02 - K's design criteria

For K, further intended weight loss, fabric limitations & an integral corset would effect main design criteria. As she is of ‘petite’ build (ie. under 5’ tall) & generally (typically English) ‘pear-shaped’, certain proportional body measurements are unique to her … especially since she had lost considerable weight which could continue during the coming months. However, I discovered that there had been a greater decrease in measurement from her upper torso than her lower half & estimated any further changes may only occur in this latter area.

Informing me she had already purchased her shoes meant I could obtain basic proportional height measurements early – the shoe styling greatly assisting in planning these proportions. Unfortunately, fitted underwear was at this stage, undecided & as certain parts of the dress were still to be finalised & could alter, only very basic measurements were subsequently taken. These are ones I’ve adapted over many years to suit my personal way of working. As I’ve always had a tendency to visualise ‘photographically or in 3D’, this ‘useful’ technique (when making garments) means that some ‘text-book’ measurements become unnecessary for me!

The agreed dress design was to be very fitted from shoulder to upper thigh level, have an integral corset (maybe attached) & for the lower skirt, have considerable net somewhere below the fitted part of the dress. With the dress being sleeveless & having a generally low neckline (also to be finalised), the upper dress bodice would become the ‘weight-bearer’ for all fabric. For this reason, any form of ‘corset-style’ under-garment should be purchased or made as soon as possible to then enable the dress to begin being made. For K herself, neck & armhole shapings would be better visualized with corsetry in place & then at a subsequent fitting, a final dress silhouette with specific seamlines could be obtained from it – an extremely important aspect regarding proportions for this dress.

With this in mind, a basic toile was started while K investigated the possibilities of purchasing corsetry. However it wasn’t very long before the option to make the corsetry became a reality although she was unsure whether it would be a separate part of the dress.