長庚科技大學-化妝品應用系計畫主持人:陳姿吟 老師共同主持人:許孟娟 老師協同主持人:史昀平老師計畫專任助理:陳亮彤
33303 桃園市龜山區文化一路261號
TEL:(03)211-8999 分機5952
E-Mail:ltchen@ mail.cgust.edu.tw

「粉飾」社會視角的「形象」歧視

「美麗溢價」已成為人際互動第一印象的衡量指標,亦道盡容貌外表的普世價值,然而形體容貌的損害雖然對生命威脅不如重要器官那麼嚴重和直接,卻讓容貌外觀缺損者坐困愁城,猶如陷入流沙中無法掙脫的絕望,伴隨而來的心理障礙遠超過其他部位的傷害,無論是先天或後天所造成的顏面、肢體形象缺損皆令人難以承受。

長庚科技大學化妝品應用系首創國內「遮瑕修容實務」課程,聚焦顏面缺損者皮膚色差、瘢痕增生與攣縮等皮膚美化的實務知能,帶領學生參與陽光基金會遮瑕修飾化妝公益服務長達12年,利用化妝品修飾改善顏面損傷者的瘢痕色差與五官對稱平衡等問題。在服務過程中常看見經歷意外災害者被截肢、肢體攣縮造成行動不便,對於臉部彩妝眼、唇、眉需細微描繪的化妝動作無法隨心所欲的完成,所以引進韓國半永久紋繡化妝技術,開設「顱顏塑型定妝實務」課程,培育學生針對瘢痕、五官微皮上色的技能,嫁接皮膚科與整型科醫生規劃醫療刺青等專業知識融入課程,並與熱心公益參與計畫的醫療團隊結盟,作為紋繡導致的皮膚問題,提供傷友諮詢及醫療後續的後盾。

再者,我們又觀察到有一群肢體被截肢的傷友,殘缺的肢體長年裸露在外,傷友希望擁有長得跟自己原有的手一樣的贋復假體可裝飾,但事與願違如同在沙漠前行,無邊無際的尋找與等待仍一籌莫展,深入了解後,得知每個人缺損部位、膚色差異與瘢痕增生等現象,極具個別差異性,因為小眾市場毫無商業利潤可言,國內沒有廠商願意客製化製作贋復假體,都是取殘肢模型寄到國外訂製,除了製作費用高、假體膚色與自己膚色不同、假體型態無法與自己原來的手對稱,後續裝戴維修等問題無法立即妥適改善,查證國內文獻與贋復假體產業情況,其因應對策付之闕如,因此結合本系既有「特效化妝」課程,強化學生雕塑、翻模等技術試圖翻轉長期被漠視仿真贋復假體製作方法。

容貌外觀的不同,常要面對異樣的眼光或無端的鄙視,這些不愉快的經歷令人倍感壓力與難堪,易造成形體容貌缺損者的心理障礙。看見弱勢族群的需求與困境,本計畫聚焦顏面、肢體形象缺損者施以形象重建,讓他們獲得更多的心理支持,持續鏈結「遮瑕修容實務」課程,積極推動顏損者皮膚美化的實務知能,整合「特效化妝」課程延伸仿真客製化美觀假體的製作與研發,培養學生內化實作能力,營造平等、包容的風氣,減少社會視角的形象歧視,提升良好健康與福祉

目前長庚科技大學建置「形象重建基地」,承接陽光基金會臺北重建中心形象重建業務外,已開發出各式缺損指套、義耳與義鼻等仿真贋復假體,並於今年6月通過IRB審查,亦嫁接醫療體系,制定客製化仿真指套的工法與裝戴流程,期待從傷友真實的回饋中,解決贋復假體無法達到逼真客製化的困境,並將日後的研究成果無償技術轉移給陽光基金會,讓顏面缺陷者能在地落實形象重建的具體實踐,鼓勵學生利用專業所學盡一份力量,營造臉部平權的友善社會。

Makeup for Reducing Social Image Discrimination

“Beauty premium”, as an index to measure the first impression in social interaction, reflects the value of appearance. Appearance defects, though not life threatening as vital organ damage, make people suffering them walled in by their own worries, like being trapped in quicksand and unable to get rid of it, and the psychological depression that comes along with them is far more serious than damage to other parts. So appearance defects and extremity deficiency, congenital or acquired, are unbearable.

