Glacier CS 2

Glacier Lecture 2

Crevasse rescue demonstration and ground practice. This evening meeting is devoted in its entirety to managing crevasse accidents. Much of the evening will be spent practicing a crevasse hauling system: The 6:1 Drop Loop System. Study the video. It is strongly recommended that you begin practicing the hauling technique seen in the video on your own or with a buddy before the lecture.

Gear:

• Helmet, prusiks, harness, carabiners (non-lockers and lockers) 

• Couple short and double length slings

• Cordelette

• Belay device (Guide Mode ATC - BD ATC or Petzl Reverso)

• Optional - Micro traxion or Tibloc

• Pickets

• Ice Axe

Lecture outline

• Stopping a serious crevasse fall can be difficult

http://www.climbing.com/videos/self-arrest-practice-falling-into-a-crevasse/

• Advantages of the 3:1 and Z x C systems

  • Well respected methods

  • Widely known among climbers

  • Generally effective for crevasse rescue

• Limitations of the 3:1 and Z x C systems

  • Rope entrenchment in the lip (if entrenched you need to dig it out or get a second rope for rescue

  • Difficulty stopping severe falls (stopper knots cannot be used but might otherwise be helpful)

  • The 3:1 and Z x C systems are overkill for minor falls

• Advantages of the 6:1 drop loop system

  • Rope entrenchment is a non-issue

  • Works with or without stopper knots

  • Can be quickly set-up in minimized form (2:1) for efficient assistance/rescue

  • Easy to multiply the mechanical advantage of the 2:1 to create a 6:1 system

  • Works with 2-person teams as well as 3-person teams

• Limitations of the 6:1 drop loop system

  • The system is unfamiliar to most climbers

  • Requires the climbers to carry sufficient rope in coil

• Under some circumstances stopper knots may save your butt.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0qQUuulHGSI

• If the knots catch in the lip:

  • They may help arrest the fall

  • They may shorten the fall

  • They may help hold the fall (facilitating anchor set-up)

• Stopper knots do, however, have some disadvantages

  • They don't always work (success depends on (a) type of knot and (b) snow conditions)

  • They are inconvenient for belays/ running belays

  •  It is awkward and slow to prussik out of the crevasse with knots on the rope

  • Using stopper knots requires that your rope partners know how to set-up the drop loop system

• Guidelines for when to consider using stopper knots

  • When glaciers are "wet", i.e., covered with snow (knots may be more likely to catch in the lip)

  • When traveling long distances with no or only infrequent need for belays/running belays

  • When there is little or no need for roped rock climbing on the route

  • When traveling as a team of 2, or traveling as a single party team

  • When traveling on broken up glaciers with increased risk for crevasse falls

  • When traveling with heavy packs or sled

  • Stopper not spacing for two person teams

    1. With consideration to performing a 6:1 haul system. The spacing would need to be closer to 8-10 meters between climbers so there is enough rope to travel down to the fallen climber and ascent back.

    2. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Approaching-a-glacier-as-a-roped-team-of-two?ActivityName=mountaineering

    3. https://www.ortovox.com/uk/safety-academy-lab-ice/chapter-2/rope-teams

Winter Mountaineering

• Essential Gear and Clothing

  • Layering System:

    • Base Layer: Moisture-wicking materials like merino wool or synthetic fibers to keep sweat away from the skin.

    • Insulation Layer: Provides warmth by trapping and retaining heat. Options include fleece, down, or synthetic insulated jackets.

    • Outer Shell: Windproof and waterproof layer to protect against external elements. Should also be breathable to allow moisture to escape.

      • GORETEX Types: Paclite, Regular, Pro

  • Adjustable Ventilation:

    • Zippers and Pit Vents: Outer layers with adjustable zippers and pit vents allow for quick ventilation when the body generates excess heat during strenuous activities.

    • Adjustable Cuffs and Hems: Openings in cuffs and hems can be adjusted to regulate airflow and temperature.

