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Why to do the fermentation?
Why to do the fermentation?
This is the process where the sugars, produced during the mashing are converted to alcohol by the yeast, releasing CO2.
The fermentation takes place in sanitezed fermentation vessels.
After the wort is cooled and aerated (preferible with sterile air), yeast is added to it and it begins to ferment. The temperature is an important process variant and should be controlled/monitored.
It is during this stage that sugars won from the malt are converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2), and the product can be called beer for the first time.
At the end of fermentation, the yeast and other solids are settled to the bottom of the vessel.
The fermentation process
The fermentation process
Fermentation goes through 3 phases until it is completed.
Adaptive
Adaptive
The phase starts after inoculation of the yeast and it can take up to 15 hours to finish. In this phase, yeasts adapt to the conditions of the wort and absorb oxygen, minerals and amino acids to synthesize proteins.
Growth
Growth
Sugars are converted to alcohol and CO2. In this phase, the time can vary, being influenced by different aspects, such as inoculated strain, temperature and oxygenation, but it can take from 2 to 10 days, depending on the type of beer.
It is possible to notice that a foam is formed. This foam is composed of yeast and wort proteins. Greenish spots can also be noticed, they are residues of hops, dead yeasts and wort proteins. The points will be fixed on the wall of the fermenter.
Stationary
Stationary
In the stationary phase, yeasts have already carried out practically the whole process, but the beer remains "green". This is due to compounds generated during fermentation that have not yet been fully absorbed by the yeast. This process will be completed at this stage.
To speed up the cleaning of the must, observe how the original gravity decreases and stabilizes. When it is stabilized, increase the temperature of the fermenter to one degree Celsius per day, until the optimal temperature for the yeast fermentation is reached. Then keep the temperature for two days.
Some yeasts are fermented at high temperatures, while others need lower temperatures. Therefore, to achieve an optimal result, it is not enough to set a single temperature to let the yeast ferment. Some factors, as temperature control and others will be essential to characterize the beer.
Each fermentation stage is important for a beer cycle. Without the processes, the beer will not achieve the optimal result.
5 key factors for good fermentation
5 key factors for good fermentation
“The brewer doesn't make beer , yeast makes beer . The brewer only prepares the wort and the yeasts will transform the wort into beer”
Brewing Fermentation
Brewing Fermentation
In fact, yeasts are going to convert that sweet wort that you prepared during the brewing process, into alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in the beer!
The beginner amatuer brewer, often thinks that craft beer alone is excellent, just prepare a ready recipe, put it to ferment and we have the craft beer, and as a craft beer it is much better than commercial beer, so that's enough.
However, over time you end up realizing that this is not the case.
It must be considered that a good fermentation is one of the main factors for the excellent beer. There is no such thing as an excellent beer without fermentation control. Without controlling your fermentation, you will not have an excellent beer , you may have a good beer.
So fermentation control is essential for those who want to produce an excellent beer.
Temperature Fermentation Control
Temperature Fermentation Control
The most basic and important of all factors is the control of the fermentation temperature!
To have a reasonable temperature control it is necessary to have a refrigerator with a thermostat (PID) so that, if the recipe indicates that the yeast strain has an ideal fermentation profile at 18°C, it can be adjusted to keep the fermentation at 18°C throughout the process fermentation.
Or even if it has a fermentation profile that on the second day it should be increase from 18°C to 19°C, on the fourth day from 19°C to 20°C...
In some cases, it cannot simply leave the yeast at room temperature, as depending on where it is fermented, it 0can experience a very sudden variation in temperature throughout the day. For example, in the early morning, the temperature may be in the region of 15°C and during the noon temperature can reach 30°C.
The temperature variation will stress the yeast, and all the yeast stress is turned into off flavors that you will feel in your beer.
Everything that stress the yeast will reflect in off flavors , mainly esters and higher alcohols .
Wort oxygenation
Wort oxygenation
The oxygen, normally in the beer production process, is the villain in almost all the brewing phases.
However, in the pre-fermentation stage it is essential. The synthesis of proteins for the preparation and construction of the yeast cell walls that are going to multiply to make the fermentation, needs a lot of oxygen.
So, little oxygen is synonymous of weaker cell walls, which result in yeasts that possibly will not have the potential for a good fermentation. It also reflects stress due to the lack of yeasts to mitigate your wort.
Due to that it can result in a more prolonged fermentation reflecting in an not excellent beer.
Correct yeast inoculation rate
Correct yeast inoculation rate
The inoculum rate is the amount of yeast that you add to your wort. According to volume, the density you have, you determine your inoculum rate and the estimated number of yeast cells needed to attenuate your wort.
