CS3 | Self-Rescue

Assisted drop-loop raise (good for a longer raise; requires the follower to be able to pull on a rope strand. Victim needs to be within reach of the dropped loop)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akoKYFHzDqs&t=122s (See the second half of the video beginning at about 5:53. Video demonstrates the technique using a Gri Gri but it works the same way with a belay device in guide mode).

3:1 raise from a device in guide mode (effective but strenuous)

https://vimeo.com/200846829?embedded=true&source=video_title&owner=18761024

7:1 double mariner raise using a device in guide mode (Considerably less strenuous, but slow. Useful when the 3:1 proves arduous. Easy to piggy-back onto a 3:1 system)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k_q854QFYbY&feature=youtu.be

Raise starting from a belay off of the harness. (Used if not belaying the follower directly off of the anchor in guide mode. Requires belay escape, progression to baseline) (see Fasulo, 2011, pp. 168-174)

RAPPELLING (see also, Fasulo, 2011, pp. 102-119) :

Tandem rappel with the follower from the top of the pitch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQdQPae-Hew

Pre-rigged rescue spider (best for multi-pitch tandem rappel) (See Kirkpatrick, 2020, pp. 320-321; Tyson and Loomis, 2006, pp. 90-92)

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112064545/improved-rescue-spider-with-bowline-on-a-bight

Counterbalance rappel

Getting to baseline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DTVGIvQJ0E&t=144s

Rappel from baseline: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1SzhRLHOCI

ASCENDING THE ROPE (see also Chauvin & Coppolillo, 2017, pp. 225-227)

Rope ascent using a device in guide mode

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcUmdGIf21o (Relevant section starts at about 3:30)

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/transformers-your-atc-belay-device-is-also-an-ascender

Useful Book references:

Chauvin, M. & Coppolillo, R. (2017). The mountain guide manual: The comprehensive reference—from

belaying to rope systems and self rescue. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press.

Donahue, T. (2016). Advanced rock climbing: Expert skills and techniques. Seattle, Washington: Mountaineers Books

Fasulo, D. (2011). Self-rescue. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press.

Gaines, B. & Martin, J.D. (2014). Rock climbing: The AMGA single pitch manual. Guilford, Connecticut: Falcon Press.

Kirkpatrick, A. (2020, pp. 320-321). Down: The complete descent manual for climbers, alpinists and mountaineers.

Ireland: Andrew Kirkpatrick, Ltd.

Tyson, A. & Loomis, M. (2006). Climbing self-rescue: Improvising solutions for serious situations. Seattle, Washington:

Mountaineers Books.

Nicholson, I (2024, stay tuned). Climbing self rescue: Technical skills, technical tips and improvised solutions. Seattle,

Washington: Mountaineers Books.

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/climbing-self-rescue-ian-nicholson/1143105980

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