CS2 | Multipitch

How to belay and lower from above and making transitions. Using Terrain belays and simulclimbing

Classroom Sessions Logistics

Meeting Time: April 24th 6;00 PM

Location: Tacoma Clubhouse

Classroom Session 2: KEY POINTS

Key points:

Belaying: How do we belay from above a climber?
Transitions: How can we make transitions quickly without compromising safety?
Terrain Belays: How can we use the mountain environment to keep us safe?
SimulClimbing: How can we move quickly through easy but exposed terrain between harder pitches?
Rappel Anchors: Pro and cons of different belay rings, tat and tips\tricks

Belaying from Above

You can see two options for belaying from above in this video. Like she says for most situations we belay directly off the anchor.

Multipitch belay transition efficiency.docx

Transitions

There are some good things to consider here. Try to keep in mind staying as efficient as possible and like the video says to always keep the rope moving. This takes a lot of practice to get smooth and will even change from partner to partner.

Great overview of the types of transitions we can see. It's a good strategy to discuss who is leading what pitch before the climb in the planning stage or while approaching the climb. Sometimes on harder climbs its best to lead in blocks so that the leader gets to rest a bit after leading a pitch. On easier climbs the belaying will be more strenuous than the climbing .

Special Belays

Here is a great way to make a quick anchor using a tree. Note this is only for easy climbing! Nothing vertical. Can be used to great effect at the top of a simulclimb pitch.

How to Hip BelayLong before the invention of belay devices, the hip belay provided security for the second and saved time in the mountains. When used correctly, a bomber stance can replace a traditional anchor, or you can back up a marginal anchor with a solid stance. It’s best in lower-angled and broken terrain, where a fall by the second is easily recovered, and there is little danger of a pendulum swing.

SimulClimbing

Simulclimbing can be an amazing way to make a climb go really fast. I personally only use this technique on very easy terrain(4th-5.3 or so). Examples can be black peak NE ridge which is a fantastic climb that I highly recommend. This climb can be about 20 or more pitches and easily take more than a day if you don't simulclimb it. It is all very easy climbing but super exposed and that is the perfect scenario for simulclimbing. Read the article on the right and consider using the technique. It is an amazing tool to have in your pocket.

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