CS2 | Multipitch

Making efficient transitions in a multipitch setting. Using Terrain belays and simulclimbing

Classroom Session 2

Gear: Bring your full alpine kit to class

Location: Tacoma Clubhouse

Key points:

Accident Analysis: How can we mitigate catastrophic accidents in the alpine?
Trip Planning: How do we plan for a rock climb?
Belaying: How do we belay from above a climber?
Transitions: How can we make transitions quickly without compromising safety?
Terrain Belays: How can we use the mountain environment to keep us safe?
Simul-climbing: How can we move quickly through easy but exposed terrain between harder pitches?

Homework:

Prior to class, please read fully read the official accident report from the May 5, 2025 incident that claimed the lives of 3 climbers. Be prepared to discuss the details of this accident and offer your own analysis of this accident.

5-10-25 Early Winters Couloir Accident Report

Rock Climb Gear Spreadsheet

Trip Planning

Trip planning is vital to the success of any leader. Planning the logistics and itinerary of a climb are crucial to setting expectations with your party (whether they are basic students or trusted climbing partners). Below are just some examples of Basic Rock Climb logistic emails for the S Face of Ingalls Peak and The Tooth.

Rock Trip Plan Exmaple 1

Rock Trip Plan Example 2

Belaying from Above

We have gone over belaying from above with an ATC in guide mode, this video demonstrates belaying from above with a GriGri.

Some methods to assist your follower if they get stuck in a difficult move.

Multipitch Transitions

There are some good things to consider here. Try to keep in mind staying as efficient as possible and like the video says to always keep the rope moving. This takes a lot of practice to get smooth and will even change from partner to partner.

Great overview of the types of transitions we can see. It's a good strategy to discuss who is leading what pitch before the climb in the planning stage or while approaching the climb. Sometimes on harder climbs its best to lead in blocks so that the leader gets to rest a bit after leading a pitch. On easier climbs the belaying will be more strenuous than the climbing .

Belaying Through Easier Terrain

Here is a great way to make a quick anchor using a tree. Note this is only for easy climbing! Nothing vertical. Can be used to great effect at the top of a simulclimb pitch.

The hip belay is a fast and effective method for belaying a follower through easy 4th or low 5th class terrain without having to fully pitch it out.

Simul-climbing

Simulclimbing can be an amazing way to make a climb go really fast. I personally only use this technique on very easy terrain(4th-5.3 or so). Examples can be black peak NE ridge which is a fantastic climb that I highly recommend. This climb can be about 20 or more pitches and easily take more than a day if you don't simulclimb it. It is all very easy climbing but super exposed and that is the perfect scenario for simulclimbing. It is an amazing tool to have in your pocket.

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