11 - Net layers

Several layers of net were necessary for this dress - their proportions & overall 'look' being a crucial part of the finished design. I found that safety pins were ideal for pinning these layers into position - both at fitting stages & marking final placements for stitching. Even nearing completion when finished sizes were known but final tulle layers could not be stitched, the safety pins became a highly recommeded temporary fixing method for fittings. Further, in the event of any minor dress adjustment being necessary, it would be easier to make with the quick safety pin removal of the net layers.

Initially, short lengths of gathered 'sample' net sections were made up & pinned directly into positions on each layer as needed at the appropriate fitting stages. The first were ones used on the interlining to obtain general skirt circumference measurements & another 2 for use on the satin lining to gain the basic 'silhouette' shape of the underneath section. (These lengths were finally included into completed net sections so were not wasted.) Subsequent layers were cut to size after fittings, gathered into a general shape, ready to pin into position at the next fitting.

Both nylon & tulle nets were used for this dress with the nylon layers used primarily as stiffenings & support for the the tulle layers - generally, different widths & individual layers of nylon net supporting & enhancing the next layer above. All layers were ultimately 'tacked together' to ensure they remained in position when the dress was worn & that the toile netting remained "in place". This latter decision was taken while the tulle netting was being worked on - it had a tendency to 'fluff & ride up' & remain in this position rather than fall back into place!

Although the total number of net layers needed were initially unknown, from the onset it was clear that the tulle would need a stiff & well-shaped under section which could only be used near the upper part of the skirt. As the main dress was defined early-on as possibly being a separate garment over the nets, all net had to be attached to the linings. As the revised lining uses became apparent during subsequent fittings, so did the positioning of the nets - finally resulting in a total of 5 different & specific layers as detailed below.

The net support guidelines (stitched on the satin at a previous stage) became more invaluable as each layer was added - they were easy to see & added additional stitching-support to the gathered net. Also, the use of small safety pins rather than dressmaking pins became a better option for the net placements - they held better & did not drop out like the pins did! Any seams needed to join the nylon net together were cut on the bias & stitched separately especially as there was a tendency for this stitching to show through the layers above.

2 x Black nylon net layers - at base of satin lining

Both of these net layers were cut straight & double thickness (ie. 2 layers) - automatically gathered on the sewing machine (appx. double the circumference needed). They were stitched down flat onto the satin & zig-zagged over the seam to hold it flat. Although in the images above the net looks much longer then the lining, in reality it wasn't. In use, when the net was 'fluffed' up, it did not hang down but 'stuck out' over the under, narrower layer.

1 x Off-white nylon net layer + 1 x champagne tulle layer - appx. thigh level of satin lining

1 x Black nylon net layer - upper thigh level of satin lining

Originally a light grey coloured net had also been purchased as an option to “knock back” the intenseness of the cream/white net layers as well as adding further interest at the hemline. At a fitting before the cream net was finally positioned, it was deemed unnecessary but more importantly, made the nets appear “grubby”.

1 x Black tulle layer - appx. hip level on interlining

The 5th & final net layer was the black tulle - the highlight & main feature of the dress with its supporting underlayers clearly defining its final shape. However, until the underlayers had been nearly finished, this last layer could not be cut out or even started since finished length & circumference were initially unknown. Further, the weight of the upper dress would also effect the volume of this tulle layer & it too was unknown. As the net 'foundation' layers were completed, this final tulle sizings could be obtained.