Making precise rip cuts using the fence.
Making precise cross cuts of boards less than 3 feet long using the miter gauge.
The table saw will make very precise, straight cuts when used correctly.
Our table saws have a SawStop feature that will stop the blade immediately before cutting a finger (or other body part).
This is a dangerous tool!
The saw blade is exposed above the table looking for helpless fingers to cut off.
The table saw has a circular blade.
Circular blades are dangerous because they have an infinite number of tangential forces. In other words, they are unpredictable and will cause a kickback if not used correctly.
Circular blades tend to bind against wood that is not held correctly. This will cause a kickback.
When the SawStop is triggered, it will immediately stop the blade resulting in the destruction of both the blade and the brake cartridge. This costs about $150. If you deliberately trigger the SawStop, you will be charged the full value of the repair.
The main reason for triggering the SawStop is touching the blade after the power is turned off, but before the blade stops spinning. Wait for the blade to completely stop spinning before reaching near the blade!
Cutting wet wood will trigger the SawStop.
Cutting boards with nails or metal will trigger the SawStop.
The SawStop will not prevent a kickback from happening. A kickback is your most likely form of injury. Kickbacks can be prevented by keeping your wood flat against the table and the fence.
Always wear safety glasses when using this tool.
Tie your hair back, tuck in loose articles of clothing and put away your earbuds.
Don't wear gloves.
Turn on the dust collector whenever you use this tool!
Only one person may use this tool at a time.
Fingers must be 4" away from the blade whenever it is in motion.
Use a push stick to cut narrow wood (less than 6" wide).
Do not rip cut any boards less than 6" long.
Hold your work flat on the table.
Always use the fence to make rip cuts. Your work must fully contact the fence. Use the jointer first to make a flat edge.
Use the miter gauge or a cross cut sled to make cross cuts. Do not use the fence for cross cuts!
When done cutting, turn off the saw and wait for it to stop.
The SawStop will activate when it senses moisture or electrical conductivity. This includes:
Your finger.
Your face.
Other body parts.
Wet wood.
Pressure-treated wood.
Foil-backed materials.
Metal, nails, staples, etc.
The SawStop functions after the power is turned off. As long as the blade is spinning, the SawStop is active!
Once the SawStop activates, the saw is not functional.
If you turn the power off, you must wait until the blade comes to a complete stop before turning it back on.
Fingers 4" away.
Only one person may operate the machine.
A second person may assist with long boards, but only to support the wood, not to pull it through the blade.
A second person may retrieve cut boards, but only after they have completely cleared the blade.
The blade must be 1/4" above the surface of your work.
Don't rip cut boards less than 6" long.
Make sure you have room to push your work completely through the saw. If you are rip cutting a long board, make sure there is room past the table for your board.
Do not stand directly in front of the table saw. Stand to one side in case of kickback.
Turn on the power and wait for the blade to reach full speed.
Push your board through the blade at a fairly quick speed. If the blade slows down, you're going too fast. It should take only a few seconds to make a 12" cut.
Push your work all the way through the blade. A partner on the other side of the table can grab the piece at the end of the cut.
Do not reach near the blade until the blade has completely stopped!
A: Saw Blade: This is what cuts wood. And fingers. Why is this in the power section? Because it's connected to the system that controls the SawStop. Touching the blade will cause the red light on D to blink.
B: Power Cutoff: This is the master power cutoff switch. This is used when performing maintenance on the machine.
C: Blade Power: This turns the blade on and off. If you pull this on and the blade doesn't come on, look on the code chart for the reason. Many times, you can turn it off, count to ten, and turn it back on.
D: Indicator Lights: A solid green light means the tool is safe to use. If the green light is blinking, you must wait for the blade to stop before reaching near the blade.
E: Main (computer) Power: This is what turns the Saw Stop computer on and off. This stays on. (If you turn it off, you'll have to find the teacher to turn it back on again.)
A: Fence: When making rip cuts, your wood must fully contact the fence. Set the fence to the exact width of your desired cut. Always make your finished piece towards the fence. Do not cut with the scrap side against the fence.
B: Table: Your work must sit flat on the table. If your workpiece rocks, it could cause a kickback. Use the jointer or planer to make a flat surface before continuing.
C: Angle Adjustment: This leans the blade at an angle. Loosen the center screw and then rotate the crank to adjust. Make sure that the blade is back to 90 degrees when you are done. Often, you will have to open the cabinet to clear dust from the angle stop.
D: Blade Depth: Loosen the center screw and then rotate the crank to adjust. The blade should be 1/4" above the surface of your work.
E: Miter Gauge: Use this when making cross cuts. First, move the fence out of the way. Then put the miter gauge into the slot on the table and hold your work firmly against the miter gauge. You may also use a cross cut sled for cross cuts.