- Cutting stock to length.
- Making precise cross-cuts.
- Making precise miter cuts.
- The miter saw can cut very long boards.
- Although kickbacks are common, the force is directed toward the fence. It will scare the bananas out of you, but if your hands are in the right place, you aren't likely to get hurt.
- The miter saw is only for cross cuts. No rip cuts!
- A rip cut goes with the grain of the wood. Rip cuts are generally longer than cross cuts.
- A cross cut goes against the grain. Cross cuts are generally shorter than rip cuts.
- This saw has a circular blade. Circular blades are inherently more dangerous because of the infinite number of dynamic force vectors. (This means that they are unpredictable.)
- There is no SawStop feature on this tool. It will cut your fingers off and keep going for more!
- Always wear safety glasses when using this tool.
- You should wear hearing protection when using for a prolonged time.
- Tie your hair back, tuck in loose articles of clothing and put away your earbuds.
- Don't wear gloves.
- Turn on the dust collector whenever you use this tool!
- Only one person may use this tool at a time.
- Fingers must be 6" away from the blade.
- Your work must be at least 8" long to safely cut. If you need to cut shorter pieces, use the table saw with a sled, or the bandsaw.
- Hold your work firmly against the fence.
- Make sure your work contacts the fence closest to the blade. There should not be a gap between your board and the fence where the blade is. If you see a U shape, you will get a kickback!
- Cut with a smooth, even speed.
- Fingers 6" away.
- Minimum 8" board length.
- Close the slide lock for narrow boards.
- Mark your cut line with a pencil.
- With the blade stopped, line up the blade with your mark.
- Raise the blade and hold your work.
- Turn on the power.
- Pull the saw forward (if using the slide).
- Pull the saw down.
- Push the saw into the work (if using the slide).
- Raise the saw.
- Turn off the power.
- A: Power Switch: Rotate the thumb switch and then squeeze the finger grip.
- B: Slide Lock: Lock this in the up position for narrow boards. Unlock this to open the slide to cut wider boards.
- C: Fence: Hold your work firmly against the fence.
- D: Bevel Lock: This unlocks the cutting head to rotate right or left to make angled cuts against the face. Make sure this is locked at 90 degrees.
- E: Miter Lock: The screw handle locks the rotation at any angle. There is also a finger/thumb grip that unlocks the miter at pre-determined detents. It will lock at 45 degrees for making frame miters, for example.
- F: Blade Guard: Make sure this is in place to protect your delicate face from being the target of wayward projectiles!