Glacier CS 2
6:1 crevasse rescue system
Glacier Lecture 2
Crevasse rescue demonstration and ground practice. This evening meeting is devoted in its entirety to managing crevasse accidents. Much of the evening will be spent practicing a crevasse hauling system: The 6:1 Drop Loop System. Study the video. It is strongly recommended that you begin practicing the hauling technique seen in the video on your own or with a buddy before the lecture.
Gear:
Helmet, prusiks, harness, carabiners (non-lockers and lockers)
Couple short and double length slings
Cordelette
Belay device (Guide Mode ATC - BD ATC or Petzl Reverso)
Optional - Micro traxion or Tibloc
Pickets
Ice Axe
Lecture outline
Stopping a serious crevasse fall can be difficult
http://www.climbing.com/videos/self-arrest-practice-falling-into-a-crevasse/
Advantages of the 3:1 and Z x C systems
Well respected methods
Widely known among climbers
Generally effective for crevasse rescue
Limitations of the 3:1 and Z x C systems
Rope entrenchment in the lip (if entrenched you need to dig it out or get a second rope for rescue
Difficulty stopping severe falls (stopper knots cannot be used but might otherwise be helpful)
The 3:1 and Z x C systems are overkill for minor falls
Advantages of the 6:1 drop loop system
Rope entrenchment is a non-issue
Works with or without stopper knots
Can be quickly set-up in minimized form (2:1) for efficient assistance/rescue
Easy to multiply the mechanical advantage of the 2:1 to create a 6:1 system
Works with 2-person teams as well as 3-person teams
Limitations of the 6:1 drop loop system
The system is unfamiliar to most climbers
Requires the climbers to carry sufficient rope in coil
Under some circumstances stopper knots may save your butt.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0qQUuulHGSI
If the knots catch in the lip:
They may help arrest the fall
They may shorten the fall
They may help hold the fall (facilitating anchor set-up)
Stopper knots do, however, have some disadvantages
They don't always work (success depends on (a) type of knot and (b) snow conditions)
They are inconvenient for belays/ running belays
It is awkward and slow to prussik out of the crevasse with knots on the rope
Using stopper knots requires that your rope partners know how to set-up the drop loop system
Guidelines for when to consider using stopper knots
When glaciers are "wet", i.e., covered with snow (knots may be more likely to catch in the lip)
When traveling long distances with no or only infrequent need for belays/running belays
When there is little or no need for roped rock climbing on the route
When traveling as a team of 2, or traveling as a single party team
When traveling on broken up glaciers with increased risk for crevasse falls
When traveling with heavy packs or sled
Stopper not spacing for two person teams
With consideration to performing a 6:1 haul system. The spacing would need to be closer to 8-10 meters between climbers so there is enough rope to travel down to the fallen climber and ascent back.
https://www.ortovox.com/uk/safety-academy-lab-ice/chapter-2/rope-teams
Winter Mountaineering
Essential Gear and Clothing
Layering System:
Base Layer: Moisture-wicking materials like merino wool or synthetic fibers to keep sweat away from the skin.
Insulation Layer: Provides warmth by trapping and retaining heat. Options include fleece, down, or synthetic insulated jackets.
Outer Shell: Windproof and waterproof layer to protect against external elements. Should also be breathable to allow moisture to escape.
GORETEX Types: Paclite, Regular, Pro
Adjustable Ventilation:
Zippers and Pit Vents: Outer layers with adjustable zippers and pit vents allow for quick ventilation when the body generates excess heat during strenuous activities.
Adjustable Cuffs and Hems: Openings in cuffs and hems can be adjusted to regulate airflow and temperature.
Moisture Management:
Wicking Fabrics: Choose clothing that efficiently wicks moisture away from the body to prevent wetness, which can lead to heat loss.
Quick-Drying Materials: Opt for fabrics that dry quickly to avoid prolonged exposure to damp conditions.
Temperature Regulation Through Layers:
Add or Remove Layers: Adjust the number of layers based on the intensity of physical activity and external conditions.
Temperature Zones: Identify areas of the body prone to overheating or cooling faster (e.g., armpits, groin) and adjust layers accordingly.
Proper Headwear and Gloves:
Head Coverings: Use a hat or balaclava to retain heat, as a significant amount of body heat is lost through the head.
Gloves: Insulated and waterproof gloves protect the extremities from cold and wind. Consider having different thicknesses for varying conditions.
Active and Passive Insulation:
Active Insulation: Engage in physical activity to generate body heat. Maintain a steady pace to prevent overheating or excessive sweating.
Passive Insulation: Use insulation layers during rest breaks to retain heat. Ensure proper insulation even when stationary.
Hydration and Nutrition:
Hydration: Drink fluids regularly to stay hydrated, as dehydration can affect the body's ability to regulate temperature.
Nutrition: Consume high-energy snacks to maintain a steady supply of fuel for the body's heat-generating processes.
Temperature-Aware Planning:
Time Management: Plan the day's activities considering temperature variations throughout the day.
Adapt to Conditions: Be prepared to adjust clothing layers based on changes in weather and terrain.
Monitoring and Self-Awareness:
Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to signals of overheating or cooling. Adjust layers promptly in response to changing conditions.
Check for Moisture: Regularly assess clothing for moisture buildup and address it promptly.
Group Communication:
Share Temperature Concerns: In a group setting, communicate openly about individual comfort levels and make adjustments collectively.
Group Awareness: Be mindful of fellow climbers' conditions and offer support when needed.
Snow Caves, Trenches, and Other Improvised Shelters
Snow Caves:
Location Selection: Choose a site away from potential avalanche paths and on a slope with a gentle incline. Avoid areas with overhanging snow or unstable terrain.
Digging Techniques: Begin by digging a horizontal entrance into the snow. Then, excavate a larger main chamber inside the snowpack.
Ventilation: Create a ventilation hole near the top of the cave to prevent condensation and ensure a fresh air supply.
Sleeping Platform: Level the floor of the cave to create a comfortable sleeping platform. It's essential to insulate the sleeping area from the cold ground.
Trench Shelters:
Digging a Trench: Excavate a trench in the snow, considering the length based on the number of occupants. The trench should be deep enough to provide cover from the wind.
Sleeping Platforms: Similar to snow caves, level the floor of the trench to create sleeping platforms. These platforms help insulate individuals from the cold snow.
Windbreaks: Pile snow along the sides of the trench to create windbreaks and enhance the shelter's protection.
Other Improvised Shelters:
Tree Well Shelters: In forested areas, use the space around the base of a tree to create a shelter. Clear snow away to expose the ground and provide a more stable surface.
Debris Shelters: Utilize available materials such as branches, pine needles, and other debris to construct a makeshift shelter. This can be particularly useful in non-snowy terrain.
Tips for Shelter Construction:
Avoid Overexertion: Building shelters can be physically demanding. Pace yourself to avoid overexertion and sweating, which can lead to damp clothing and increased heat loss.
Group Collaboration: If in a group, work collaboratively to expedite the shelter-building process. Assign specific tasks to individuals to make the most efficient use of time.
Emergency Equipment: Keep essential gear, including sleeping bags, insulated pads, and extra clothing, within easy reach inside the shelter for quick access.
Regular Maintenance: Periodically check and reinforce the shelter structure. Snow and wind conditions can change, and it's essential to ensure the shelter remains stable.