 2 lining layers under the main dress could possibly have the net quantity split between them – again to assist individual movement of the nets.

Reaching a stage where the overall weight of the dress was starting to be realised by K when worn, I began to consider having the main dress section as a separate layer over the remainder of the dress with no net attached to it. In this way, should the dress become uncomfortable for K to wear for her evening function, it would be an easy option for her to remove the under-layer(s) & wear this upper layer dress minus lower net fullness. As the layers were initially being made up separately, this option was entirely viable. Also, while stitching the canvas & boning, I was concerned these stitching lines may visibly show through the main dress unless that too was lined but at a later fitting, K had a comfort preference for the boned bodice to be worn over the next-to-skin satin lining.