The amount of viable yeasts in your liquid yeast vial or dry yeast package should also be taken into account .
Yeast always have a date of manufacture , and with each passing day, the viability of them will fall, especially liquid yeast that has a lower retention rate, ie, it has a higher decay.
So many times if you have a liquid yeast vial (for those who don't know what a vial is, I put a picture here) and it has been with a week, two weeks, or a month since it was prepared , you have a viability, now if he is already three months old , the viability will be much lower.
This is perhaps one of the most common mistakes among craft brewers, especially beginners: Inadequate inoculum rate , below the estimated.
I say it because there is a myth that 1 package of yeast is enough for 20 liters of beer , regardless of density.
But if you are going to make, for example , a slightly higher density beer and also depending on the viability, maybe 1 package is not enough for the 20 liters, although many brewers think it is, therefore, the attenuation, the fermentation, even if dragged, it will happen, only the result is not an excellent result.
Ensuring sufficient nutrients for yeasts
Ensuring sufficient nutrients for yeasts
When you do your mashing, at the mashing stage, you break down proteins , produce amino acids that will serve as nutrients for the yeasts.
In the case of light beers , with an initial density of around 1,040 or 1,050, it is usually sufficient (although there is usually a lack of zinc).
Now if you produce a beer with a higher density , the tendency is that these amino acids will not be enough, it is necessary to introduce nutrients for the yeasts, because the nutrients that the barley makes available will not be enough for an excellent fermentation.
Depending on the beer you are going to produce, you will need an addition of nutrients to have an excellent fermentation.
Respect the fermentation time
The brewer has to be patient . It is no use putting the wort to ferment and wanting to remove the beer just because 7 days have passed or the airlock has stopped bubbling.
You need to measure the attenuation to know that, in fact, fermentation is over, it means, all fermentable sugars have been consumed by the yeasts
It is very important to have patience and calm because at that moment the yeasts consume some of the by-products of the initial stages of fermentation, such as diacetyl, acetaldehyde, etc., which are off flavors for your beer.
By consuming these by-products, the end result of your beer's sensory profile will be much better.
Primary Fermentation
Primary Fermentation
It starts: when we inoculate the yeast
It starts: when we inoculate the yeast
It ends: when the yeast finishes consuming all the sugars it can get (fermentable), which can be observed by stopping the generation of bubbles in the air-lock, but MAINLY, by stopping lowering the density of the liquid, ie, the correct technique To determine the end of Primary Fermentation, after stopping bubbling, measure the density of the beer with a hydrometer for at least 2 days in a row, and see if it is the same. If it remains the same, it means that the yeast is no longer eating anything. If you measured the density one day, you wrote it down, and the next day when you measured the density again it was lower, it means that the fermentation is not over yet because the yeast is still eating.
It ends: when the yeast finishes consuming all the sugars it can get (fermentable), which can be observed by stopping the generation of bubbles in the air-lock, but MAINLY, by stopping lowering the density of the liquid, ie, the correct technique To determine the end of Primary Fermentation, after stopping bubbling, measure the density of the beer with a hydrometer for at least 2 days in a row, and see if it is the same. If it remains the same, it means that the yeast is no longer eating anything. If you measured the density one day, you wrote it down, and the next day when you measured the density again it was lower, it means that the fermentation is not over yet because the yeast is still eating.
Secondary Fermentation
Secondary Fermentation
How much time? - Here the brewer should start training his artisan side of the thing, that is, stimulate his own sensory analysis. Because? Because the secondary fermentation is used for the yeast to REABSORVE some of the undesirable by-products that it itself generated during fermentation, such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde. So, when does secondary fermentation end? It ends when we take a sample of the beer and no longer feel these off-flavors. "Ok Guenther, but please, give me X number of days, because I still can't feel / perceive these off-flavors". Assuming a secondary fermentation temperature of around 16 degrees for lagers, and at least about 22 degrees for ales, in my experience some 3 days (recommended in various literature) are really sufficient. As the temperature acts directly on the speed of everything that the yeast does, this period can be longer if these temperatures are lower. HOWEVER, these 3 days are NORMALLY enough when the fermentation has gone well, healthy, all cute, with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers). with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers). with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers).
