Glacier CS 2

Glacier Classroom Session 2: Trip Planning

1. Trip Plan Components

   1. Safety plan (contact numbers, communication, first aid leader)

   2. Personal data (medical, contact, special issues)

   3. Gear, clothing, tenting, camping, transportation

   4. Route choice (alternative route(s) contingency plan)

   5. Navigation/time/white-out plan/turn around time

   6. Weather watch (begins several days before trip)

   7. Recent trip reports/local beta (rangers, guides)

   8. Pre-climb briefing (gear check, weather, route conditions, role assignments, plan changes)

      1. Everyone have glacier glasses?

   9. On climb monitoring

      1. How are your feet doing? How much water have you drank so far?

   10. Post climb debrief

       1. What went well, and could have gone better? Did we work well as a team?

   11. Trip Plan for Basic Students vs. Intermediate/Private Climbing

2. Navigation Plan and Resources

   1. Map/navigation/time plan: Gaia and CalTopo

      1. Creating route/line, waypoint

      2. Terrain stats/profile

      3. Map layers and overlays

      4. Global imagery

      5. Sentinel imagery

      6. Export/import gpx

      7. Sharing web link

      8. Premium Features/cost

      9. Phone

   2. Trip Reports

   3. NPS Publications

3. Whiteout Navigation Strategies

   1. Bring a route plan, waypoints, altimeter, GPS/knowledge

   2. Active measures

      1. GPS, Hard Copy Map, Refer to Pre-Trip

      2. Moving point to point using defined and predetermined distance

      3. Handrailing using natural border features (cliffs/ridges)

4. Navigation

   1. Construct your plan at home, write it down, leave with emergency POC, discuss pre-trip, modify on the fly within reason

   2. Build a time table by days and checkpoints for your route (pre-trip)

      1. By having this included in your pre-trip there is a written plan and spoken agreement by the team to abide by and respect turn around times and checkpoints to be made

   3. Trip reports and GPS tracks can be helpful but may be outdated, or in error

   4. Vital components

      1. Waypoints: POI, breadcrumbs, launch point, intended destination, potential campsites and alternatives

      2. Elevation at each waypoint

      3. Distance between way points

      4. Time estimate to waypoint (ascent and descent) 

5. Weather

   1. Notes

      1. Forecasting is a prediction, not a certainty

      2. Uncertainty increases with the period of the forecast

      3. True weather forecast is not a single forecast, but an ensemble of probabilities

      4. There are different “weather models” Euro, GFS, NAM

   2. General Forecasts

      1. SpotWX

      2. NWS Point Forecasts (GFS)

      3. NWS Forecast Discussion

      4. Windy.com

      5. Rainier Recreational Forecast

      6. MountainForecast (DON’t use this)

   3. Precipitation

      1. ECMWF (shows cloud, temp, precip, and wind)

   4. Snow Conditions

      1. NWAC: Daily forecasts, telemetry, recent observations

      2. Snotel Sites: snow depth and snow water equivalent compare against typical year

      3. USFS Snow Depth Map: Projected snow depth

      4. SentinelHub: Resolution satellite imagery every few days

6. Snow Caves, Trenches, and Other Improvised Shelters

   1. Snow Caves:

1. Location Selection: Choose a site away from potential avalanche paths and on a slope with a gentle incline. Avoid areas with overhanging snow or unstable terrain.

2. Digging Techniques: Begin by digging a horizontal entrance into the snow. Then, excavate a larger main chamber inside the snowpack.

3. Ventilation: Create a ventilation hole near the top of the cave to prevent condensation and ensure a fresh air supply.

4. Sleeping Platform: Level the floor of the cave to create a comfortable sleeping platform. It's essential to insulate the sleeping area from the cold ground.

2. Trench Shelters:

1. Digging a Trench: Excavate a trench in the snow, considering the length based on the number of occupants. The trench should be deep enough to provide cover from the wind.

2. Sleeping Platforms: Similar to snow caves, level the floor of the trench to create sleeping platforms. These platforms help insulate individuals from the cold snow.

3. Windbreaks: Pile snow along the sides of the trench to create windbreaks and enhance the shelter's protection.

3. Other Improvised Shelters:

1. Tree Well Shelters: In forested areas, use the space around the base of a tree to create a shelter. Clear snow away to expose the ground and provide a more stable surface.

2. Debris Shelters: Utilize available materials such as branches, pine needles, and other debris to construct a makeshift shelter. This can be particularly useful in non-snowy terrain.

4. Tips for Shelter Construction:

1. Avoid Overexertion: Building shelters can be physically demanding. Pace yourself to avoid overexertion and sweating, which can lead to damp clothing and increased heat loss.

2. Group Collaboration: If in a group, work collaboratively to expedite the shelter-building process. Assign specific tasks to individuals to make the most efficient use of time.

3. Emergency Equipment: Keep essential gear, including sleeping bags, insulated pads, and extra clothing, within easy reach inside the shelter for quick access.

4. Regular Maintenance: Periodically check and reinforce the shelter structure. Snow and wind conditions can change, and it's essential to ensure the shelter remains stable.