Glacier Skills
Technical Skills
Technical Skills
Arrest the fall
Communicate
Place first piece of anchor
Transfer the load
Clip sling to bight knot
Reinforce anchor with second piece
Equalize the two anchors using the block and tackle
Check on fallen climber and devise a rescue plan
Descend to Fallen Climber
Auto-block on strand
Rappel Device oriented with teeth engaged and guide loop closer to climber
Rappel Down to Fallen Climber
Clip the Climber
Tie Catastrophe Knot below autoblock
Clip loop to fallen climber
Reascend Rope
Attach microtraxion or prussik above device and attach foot loop using carabiner
Clip carabiner to guide loop on device
Stand up on foot loop and clip device to belay loop to engage guide mode
Remove autoblock and catastrophe knot
Redirect pull strand through foot loop carabiner (optional)
Stand and Pull
Readjust microtraxion or prusik
Repeat 6 and 7
Execute Remainder of 6:1 system
Strong/Solid: solid enough on their own and can hold a significant fall
Equalized: each piece should share the load equally
Redundant: should be more than one piece in case something fails
Efficient: “Speed is safety”
No Extension: if one piece should blow out, there will not be a shock-loading of the anchor
Sliding X, Girth Hitch, 2 Piece Cordelette, Quad Anchor, Two Piece Snow Anchor
Top clip vertical
Ineffective in anything but hard snow
Mid clip horizontal (deadman, T-slot)
Can be very strong when buried and set properly
Subject to weak layers (consideration given to snowpack history)
Takes time to build properly
Mid clip vertical
As strong as deeply placed (24”) horizontal mid clips
Quick to place
Angle back 10-15 degrees; >15 degrees may cause fluking and bouncing
Should only be made with dyneema slings or cable. Webbing is too wide and compromises the anchor when digging the slot.
Prussik belay (fixed handline), Carabine ice-axe belay (situational), Sitting hip belay (back up w/ quick anchor: placed or buried ice axe), butt-axe belay
Best on moderate slopes as a backup to self arrest: What’s an alternative?
Inappropriate for steep slopes where self arrest is questionable
Requires firm snow to place reliable pickets
Minimum of two pickets between climbers
Pass without unclipping demo
Can be combined with secure belay at top of pitch
Leader belays followers up as they pass and gather pickets
Two pickets mandatory to belay a leader
Place pickets perpendicular to slope with vertical separation (several feet if possible) (note: fall forces change with leading on snow/ice)
Rig with cordelette or slings to achieve “SERENE“
Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, no Extension
Master point:
Belay directly off the anchor for followers: Device or Munter
Belay off the harness for leader
Lowering strategies
Lowering off harness or directly of an anchor (depending on circumstances)
Planned lower from above
Leader goes last and down climbs
Down climb can be belayed if second to last places pickets on the way down
Rappels
Bollards
Rocks
Picket anchor (backed up until leader goes last, sacrifices one piece)
V & A thread (if solid ice can be reached and utilized)
Footwork
Flat Foot for slopes below 45
Hybrid for slopes above 45 degrees
Frontpoint for slopes usually above 70 degrees
Axe Positions
Cane: Best for Ascending
Self -Arrest: Best for going down mountain
Self-Belay: steep snow climbing
Anchor Position: for assistance pulling over something
Dagger Positions (45-70 degree angles)
Low - most helpful for down climbing
Middle - for stiffer snow
High - the most secure
Descending on Snow
Plunge Step: bend knees slightly, spread feet shoulder width, step straight downhill, striking with heel of boot
Shuffle Step: Face perpendicular to slope and step down with downhill then meet. Axe should be uphill and firmly planted and the moved after feet are together
Downclimb: facing in doing the opposite of climbing