How much time? - Here the brewer should start training his artisan side of the thing, that is, stimulate his own sensory analysis. Because? Because the secondary fermentation is used for the yeast to REABSORVE some of the undesirable by-products that it itself generated during fermentation, such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde. So, when does secondary fermentation end? It ends when we take a sample of the beer and no longer feel these off-flavors. "Ok Guenther, but please, give me X number of days, because I still can't feel / perceive these off-flavors". Assuming a secondary fermentation temperature of around 16 degrees for lagers, and at least about 22 degrees for ales, in my experience some 3 days (recommended in various literature) are really sufficient. As the temperature acts directly on the speed of everything that the yeast does, this period can be longer if these temperatures are lower. HOWEVER, these 3 days are NORMALLY enough when the fermentation has gone well, healthy, all cute, with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers). with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers). with temperature control, sufficient amount of yeast, etc. If there was a lot of temperature variation, lack of yeast, that is, fermentation stress, the amount of by-products generated can be TEN times greater, and consequently this may require a much longer secondary fermentation (such as high gravity beers, where yeast always suffers).
Clarification
Clarification
How much time? - First, it is necessary to understand that, as soon as the beer stopped fermenting, the process of clarification, that is, decantation of residues, cells, proteins, etc., is constant. This will happen forever (as well as maturation, which will be explained later). What we do is nothing more than a STIMULUS so that this decantation occurs faster, lowering the temperature of the liquid. It is interesting to do this before filling, as this way we take much less cells and waste into bottles and barrels, causing, in time, much less sludge to be generated at the bottom. How much time? In my experience, at least a week. Again, I, Guenther, always tend to do things VERY calmly, and tend to extend all the processes that can benefit my beer if they take longer, so, as I said, I leave it for at least a week, but many times I have bottled it only after months with the beer clarifying / maturing in the fermenter. If you were going to bottle in such a case, you would probably have to add more yeast. Oh, and don't expect the beer to be crystalline still in the fermenter / maturer, this is just to remove the excess. The beer will only be crystal clear even after it is under the pressure of CO², after bottling / bottling, that does speed up the decantation of residues.
How much time? - First, it is necessary to understand that, as soon as the beer stopped fermenting, the process of clarification, that is, decantation of residues, cells, proteins, etc., is constant. This will happen forever (as well as maturation, which will be explained later). What we do is nothing more than a STIMULUS so that this decantation occurs faster, lowering the temperature of the liquid. It is interesting to do this before filling, as this way we take much less cells and waste into bottles and barrels, causing, in time, much less sludge to be generated at the bottom. How much time? In my experience, at least a week. Again, I, Guenther, always tend to do things VERY calmly, and tend to extend all the processes that can benefit my beer if they take longer, so, as I said, I leave it for at least a week, but many times I have bottled it only after months with the beer clarifying / maturing in the fermenter. If you were going to bottle in such a case, you would probably have to add more yeast. Oh, and don't expect the beer to be crystalline still in the fermenter / maturer, this is just to remove the excess. The beer will only be crystal clear even after it is under the pressure of CO², after bottling / bottling, that does speed up the decantation of residues.
Maturation
Maturation
How much time? - Well, did you notice that I said "beer clarifying / MATURING inside the fermenter"? That's right, and that's right. Maturation, that is, "ripening" of the beer, is an endless process. By the time it has stopped fermenting, it is already maturing, maturing, and then ... aging (which can be GREAT). Fermentation would be her birth. But then, how long to mature? It depends. What we normally want with the maturation is to make the beer lose the taste of GREEN aroma (like a fruit still green), and keep the taste and aroma good to drink, and again, it COMPLETELY depends on how the beer was fermented. , the type of beer, and so on. Properly fermented beers look better after just 2 weeks than badly fermented beers even after maturing for months, so again, there is no way to say X exact days of maturation. It can happen that someone made a recipe and in 1 month it was great, and then I make the same recipe and it gets bad even after months. In short, the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes. the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes. the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes.
How much time? - Well, did you notice that I said "beer clarifying / MATURING inside the fermenter"? That's right, and that's right. Maturation, that is, "ripening" of the beer, is an endless process. By the time it has stopped fermenting, it is already maturing, maturing, and then ... aging (which can be GREAT). Fermentation would be her birth. But then, how long to mature? It depends. What we normally want with the maturation is to make the beer lose the taste of GREEN aroma (like a fruit still green), and keep the taste and aroma good to drink, and again, it COMPLETELY depends on how the beer was fermented. , the type of beer, and so on. Properly fermented beers look better after just 2 weeks than badly fermented beers even after maturing for months, so again, there is no way to say X exact days of maturation. It can happen that someone made a recipe and in 1 month it was great, and then I make the same recipe and it gets bad even after months. In short, the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes. the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes. the brewer MUST learn and force himself to taste and analyze his beer to DETECT for himself whether it is already good to drink or not. Sometimes, and with the experience that we are gaining, we can detect that "well, this beer is already very good to drink, but for her to acquire that taste of dark fruits and a certain beneficial oxidation, it will still take X time", and for Here it goes.
