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The linings for the dress consisted of 2 layers: the satin lining & the underlining; both of them used as 'support layers' for the subsequent layers above them. Primarily the satin lining (worn next to the skin) would take the main foundation layers of the dress with the interlining having the main tulle & possibly some nylon netting underneath. In this way, fittings could continue without nets being attached (ie. pinned & not stitched) & when all lengths were finalised, they could easily be stitched on last. Also, by having 2 distinct linings with different net types, independent movement of each 'petticoat' would be guaranteed & better for K to walk in & lift up when necessary.
Satin Lining
Satin Lining
An inner lining for the dress was made in the stretch satin – as support for the foundation layers of the nylon net & with the same overall basic shape as the original demi-toile, it was stitched together for a first fitting to obtain an optimum finished 'walking length'. K’s shoes were exceedingly high & without a heel, had potential to be somewhat dangerous if any net layers or linings were caught. For this reason, the satin lining was to be made noticeably shorter than any subsequent outer net layers & these too were to be shorter than those on the interlining layer. This would also assist in the top layer of tulle appearing to 'trail & drag' over the ground.
As all other seams, these were clipped & overlocked (below left) - irregular clipping ensured these seams did not roll as you can see from when they are hanging up (left):
At the fitting, the satin lining was marked with accurate positioning of the 'foundation' layers of nets - 4 'lines' being marked horizontally on the lining. Considering the volume of net that was likely to be used & subsequent layers of stitching may prove to be somewhat difficult (& likely have a tendency to rip while being stitched), these 'lines' were re-inforced using selvedge-edge strips cut from the tulle edging (image left: close-up of re-inforced strip & at right: 2 rows stitched at intervals) .
(As guidelines, these 4 individual rows for stitching the gathered net layers became an essential 'sewing aid' both for fittings & ultimately for precise placement of the nets.)
However, before the nets were attached, it was vital that the satin lining hem was finished first as it's a lot easier to stitch without the net being in the way. The dress had been designed for its net layers to 'trail & drape' onto the ground - in reality this was really only suitable for the uppermost tulle layer. As the under nets support the layers above, the innermost lining must easily clear the bride's shoes - allowing her to walk & move without the net getting in the way of her feet. To assist with this, a strip of bias netting (far left) was first stitched to the edge of the finished hemline - ie. above the hem edge on the dress section & not on the hem allowance. The edge of the hem was then machine-stitched & eased into place (left). After folding the hem over the net, it too is machined into position.
Using the satin's natural stretch quality as the hem edge is machine-stitched, the already curving hemline is further slightly stretched some more to create a subtle edging 'flare' along the hem. This reinforced edge ensures it 'splays' outwards at all times, preventing it from being caught in K's footwear.
Right shows the completed satin lining with all nets stitched in place.
Interlining
Interlining
The revision of the demi-toile for use as an interlining meant that the boned section could be finished & as this revised garment, marked & prepared ready for the net layers to be added. However, at a fitting where the side seams were tacked together with the boned bodice included, it was decided to leave the bodice attached in this way:
- should any changes in body measurements occur, alterations could be made through the side seams
- any movement of the boned bodice was prevented
At the next fitting (worn with the satin lining completed but nets pinned), it was decided to have only the upper tulle layer added to the interlining. As a ‘petticoat’ layer with the tulle (see right), the linings 'moved' better & K found them more easily manageable in wear. Additionally, it was essential to have only a minimal amount of bulk at the hipline seam as the shape of the dress was found to drastically alter.
Joining together
Joining together
When the main dress layer was ready for its first fitting, the 2 linings were tacked together & then after the fitting, the ‘middle torso section' was partially stitched to the satin lining to points around the hipline & later ultimately stitched to the upper parts of the main dress layer.
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