Self-Rescue

Field trip scope and sequence:

Skills are taught and assessed using a drill. The drill starts with the leader lowering the victim to the base then belaying the follower from a top belay directly off the anchor in guide mode. Students work in teams of 3 (or 4) rotating through each of three roles: rescuer, victim, observer(s). Each station is managed by an instructor.

Rescue drill:

1. Rescuer lowers “victim” to the base using a redirected plate lower

2. “Victim” lower is converted to a belay off the anchor in guide mode

3. “Victim” climbs halfway up the pitch and stops (simulating difficulty ascending)

4. Rescuer releases the loaded device and then lowers the “victim” a few feet usimg a Load Strand Direct (LSD)

5. (“Victim” simulates an inability to climb any further)

6. Rescuer assists the “victim” with a drop-loop raise and raises them to within 10-15 ft of the top of the cliff

7. Rescuer converts the drop-loop raise to a 3:1, raises the victim a few feet

8. Rescuer converts the 3:1 system to a 7:1 system and raises the “victim” a few more feet

9. (Simulated rock fall injures the “victim”)

10. Rescuer escapes the belay, retrieves their device, descends on rappel to “assess” the “victim”

11. Rescuer ascends the rope back to the belay

12. Rescuer performs a counterbalance rappel to the “victim”

13. Rescuer descends to the base with the victim on a counterbalance rappel

Material and references:

Belay off the anchor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6gr5cuQGZE 

Harness belay: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8pCkdh5hRGg&feature=youtu.be 

LOWERING (also see: Fasulo, 2011, pp. 94-101): 

Load strand direct (LSD) (used to release the device for a quick, unplanned short lower) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1lspII24QU  

See alternative to the LSD: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TT5IMLgCF6Y&t=1s (Method 3, at 2:05) 

Redirected plate (for a longer planned lower) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdD4MbcE1hs 

(Demonstrated for ice climbing but the same technique is used in rock climbing) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx8JP4TRJlM 

Super or Zuper Munter (for lowering heavy loads up to 600 lbs or more. Think victim + attendant) 

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/try-the-super-munter-for-lowering-big-loads 

Two-rope Munter lower with Munter Overhand Follow Through (MOFT) knot pass (emergency 2-pitch lower) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bDkxXwLRBg&list=PLU3KSa2CUwQL-OW4L4qT23edRJvy48btK&index=6 

RAISING (see also Fasulo, 2011, pp. 125-133): 

Vector pull (helpful for a quick assist over a cruxy move) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVoSZuupRaY 

Assisted drop-loop raise (good for a longer raise; requires the follower to be able to pull on a rope strand. Victim needs to be within reach of the dropped loop) 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akoKYFHzDqs&t=122s (See the second half of the video beginning at about 5:53. Video demonstrates the technique using a Gri Gri but it works the same way with a belay device in guide mode). 

3:1 raise from a device in guide mode (effective but strenuous) 

https://vimeo.com/200846829?embedded=true&source=video_title&owner=18761024 

7:1 double mariner raise using a device in guide mode (Considerably less strenuous, but slow. Useful when the 3:1 proves arduous. Easy to piggy-back onto a 3:1 system) 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k_q854QFYbY&feature=youtu.be 

Raise starting from a belay off of the harness. (Used if not belaying the follower directly off of the anchor in guide mode. Requires belay escape, progression to baseline) (see Fasulo, 2011, pp. 168-174) 

RAPPELLING (see also, Fasulo, 2011, pp. 102-119) :  

Tandem rappel with the follower from the top of the pitch 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQdQPae-Hew 

Pre-rigged rescue spider (best for multi-pitch tandem rappel) (See Kirkpatrick, 2020, pp. 320-321; Tyson and Loomis, 2006, pp. 90-92) 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112064545/improved-rescue-spider-with-bowline-on-a-bight 

Counterbalance rappel  

Getting to baseline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DTVGIvQJ0E&t=144s        

Rappel from baseline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1SzhRLHOCI 

ASCENDING THE ROPE (see also Chauvin & Coppolillo, 2017, pp. 225-227)  

Rope ascent using a device in guide mode 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcUmdGIf21o (Relevant section starts at about 3:30) 

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/transformers-your-atc-belay-device-is-also-an-ascender 

Useful Book references: 

Chauvin, M. & Coppolillo, R. (2017). The mountain guide manual: The comprehensive reference—from   

    belaying to rope systems and self rescue. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press.  

Donahue, T. (2016). Advanced rock climbing: Expert skills and techniques. Seattle, Washington: Mountaineers Books 

Fasulo, D. (2011). Self-rescue. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press. 

Gaines, B. & Martin, J.D. (2014). Rock climbing: The AMGA single pitch manual. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press. 

Kirkpatrick, A. (2020, pp. 320-321). Down: The complete descent manual for climbers, alpinists and mountaineers.  

    Ireland: Andrew Kirkpatrick, Ltd. 

Tyson, A. & Loomis, M. (2006). Climbing self-rescue: Improvising solutions for serious situations. Seattle, Washington:   

    Mountaineers Books. 

Nicholson, I (2024, stay tuned). Climbing self rescue: Technical skills, technical tips and improvised solutions. Seattle,  

    Washington: Mountaineers Books. 

    https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/climbing-self-rescue-ian-nicholson/1143105980