  • Moisture Management:

    • Wicking Fabrics: Choose clothing that efficiently wicks moisture away from the body to prevent wetness, which can lead to heat loss.

    • Quick-Drying Materials: Opt for fabrics that dry quickly to avoid prolonged exposure to damp conditions.

  • Temperature Regulation Through Layers:

    • Add or Remove Layers: Adjust the number of layers based on the intensity of physical activity and external conditions.

    • Temperature Zones: Identify areas of the body prone to overheating or cooling faster (e.g., armpits, groin) and adjust layers accordingly.

  • Proper Headwear and Gloves:

    • Head Coverings: Use a hat or balaclava to retain heat, as a significant amount of body heat is lost through the head.

    • Gloves: Insulated and waterproof gloves protect the extremities from cold and wind. Consider having different thicknesses for varying conditions.

  • Active and Passive Insulation:

    • Active Insulation: Engage in physical activity to generate body heat. Maintain a steady pace to prevent overheating or excessive sweating.

    • Passive Insulation: Use insulation layers during rest breaks to retain heat. Ensure proper insulation even when stationary.

  • Hydration and Nutrition:

    • Hydration: Drink fluids regularly to stay hydrated, as dehydration can affect the body's ability to regulate temperature.

    • Nutrition: Consume high-energy snacks to maintain a steady supply of fuel for the body's heat-generating processes.

  • Temperature-Aware Planning:

    • Time Management: Plan the day's activities considering temperature variations throughout the day.

    • Adapt to Conditions: Be prepared to adjust clothing layers based on changes in weather and terrain.

  • Monitoring and Self-Awareness:

    • Listen to Your Body: Pay attention to signals of overheating or cooling. Adjust layers promptly in response to changing conditions.

    • Check for Moisture: Regularly assess clothing for moisture buildup and address it promptly.

  • Group Communication:

    • Share Temperature Concerns: In a group setting, communicate openly about individual comfort levels and make adjustments collectively.

    • Group Awareness: Be mindful of fellow climbers' conditions and offer support when needed.

• Snow Caves, Trenches, and Other Improvised Shelters

  • Snow Caves:

    • • • Location Selection: Choose a site away from potential avalanche paths and on a slope with a gentle incline. Avoid areas with overhanging snow or unstable terrain.

        • Digging Techniques: Begin by digging a horizontal entrance into the snow. Then, excavate a larger main chamber inside the snowpack.

        • Ventilation: Create a ventilation hole near the top of the cave to prevent condensation and ensure a fresh air supply.

        • Sleeping Platform: Level the floor of the cave to create a comfortable sleeping platform. It's essential to insulate the sleeping area from the cold ground.

    • Trench Shelters:

      • • Digging a Trench: Excavate a trench in the snow, considering the length based on the number of occupants. The trench should be deep enough to provide cover from the wind.

        • Sleeping Platforms: Similar to snow caves, level the floor of the trench to create sleeping platforms. These platforms help insulate individuals from the cold snow.

        • Windbreaks: Pile snow along the sides of the trench to create windbreaks and enhance the shelter's protection.

    • Other Improvised Shelters:

      • • Tree Well Shelters: In forested areas, use the space around the base of a tree to create a shelter. Clear snow away to expose the ground and provide a more stable surface.

        • Debris Shelters: Utilize available materials such as branches, pine needles, and other debris to construct a makeshift shelter. This can be particularly useful in non-snowy terrain.

    • Tips for Shelter Construction:

      • • Avoid Overexertion: Building shelters can be physically demanding. Pace yourself to avoid overexertion and sweating, which can lead to damp clothing and increased heat loss.

        • Group Collaboration: If in a group, work collaboratively to expedite the shelter-building process. Assign specific tasks to individuals to make the most efficient use of time.

        • Emergency Equipment: Keep essential gear, including sleeping bags, insulated pads, and extra clothing, within easy reach inside the shelter for quick access.

        • Regular Maintenance: Periodically check and reinforce the shelter structure. Snow and wind conditions can change, and it's essential to ensure the shelter remains stable.