Is the inside of the printer clear of debris? CAREFULLY remove the large pieces by hand and bring your printer to the front of the room to vacuum it.
Please open both the front and back doors to inspect the printer properly.
The cache (pronounced KASH) is temporary memory that stores print settings and 3D models. This can sometimes lead to errors. We need to clean this.
In this step we will wipe away all the settings and presets that are in the printer. This will reset everything including...
Material Temperature Presets
Material Usage Statistics
9 Point bed leveling
Build Plate Type
Place an empty roll of filament on the scale
Use the "TEAR" button to zero the scale
Place your partially used roll on the scale
Record the number of GRAMS of filament to be used later in the next step
In this step we will tell the CAM software what material and hardware we will be using.
Set the....
Print Board = Perf Board (We will be using the perforated board from now on)
Type = PLA (We only use PLA plastic in this class)
Weight = Set the weight to the recorded number of grams from the last step
This printer has a detachable printer cartridge...
...this houses the fan, nozzle, heatsink, heater, thermocouple, and motor that feeds the filament.
Please bring your printer to the front of the room for this step.
Adjust the cooling fan to HALF OPEN.
Cooling is one of the most important aspects of printing with PLA. Having a dedicated part cooling fan makes a huge difference in the quality of the printed parts. The freshly extruded plastic needs to cool down below the glass transition temperature as quickly as possible.
Extrude the filament WITH OUT the nozzle. This will confirm there is not a blockage in the heatsink and that the motors are functioning correctly.
Use the socket tool to install the nozzle. Use the tool as shown (this will prevent over tightening).
The nozzle should be tightened as much as shown in the picture.
The extruded material should come out STRAIGHT.
If the material pushes out at an angle, this means the nozzle is partially BLOCKED. You will need a new nozzle.
Install the PERFORATED build plate.
THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT
The 3D printer is blind. We must ask it to measure the distance from the nozzle to the print bed to make sure the first layer of plastic STICKS.
This extra plastic on the nozzle is BAD. We must remove it before taking the MEASUREMENT (calibration).
WIRE BRUSH is used to clean the nozzle.
INITIALIZE the printer!
Initializing the printer resets the motors! We need to initialize the printer EVERY TIME we change the build plate or nozzle.
Select the MANUAL print bed calibration option.
The nozzle will now move to the back left corner.
Use the calibration card to calibrate the gap between the nozzle and print bed.
*Note. The printer will move 1mm at first then in .2mm increments
The "Feeler" is the piece of thick paper used between the build plate and the nozzle.
Nozzle is TOO FAR from the print bed.
In the image, the print bed and nozzle are too far and the print bed THERE IS NO DRAG when the card is inserted!
Nozzle is JUST RIGHT from the print bed.
In the image, the print bed and nozzle are just right and there is DRAG when the card is inserted!
Nozzle is TOO CLOSE to the print bed.
In the image, the print bed and nozzle are too close and the PRINT BED IS FLEXING UP AND DOWN when the card is inserted!
Set your cube to be 1mm tall, 80mm long, and, 80mm wide.
We are printing this shape to confirm our print bed is flat and at the correct height.
Print with a raft
We will WATCH THE FIRST LAYER!!!
Look at the examples below to identify if your build plate is TOO HIGH or TOO LOW.
Examine your raft layer.
CANCEL THE PRINT AFTER THE RAFT IS COMPLETE!
Adjust your nozzle offset by + .2mm or - .2mm where appropriate
You will have to STOP the print after the raft is complete!
You may need to repeat this step several times.
Remember we need to see a FLAT TUBE!
When you are completely finished, please leave the finished 1st layer raft (should be a FLAT TUBE) in the printer.