And then something very cool comes in, and that every brewer must also learn over time, which is to MANIPULATE the maturation according to the objectives for that beer.
And then something very cool comes in, and that every brewer must also learn over time, which is to MANIPULATE the maturation according to the objectives for that beer.
Examples of things to look at when deciding how to ripen beer:
Examples of things to look at when deciding how to ripen beer:
Oxidation
Oxidation
It often happens over time because there may always be a little oxygen left in the barrel or bottle, but oxidation is usually BAD for weak (alcohol) and light (body) beers, but it can often be GOOD in strong beers, malted. The oxidation effects are tremendously diminished with the cold, so, depending on the beers we make, we can purposely leave it maturing cold, or often, hot, a very common case of Imperial Stouts.
It often happens over time because there may always be a little oxygen left in the barrel or bottle, but oxidation is usually BAD for weak (alcohol) and light (body) beers, but it can often be GOOD in strong beers, malted. The oxidation effects are tremendously diminished with the cold, so, depending on the beers we make, we can purposely leave it maturing cold, or often, hot, a very common case of Imperial Stouts.
Aroma / Freshness
Aroma / Freshness
Many beers end up being much better to drink when new due to their freshness, or hop aromas. In these cases, it is highly recommended that the brewer VERY carefully prepare the fermentation in such a way that he does not need to ripen the beer for a long time and that, as soon as the bad aromas are gone, that he can already drink it, that is, in this case, it is legal to do a cold-crash as soon as the secondary fermentation has finished and keep them very cold. "Ah, but then the Weiss lose their turbidity". That's why we shake their bottle.
Many beers end up being much better to drink when new due to their freshness, or hop aromas. In these cases, it is highly recommended that the brewer VERY carefully prepare the fermentation in such a way that he does not need to ripen the beer for a long time and that, as soon as the bad aromas are gone, that he can already drink it, that is, in this case, it is legal to do a cold-crash as soon as the secondary fermentation has finished and keep them very cold. "Ah, but then the Weiss lose their turbidity". That's why we shake their bottle.
Residual sugars / high gravity beers
Residual sugars / high gravity beers
In very strong beers, there is often a very large residual SWEET due to the excess of non-fermentable sugars. In this case, letting the beer ripen hot can be very beneficial, because even though I have never seen any article or text proving that yeast works over time consuming these sugars, in practice, I and many brewers have already seen this SWEET decrease a lot over the time of a hot maturation, which in this case, we can call Aging, or Aging (that is, a process beyond maturation), because as the beer is not cold, the yeast is "awake", and consequently aging. It's like comparing meat that you leave inside or outside the fridge. Have you heard, or seen to sell, "matured" meats? To mature meats, unlike most (which is then frozen), it is kept for several days in a cold temperature, but not freezing, causing some NATURAL enzymes to be released by the meat and soften the fibers naturally. In the case of beer, keeping it always cold, below the temperature of the yeast, it will do little over time ... it will stay there, hibernating, until it dies, if it dies. If we keep the beer at a higher temperature, in the range in which he is "awake", it is expected that he will do something over time, even if it is cannibalization (autolysis), which can also occur at very high temperatures or with unhealthy yeast. Again, there may even be some articles / material about it, but I’ve never read if it actually processes more sugars over time. IN PRACTICE, again,
In very strong beers, there is often a very large residual SWEET due to the excess of non-fermentable sugars. In this case, letting the beer ripen hot can be very beneficial, because even though I have never seen any article or text proving that yeast works over time consuming these sugars, in practice, I and many brewers have already seen this SWEET decrease a lot over the time of a hot maturation, which in this case, we can call Aging, or Aging (that is, a process beyond maturation), because as the beer is not cold, the yeast is "awake", and consequently aging. It's like comparing meat that you leave inside or outside the fridge. Have you heard, or seen to sell, "matured" meats? To mature meats, unlike most (which is then frozen), it is kept for several days in a cold temperature, but not freezing, causing some NATURAL enzymes to be released by the meat and soften the fibers naturally. In the case of beer, keeping it always cold, below the temperature of the yeast, it will do little over time ... it will stay there, hibernating, until it dies, if it dies. If we keep the beer at a higher temperature, in the range in which he is "awake", it is expected that he will do something over time, even if it is cannibalization (autolysis), which can also occur at very high temperatures or with unhealthy yeast. Again, there may even be some articles / material about it, but I’ve never read if it actually processes more sugars over time. IN PRACTICE, again,
Lagers
Lagers
Lagers are also known to benefit from long cold maturation. The very German origin of the word Lager means "to store", or in some texts that I have already read, "to store cold".
