05 - K's schedule

In the case of this specific dress, after each toile fitting the schedule was revised as a result of the 'multi-functional' options I had chosen to include (ie. the toiles as detailed below). Although perhaps not a method to ideally recommend, I personally enjoyed all the challenges it presented & would have no hesitation in using it again.

Below is the final revised outline schedule together with the number of fittings that took place. In reality, both interlining & lining were usually fitted together & the tulle layers were only stitched together at the final stages:

1. Toiles:

• make & fit an initial bodice toile to determine upper shapings, verify dress assembly & its construction
• refit initial toile to create a demi-toile & confirm corsetry requirements
• make & fit the demi-toile to determine torso shaping, assembly & construction for corset & lining layers

2. Corset & interlining:

• make & fit stiffened bodice-corset, cutting main dress & lining from final shape
• alter demi-toile to become interlining to determine placement, shaping & construction of net layers
• cut & prepare sample net layers for fittings
• cut all net & tulle layers to maximum size
  • add boning to stiffened-corset for fitting, then complete & stitch to interlining

3. Lining & nets:

• make up all net & tulle layers for placement on both lining & interlining
• determine final net lengths & confirm colours to be used
• make & fit lining to determine position of foundation & support net layers
• with stiffened interlining, determine positioning of additional net layers & general shaping of main dress
• complete partial 'finishing touches'

4. Complete dress:

• make & fit main dress to determine final shaping
• assemble underlayers & determine volume of interlining nets (ie. main tulle & nets)
• complete lining & interlining net layers then stitch/tack together
• final fitting to verify hemline finishes for main dress & main tulle layer
• complete further 'finishing touches'
• stitch dress & net layers together at neck & armholes & bind edges
• tack tulle/net layers together & tack asymetrical hem trim on main dress

Timings

Making the pattern & toiles together with preparation of cutting the different sections took approximately a quarter of the time it took to actually sew the nets & dress linings. In fact these 2 sections were the most labour-intensive parts of the dress & generally took the same amount of time. In total, there were 8 fittings:

1. Initial toile to confirm upper bodice size & shape
2. Demi-toile to confirm torso fit & shaping for boned corset
3. Demi-toile with boned bodice to mark skirt shapings/sizes; verify cut of lining & upper dress layer; verification of net lengths
4. Boned bodice for final fit stitched to demi-toile as interlining; initial sample net sizes
5. Interlining with satin lining for final bodice fit & foundation net positions; final neckline & armhole shapings
6. Interlining for final net layer positions; satin lining for fullness of cream layers; sample black tulle fullness
7. Linings stitched together with all nets in place; main dress to verify sizing & guide for hemline shaping; verify skirt movements
8. Dress stitched to linings to confirm final fit, finalise hemline trim & main tulle 'scrunching' positions