Bandsaw

Function:

To make curved and irregular cuts in wood. The bandsaw can also be used to make rip cuts with a fence and cross cuts with a miter gauge, but it is not as effective as a table saw or miter saw. Unlike the table saw, the bandsaw can safely be used without any fence, miter gauge or other accessory. (See kickback in the table saw description.)

Advantages:

• Limited dynamic forces: In other words, the blade moves down, into the table, significantly reducing the chance of a dangerous kickback.
• Small blade allows for curved cuts.
• Long blade allows for exceptionally thick cuts to be made, up to 10" thick.
• The blade travels in a loop, which means it travels in one direction. A jigsaw and a scroll saw will make similar cuts, but their blades move up and down, causing the material to jump around more.

Safety Concerns:

• Safety glasses must be worn at all times (even if you are just watching).
• Only one person may use this machine at a time! Do not attempt to "help" somebody in any way, including operating the power switch or brake. If you are cutting large material and think you need help, ask the instructor.
• It is a good idea to wear hearing protection if you are using this tool for a prolonged time.
• The blade guard must be 1/4" above the material. If it is too close, the wood will get stuck. If the guard is too far, your finger could get cut off. The blade guard also stabilizes the blade; if it is too high, you will get an inferior cut. The blade is also likely to twist if the guard is too high. This could result in the blade breaking.
• Your fingers must be 2" away from the blade. If you are cutting small pieces, use a jig or push stick to guide the wood, not your fingers.
• Never place your hands, fingers or other body parts directly in front of the blade.
• When you are done with the machine, you must turn it off and wait for the blade to stop.
• Lower the blade guard when you are done.
• Do not stand directly to the right of the machine. If the blade breaks, it could fly out of the guard on the right side.
• Do not back out of a curved cut. If you do, one of these things could happen:
  • The blade could bend or break.
  • The blade could come off the wheels.
  • You could get burn marks on your wood.
• Backing out of a cut:
  • It is safe to back out of a cut with the machine running if it is a straight cut.
  • It is less wear on the machine than constantly starting and stopping the blade.
  • When backing out, pull gently with your fingertips. Watch that you are not pulling the blade backwards.
  • If you need to back out of a curved cut, you still must stop the machine.
• If the blade binds, do not force the wood. If you do, the blade could break. Instead, turn off the machine and get help.
• If the machine makes a clicking or other unusual sound, turn it off and get an instructor. It could be a sign of a worn blade.
• If the machine starts vibrating, turn it off and get an instructor.
• If you are cutting curves, you must make relief cuts to keep the blade from binding. The relief cuts should be about as far apart as the blade is wide. If you are using a 3/8" blade, the cuts should be 3/8" apart. A smaller blade will allow you to make tighter cuts.
• Never touch the two adjustment knobs. These are for the tracking and tension. If these are changed, then the saw has to be re-tuned, a process that can take up to an hour!

Settings:

• The guard is 1/4" above the material.
• Fingers are 2" away from the blade.
• Fingers are never in the path of the blade.

Additional Information:

• Cut to the outside of your line. It is far easier to sand off extra than it is to glue extra pieces back together. Trust me. I've tried it and it just doesn't work!
• There are three bandsaws in our shop. Each one is set up differently with a different blade. Generally, the more curved work you are doing, the smaller blade you want to use. Only use the large blade when you are resawing or making large, straight cuts. The medium sized blade is best for most cuts.

Parts: