Neptune Top slosher late model clutch woes
The following info was passed along to me by a fellow named Rich. I thought it was an important piece of info so thank you Rich.
Good morning JWW,
I don’t think I’m hijacking the thread I have all ready given a heads up to gkofc on future issues with the machine that I feel are easy repairs once armed with some knowledge. I started working on the machine last December when I took my first dC/uC unbalance errors at the 3.5yr mark of ownership. gkofc and others can use this process for his upcoming clutch malfunction. I now use my bike lift for the process but can you just lay the machine down or tilted back to improve the reach angle.
To drop the clutch out for maintenance/replacement I’m going to post the process I have put together for other forums. It’s a bit more detailed then what you need it’s geared to the DIY’er like me.
You can pull the SM from servicematters.com I’m sure you are familiar with the site but here is the link to the PDF.
The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Service Manual for reference. The direct URL http://servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022808.pdf just in case my hyperlink fails to paste into this forum correctly. At servicematters they have some technical bulletins about a new and improved clutch. They make no comment about what the design changes are to make it improved, I recommend this clutch for these machines. p/n 25001169 just Google or I believe this site carries it.
Here is my DIY step by step. Make sure on reinstall of the clutch that it seats properly.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point and page 41.
Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual
1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease. Some machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings and lock up in the CCW direction. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
I have pic’s with this process but will paste in if anyone feels it would be of value. Helping the wife for turkey and trimmings prep so keeping it short.
The big test is to determine if the One-Way Roller Clutchs are locking up in the CCW direction when they don’t you will get tumbler movement while the wash basket begins to spin up and if the TDS is working properly the machine will shut down.
Insert what I call the Spinner Shaft Coupler (not sure if that is what it is called) into the One-Way Roller clutch plate like I show.
Then holding Spinner Shaft Coupler ends tightly with your fingers take the other free hand and rotate the white bearing plate CCW the Spin Cycle direction. The white bearing plate should not rotate in the CCW direction the One-Way Roller clutches should lock up solid. When those One-Roller clutches do not lock up solid you get tumbler movement and big time dC/uC errors. Now rotate the white bearing plate CW it should rotate freely around the coupler this is the agitator wash cycle direction and the agitator shaft would drive the tranny driving the tumblers.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and all on the forum....Rich
