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Like the previous 'initial toile', this garment is multi-functional too - it will be fitted & marked up, then re-used & adapted – possibly to be used as part of the dress interlining. Used as a full-length 'sample', it will obtaining general guidelines for finished lengths PLUS determine silhouette shapings for the main dress overlayer, possible interlining & inner lining. Initially cut in poly-cotton, it will be sleeveless & have slightly shaped & flared skirt panels (similar to those as per McCalls pattern but less full). As a sample dress, it is also providing K (the bride-to-be) with a more visual dress shape & for me (at fitting stages), determine if any further adaptations to style/design are necessary plus confirming how the dress will finally be assembled. As this bride’s body measurements are likely to reduce further, I can ensure this garment’s size remains ‘current’ at subsequent fittings & can monitor where (if any) her shape changes. This is vitally important since as much as possible needs to be completed early-on, leaving only minor changes or finishings until last.
At the first fitting (stage 1), it will be marked with the approximate finished hemline, overall lower shape & circumference for the finished dress – thus enabling main fabric pieces to be cut. After its second fitting (stage 2), the demi-toile will be transformed to an 'interlining' for the final dress, where it will be used as the support layer for a stiffened/boned bodice & ultimately provide the foundation for stitching on the longer & more visible net layers.
Stage 1
Stage 1
The first stage in its making, was to produce a definitive pattern using the revised initial toile pieces & overlaying them on to the McCalls pattern to obtain the lower torso sections. (I personally find this a much easier method of 'marking up' which may be connected to how I visualise & design.) The result of this is that in place of the original total of 6 panels, there are now 8: centre back, side back, centre front, side front (4 at both back & front). These will provide better adjustment & fitting seamlines over the middle & lower torso sections. In turn, these can be more accurately fitted leaving the side seams for any minor adjustments (if necessary) later on.
The 8 pattern shapes were cut out in the polycotton & stitched together for a first fitting to confirm final postions for seamlines. As only minor waistline alterations were found to be necessary, various guideline lengths & circumferences could be marked together with a guide for the upper corsetry (several of these positions being aligned with K’s natural body shaping & curves).
(Unfortunately I forgot to photograph the demi-toile so am unable to show it here - however, it is just a simple princess-style floor-length dress.)
Stage 2
From the guidelines created in stage 1, a torso pattern was made – these pieces extending from the shoulder to appx. 3.5"/9cm below the waist.
The lower edge curves from the side & dips slightly at front & back – this section helping provide support over the lower torso as well as maintaining a smooth body outline for the outer dress. These revised shapes were drawn directly onto the woven canvas & then cut out without seam allowances - like a pattern shape, they will be used repeatedly (drawn around in chalk) for next marking out the dress & lining sections.
The canvas pattern shapes were next marked on the cotton lawn, cut out with generous seam allowances added & a stiffened bodice made up (see next section ‘boned bodice’). Initially this was to be a separate garment loosely stitched to the lining but after a subsequent fitting with the 'demi-toile sample’ worn over it, it was decided to integrate it into this garment to form an interlining & support the dress & varied net layers.
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