CS 1 | Intro and Gear
Course Intro, Rock Protection systems, Leading Practice
Embedded Files
Classroom Sessions Logistics
Classroom Sessions Logistics
Meeting Time: April 1nd, 6:00pm
Location: Tacoma Clubhouse
Classroom Session 1: KEY POINTS AND MENTOR MOMENT
Key points:
Gear: What kind of gear do we use to protect rock climbs. Impact of amount of gear brought and weight?
Anchors: How do we create safe anchors on rock climbs?
Safety: contributing factors to mountaineering accidents; rock and glacier climbing specific hazards; prevent incidents; do safety check of anchor, yourself, and your partner
“Mentor Moment”
This course is physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. It is designed to provide you with more advanced information and skills to become a competent and safe Intermediate Mountaineer—this course is intended to prepare students to become climb leaders; you are expected to gain the skills to contribute to safety and success as a leader of a climbing team. Standards must exist to ensure the safety of all the participants.
Material Covered:
Material Covered:
Active protection
Passive protection
Gear placement
Terrain anchors
Gear anchors
Bolted anchors
Racking gear
Bealying from above demo
Homework:
Homework:
Prior to this lecture, please review this entire course page and it's content and also read/watch the following reference materials:
Read and review the entire contents of the home page (all of your course information)
Read and review the entire contents of this page
Presentation Materials:
Presentation Materials:
Lecture1 Reading Homework.docxGreat breakdown of what a cam is!
Really awesome video going into depth on how to place a cam.
Fixed (Bolted) Anchors
Fixed (Bolted) Anchors
Quad Anchor (article about a poorly built anchor + AMGA video on how to build a quad)
Removable (Trad) Anchors
Removable (Trad) Anchors
3 Piece Trad Anchor w/ 2 Slings (sliding x with limiting knots)
A twelve point system for evaluating anchor strength.
Natural Anchors
Natural Anchors
This video shows what kind of rock & natural features you can use for protection while climbing. Similarly, you can create anchors around these types of features so long as you assess it's integrity (is it strong, are there any cracks or weaknesses in the rock).
Tree Anchor w/ Basket Hitch (you can create this with cordelette or webbing)
Tree Anchor with Cord (shown below)
A general text with some in depth research on anchors. Loads of details about force loads on anchors! Definitely worth a thorough read.
Tips for rock rope leaders.docxGoogle Sites
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