Department of Cosmetic Science, Chang Gung University of Science and Technology first initiates the Concealer Modification Practice course in Taiwan to offer practical skin beautification knowledge and skills on modifying facial color difference and improving scar hyperplasia and contracture in people with facial defects. Our students, who have been joining the Sunshine Social Welfare Foundation program and providing non-profit concealer modification services to the public for 12 years and using cosmetics to modify facial color difference due to scars and improve facial symmetry in people with facial defects, often see amputated accident victims who are suffering mobility problems due to extremity contracture and cannot do fine eye, lip and eyebrow makeups as they wish. So the department introduces half-permanent tattoo makeup technology from South Korea and offers the Craniofacial Modeling and Makeup Practice course to develop students’ ability to color scars and facial features. The course integrates professional medical tattoo knowledge from dermatology and plastic surgery doctors and cooperates with non-profit medical teams to provide consultation and medical support for people suffering from skin problems with medical tattoo technology.

We also find a group of amputated people who have had their defective extremities exposed for years and wish to have original-looking prostheses, however such wishes are gloomy. After further investigation, we learn that these people have defects on different sites, as well as different skin color differences and scar hyperplasia, which vary greatly between individuals, and no manufacturer in Taiwan is willing to provide customized prostheses due to the non-profitable market of such a small crowd. These people send the models of their defective extremities abroad for customized prostheses, which is not only expensive but also results in failure to receive timely solutions to unfitting problems due to skin color difference and morphological difference between the prostheses and the users, as well as wearing and maintenance problems. There lack solutions to such problems as inquired references and prosthesis manufacturing information in Taiwan, so our department, with our existing Prosthetic Makeup course, initiates the program to improve students’ skills in sculpturing and modeling, attempting to enhance the long-ignored artificial prosthesis manufacturing.

Appearance differences often make people encounter unpleasantly strange eyes and gratuitous disdain, imposing stress and embarrassment on them and easily causing psychological disorders in them. Given the demand and dilemma of this vulnerable group, the department initiates the program to rebuild the image for people with facial and extremity defects to help them gain confidence. It integrates the Concealer Modification Practice course to actively enhance students’ skills and knowledge on beautifying the skin of people with facial defects, and also integrates the Prosthetic Makeup course to further explore the manufacturing and development of artistic artificial and customized prostheses, so as to develop students’ ability to internalize practice, create a social climate of equality and inclusion, reduce social image discrimination and promote good health and well-being.

So far, Chang Gung University of Science and Technology has established the Image Rebuilding Base to undertake image rebuilding businesses from Sunshine Social Welfare Foundation Taipei Rehabilitation Center, and has developed a variety of artificial prostheses such as fingerstalls for missing fingers, artificial ears and artificial noses, which have been approved by IRB in June this year. It also engages the medical system to develop processes to manufacture and wear customized artificial fingerstalls, so as to seek solutions to the failure of prostheses to be accurately customized from true feedback from users. The university intends to transfer its future development results and technologies to Sunshine Social Welfare Foundation for free to allow such results and technologies to be applied to the practice of image rebuilding for people with facial defects and encourage students to make use of their professional knowledge to build a friendly society with image equality.

議題 First Lssue

走過幽谷看見曙光 - 形象重建

Dawn down the valley – Image rebuilding

本計畫主軸發展整體形象重建公益服務、仿真贋復假體研發與改良。

The program focuses on offering non-profit image rebuilding services, and developing and improving artificial prostheses.

議題Second Lssue

化身彩繪天使點播契機 - 人才培育

Spread beautification seeds – Talent training

培養具備形象重建實務知能的專業人才。

The program focuses on training professional talents with image rebuilding knowledge and skills.

議題Third Lssue

打開心讓愛住進來 - 形象平權

Let love in – Image equality

主張每個人都應該被尊重及公平地對待,唯有讓形象缺損者從「心」接納自己,才能翻轉社會價值。

The program holds that everyone should be treated with respect and fairness, and that people with image defects can prove their social value only if they love themselves from the heart.

議題四 Fourth Lssue

讓愛起飛 - 公益服務

Let love spread – Public service

鏈結所學專業,務實致用落實公益服務,並將研發成果技術轉移社福團體,嘉惠弱勢族群。

The program offers practical public service with the support of its professionalism, and applies its R&D results to social groups to benefit the vulnerable group.

顏損傷友芳療紓壓公益服務

韓國半永久紋繡定妝術培訓

眉型紋繡培訓

仿真義指專題製作

顏損傷友遮瑕修飾化妝教學

仿真指套專題製作過程