CS 1 | Intro and Gear
Course Intro, Rock Protection Systems, Belaying
Course Intro, Rock Protection Systems, Belaying
Classroom Session 1
Gear: A full trad rack is not required for CS1, but bring whatever gear you have to practice placements and anchor building.
Key Points:
Gear: What kind of gear do we use to protect rock climbs? Impact of amount of gear brought and weight?
Anchors: How do we create safe anchors on rock climbs?
Belaying: Building a comfortable belay station, belaying from above with a GriGri and a guide ATC.
“Mentor Moment”
This course is physically and mentally demanding. It is designed to provide you with more advanced information and skills to become a competent and safe Intermediate Mountaineer—this course is intended to prepare students to become climb leaders; you are expected to gain the skills to contribute to safety and success as a leader of a climbing team. Standards must exist to ensure the safety of all the participants.
Active protection
Passive protection
Gear placement
Terrain anchors
Gear anchors
Bolted anchors
Racking gear
Belaying from above demo
Prior to this lecture, please review this entire course page and it's content and also read/watch the following reference materials:
Read and review the entire contents of the home page (all of your course information)
Read and review the entire contents of this page
Great breakdown of what a cam is!
Really awesome video going into depth on how to place a cam.
Quad Anchor (article about a poorly built anchor + AMGA video on how to build a quad)
3 Piece Trad Anchor w/ 2 Slings (sliding x with limiting knots)
A twelve point system for evaluating anchor strength.
This video shows what kind of rock & natural features you can use for protection while climbing. Similarly, you can create anchors around these types of features so long as you assess it's integrity (is it strong, are there any cracks or weaknesses in the rock).
Tree Anchor w/ Basket Hitch (you can create this with cordelette or webbing)
Tree Anchor with Cord (shown below)
A general text with some in depth research on anchors. Loads of details about force loads on anchors! Definitely worth a thorough read.