To make holes in wood and metal.
Precise control over depth of hole. Most drill presses have a depth limiter that can be set.
Control over angle of hole. The angle of the table can be adjusted or a jig can be used to drill at an angle.
Control over the location of the hole. By clamping your board to a table, you can control the exact location of the hole; the drill bit won't wander as it will with a handheld drill.
Tie long hair back. If your hair touches your shoulder, it must be put farther up into a bun.
Do not wear gloves at the drill press. The drill bit could grab the glove and rip it off... with your skin.
Loose clothing must be buttoned, zipped, tucked in, or removed. This includes drawstrings.
Earphones and earbuds may not be worn. There may be no visible cords.
Drill bits must be tightly secured in the chuck.
Remove chuck key immediately. Do not leave chuck key in the chuck or it could spin out and hurt somebody.
Safety glasses must be worn. This includes not only the operator, but any spectators.
Work must be clamped to the table. At least one clamping point is required. (If clamping a finished piece, use a soft-jawed clamp or a sacrificial pad to prevent damage.)
Larger drill bits must be used at a slower speed. Smaller bits may be used at a higher speed. Only the instructor should change drill bit speeds!
Always use a backer board or a backer plate. This will protect the drill press table, and it will prevent grain tearout at the back of your board. (A backer plate is a small wood insert in the drill press table. A backer board is a scrap of wood that you put on the table.)
If the board comes loose and starts spinning, FIRST, STEP BACK! Then turn off the drill press and stand back and wait for it to stop. Then look at it and determine what went wrong.
Only one person may operate the drill press at a time.
Smaller drill bits will use a faster speed.
Larger drill bits will use a slower speed.
Used for small holes up to 1/2" in wood and metal. Drill holes in several passes so that the flutes don't clog with material. (The flutes are the spiral grooves.) This is a good bit for most small holes, but it doesn't make the cleanest holes.
A spade bit in an inexpensive bit for making larger holes. It also bores very quickly compared to a twist bit. However, because of it's flat shape, it can easily catch on the grain of the wood causing the bit to bind. If you are using a hand drill, it could twist your wrist.
These bits are more expensive, but create a much cleaner hole. Use these when you need a precise hole, as they will drill straighter.
This is more like a round saw than a drill bit. It cuts much slower than the other drill bits, but can cut much larger holes (6" and larger). Because of its larger diameter, the hole saw must be run at a slower speed. One disadvantage of a hole saw is that the cut out piece gets stuck inside the tool.
Use this tool when you need to make a very precise, larger hole. The arm can be adjusted to any diameter. It must be run slowly and used with great caution because the irregular shape could easily catch loose objects or whack you in the hand if you are not careful.
A: Power Switch. This is different on the two drill presses. On the Powermatic, pull the switch to turn it on and push to turn off. On the other drill press, press the green button to turn it on and press the red button to turn it off.
B: Chuck. This is where the drill bit goes. There is a keyed chuck and a keyless chuck. The keyed chuck requires a chuck key.
C: Drill Bit. Be sure to insert the drill bit far enough into the chuck that it gets a good hold. On larger bits, do not insert past the first shoulder.
D: Table Tilt. If you wanted to drill a hole at an angle, loosen the bolt under the table and tilt the table. There is an angle gauge to help you set an angle. Always return the table to 90 degrees when you are done.
E: Table Height Adjustment. Turn the handle on the opposite side to loosen the collar. Then raise or lower the table by turning the handle (E). You can also swing the table from side to side.