Lagers are also known to benefit from long cold maturation. The very German origin of the word Lager means "to store", or in some texts that I have already read, "to store cold".
The time needed for your beer to be good for YOU AND for the intended purpose. If you are going to serve on a barbecue for a lot of friends, many times with 1 week it will be fine ... because the crowd will enjoy a lot. The same beer, to have a chance in a Contest, may need months maturing. As well as, besides the objective, it depends on the taste of the brewer. I have tasted beers that I thought were excellent with little ripeness, but the owner still thought he should ripen more.
The time needed for your beer to be good for YOU AND for the intended purpose. If you are going to serve on a barbecue for a lot of friends, many times with 1 week it will be fine ... because the crowd will enjoy a lot. The same beer, to have a chance in a Contest, may need months maturing. As well as, besides the objective, it depends on the taste of the brewer. I have tasted beers that I thought were excellent with little ripeness, but the owner still thought he should ripen more.
Racking the beer with the yeast mixed in the bucket
Yeast inoculation
Yeast inoculation
They say that we make must, the yeast produces beer. It makes sense, because it is he who converts sugar into alcohol. It may be dry or liquid. The dry is more simple to handle, so it is the most suitable for beginners.
Do not forget that it must be added to the wort inside the fermenter tank, directly.
Fermentation process of craft beer
Fermentation process of craft beer
This is where the wort we produce will turn into beer. It is in this process that the characteristic aromas of beer are produced, as well as the formation of alcohol and CO2. In this stage, unwanted aromas are also eliminated and we must also be careful to choose the fermentation temperature, within the range of yeast activity.
Fermentation temperature
Fermentation temperature
Control is essential to ensure that the process proceeds, because the temperature will directly affect the function of the yeasts, so you must be careful and attentive.
Fermentation at higher temperatures is faster, has greater multiplication of yeasts and greater formation of higher alcohols. If you choose a lower temperature, you have a longer time but with less higher alcohols.
Thus, in general, Ales ferment at temperatures between 17 and 24 degrees, and each yeast has its most suitable temperature range. Already the beer of the Lagers family is fermented between 6 and 12 degrees and for fermentation of Lagers yeasts it is recommended to make the diacetyl rest at the end of the fermentation.
The duration of this step varies according to the temperature used, as well as the amount of sugars to be fermented.
Primary fermentation
Primary fermentation
It is the phase where the sugars are fermented by the yeast, which when the oxygen runs out, consumes the present sugar to survive and ends up converting into alcohol and CO2. To avoid problems, just control the time and use techniques to calculate the fermentation period - which in Ales lasts from 2 to 6 days and in Lagers from 4 to 10 days.
Also keep an eye on the movement of bubbles that happens in the air-lock and also measure the density as it will be an indicator that the primary fermentation of your beer is over - as all available resources have been consumed by the yeast.
Secondary fermentation
Secondary fermentation
In this phase, yeasts have already consumed a large part of the available resources and due to scarcity, they start to take advantage of what they themselves produced during primary fermentation, including unwanted products that can generate off-flavors, such as diacetyl and acetaldehyde. It is up to you to take sensory samples of the beer until unwanted aromas and tastes are no longer present in your beer.
The end of the fermentation can be measured with a density check. After that, the temperature must be reduced for greater precipitation of the yeasts at the bottom of the bucket, which will be eliminated.
After the end of fermentation, it is recommended to transfer it to a new bucket so that the residual yeast deposited on the bottom is eliminated. This process is not necessary in conical fermenters, which are valid for purging the yeast in the tank itself.
Maturation
Maturation
Maturation is not mandatory, but if you want to have a 10-grade beer, why not do a complete process instead of skipping and filling your beer? I consider it a process with many benefits for beer and that should be done right after the fermentation is finished.
Maturation has its basic functions, which are:
Sedimentation of yeast still in suspension
Formation and precipitation of cold turgidity (protein-polyphenol)
Adjustment of aromas and control of off-flavors (diacetyl, DMS, SO2,…)
CO2 saturation
“Rounding” or “smoothing”
Here, the time must be chosen according to the complexity and style of the beer. In general, more alcoholic and complex beers need a longer maturation process, reaching months in some cases and on average, maturation is at least one week, with two as a good time reference for many styles .
Regarding the temperature, it must be well below that of fermentation, precisely to interrupt this process. Therefore, Lagers mature at about 0 degrees, while ales below 10. Thus, like fermentation, higher temperatures accelerate the process during maturation, and low temperatures will help to generate a clearer beer.
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