Embedded Files
There is natural progression of things and the focus in this clinic is on the kind of skills you need for alpine ice climbs in the cascades, so working up to leading on low-angle alpine ice and progressing to top-roping vertical or steep ice is the goal for this weekend.
Saturday:
Practicing walking in crampons on low-angle ice without rope.
Practicing screw placements, V-threads, and anchor building.
Practicing setting up belay and lead-swapping rope procedure.
Practicing a simple mock leads pitch (without swapping leads).
Practicing full mock leads with lead swap, anchor, and belaying.
Sunday:
The second day we'll practice more mock leads if needed, and/or get into real leads.
http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Report_Hood_Bergschrund.htm#analysis
GEAR:
Each student needs to bring a 60m single-rated rope, minimum 3-4 screws (possibly more, up to 5-6 if you have some for comfort), leaning generally on the longer side (16cm+), with at least one 21cm for V/A-threads, and possibly at least a single shorter one (13cm), and everything else you need for an ice climb and overnight stay, including but not limited to the following:
helmet
glacier glasses
harness (make sure it has ice hook loops)
boots
two ice tools
ice tool lanyard to attach them to your harness (not wrist leashes - we don't use those)
steel crampons with front points (horizontal are fine)
ice screws (for number and length, see above)
picket (One per climber)
caritools (Two is optimal for ice screws)
alpine draws to match all the screws
A V-thread tool and plenty of 6-7mm cordage for A-threads (plan on making at least 3-4 of those, possibly more . About 24" in length)
lockers, nonlockers, extra slings, etc. as needed
belay device (ATC guide or similar)
cordelette
layers, food, essentials, etc. for approach and a full day on the ice
overnight gear (tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, water filter, good, etc.)
Google Sites
Report abuse