Glacier FT 1

Glacier Field Trip 1

Anchors and Belays

1. Picket Anchors

   1. Top clip vertical

      1. Ineffective in anything but hard snow

   2. Mid clip horizontal (deadman, T-slot)

      1. Can be very strong when buried and set properly

      2. Subject to weak layers (consideration given to snowpack history)

      3. Takes time to build properly

   3. Mid clip vertical

      1. As strong as deeply placed (24”) horizontal mid clips

      2. Quick to place

      3. Angle back 10-15 degrees; >15 degrees may cause fluking and bouncing 

      4. Should only be made with dyneema slings or cable. Webbing is too wide and compromises the anchor when digging the slot.

2. Force and Ratings

   1. Forces on pickets

      1. Forces up to 4 kN: snow picket hardware functions as designed.

      2. Forces from 4 kN to 6.4 kN: snow picket hardware usually functions as designed, but pickets can bend or break 

      3. Forces 6.5 to 8 kN: pickets behave in unpredictable ways, some bend or break.

      4. Forces 8 kN+: pickets are unstable and routinely bend or break 

2. Snow hardness tests 

   1. Fist =.04 kN or less (snow not safe for climbing with pickets in any manner) 

   2. 4 Finger = .04 to .4 kN (snow not safe for climbing with single pickets in any manner)

   3. 1 Finger = .4 to 4 kN (snow marginal, might stop a slip but not a fall, double up pickets)

   4. Pencil = 4 to 40 kN (good for climbing, space pickets for fall forces less than 4 kN) 

   5. Knife = 40+ kN (good for all protected climbing if you can manage to get the picket in)

3. Quick Belays: Prussik belay (fixed handline), Carabine ice-axe belay (situational), Sitting hip belay (back up w/ quick anchor: placed or buried ice axe), butt-axe belay

4. Running Belays

   1. Best on moderate slopes as a backup to self arrest

      1. What’s an alternative?

   2. Inappropriate for steep slopes where self arrest is questionable

   3. Requires firm snow to place reliable pickets

   4. Minimum of two pickets between climbers

   5. Pass without unclipping demo

      1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vpz3ytkxtJo

   6. Can be combined with secure belay at top of pitch

      1. Leader belays followers up as they pass and gather pickets

5. Anchored Belays

   1. Two pickets mandatory to belay a leader

   2. Place pickets perpendicular to slope with vertical separation (several feet if possible) (note: fall forces change with leading on snow/ice)

   3. Rig with cordelette or slings to achieve “SERENE“ 

      1. Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, no Extension

   4. Master point: 

      1. Belay directly off the anchor for followers: Device or Munter 

      2. Belay off the harness for leader

6. Descending

   1. Lowering strategies

      1. Lowering off harness or directly of an anchor (depending on circumstances)

      2. Leader goes last and down climbs

      3. Down climb can be belayed if second to last places pickets on the way down

   2. Rappels

      1. Bollards

      2. Rocks

      3. Picket anchor (backed up until leader goes last, sacrifices one piece)

      4. V & A thread (if solid ice can be reached and utilized)

1. Demonstration of Anchors

1. SERENE

1. Strong/Solid: solid enough on their own and can hold a significant fall

2. Equilized: each piece should share the load equally

3. Redundant: should be more than one piece in case something fails

4. Efficient: “Speed is safety”

5. No Extension: if one piece should blow out, there will not be a shock-loading of the anchor

2. Sliding X

   1. Pros

   2. Cons

3. Girth Hitch

   1. Pros

   2. Cons

4. 2 Piece Cordelette

   1. Pros

   2. Cons

5. Quad

   1. Pros

   2. Cons

6. 2 Piece Snow Anchor

   1. Equalize with Block and Tackle + Finish w/ Mule Knot

2. Practice on 6:1 System w/ different mechanisms (belay device, micro, gri-gri, pulley-prussik)

3. Introduce Descent to Fallen Climber and Practice Time

   1. Arrest the fall

   2. Communicate

   3. Place first piece of anchor

   4. Transfer the load

      1. Clip sling to bight knot

   5. Reinforce anchor with second piece

      1. Equalize the two anchors using the block and tackle

   6. Check on fallen climber and devise a rescue plan

   7. Descend to Fallen Climber

      1. Auto-block on strand

      2. Rappel Device oriented with teeth engaged and guide loop closer to climber

      3. Rappel Down to Fallen Climber

   8. Clip the Climber

      1. Tie Catastrophe Knot below autoblock

      2. Clip loop to fallen climber

   9. Reascend Rope

      1. Attach microtraxion or prussik above device and attach foot loop using carabiner

      2. Clip carabiner to guide loop on device

      3. Stand up on foot loop and clip device to belay loop to engage guide mode

      4. Remove autoblock and catastrophe knot

      5. Redirect pull strand through foot loop carabiner (optional)

      6. Stand and Pull

      7. Readjust microtraxion or prusik

      8. Repeat 6 and 7

   10. Execute Remainder of 6:1 system