Malay Peninsula, in Oriental Commerce

MALAY PENINSULA

THE coast between Junkceylon and Queda is fronted by numerous islands of various sizes, and inside most of the groups, and between them, there are passages for small vessels, but large ships generally sail outside. The country of Queda extends from the River Trang, in 7° 30 North, to that of Carian in 5° 10 North; its length is about 150 miles, and its breadth from 20 to 35 miles. From Trang to Purlis the coast is sheltered by many islands and sandbanks navigable for small vessels only; the entire country is exceedingly well watered, and fertile. Twenty-three rivers, all navigable for proas, and many of them for larger vessels, empty themselves into the sea; the principal of which is

PURLIS.

This river is deep and narrow, at the entrance of which is a small sandy island, on which stands a fishing village, protected by a few pieces of cannon: the bar of the river is very long, with only ten feet water upon it at spring tides; the town is situated 4 or 5 miles from this entrance, in a valley encompassed with steep hills. The old King of Queda in his latter days chose this place for his residence, which occasioned many people to resort here; but since his death it has sunk into its former obscurity. Pulo Ladda and several other islands lie to the westward of this port, about 5 leagues. The Great Ladda is inhabited by a race of Malays, who are in general great thieves, and commit frequent acts of piracy. There is exceeding good anchorage on the eastern side of them, of sufficient capacity for the largest fleet, with a plentiful supply of wood and water at hand. On the S. W. side is a harbour, where the French refitted and masted, after an engagement with Commodore Barnet in 1745.

QUEDA,

The principal seaport, is called Qualla Batrang, and is in latitude 6° North. The river is navigable for vessels of 300 tons, but its entrance is choked up by a mud bank, 2½ miles in length, with about 12 feet water in spring tides. Large ships anchor about 4 miles off', in 5 or 6 fathoms, the entrance of the river bearing E. N. E. and a mountain called the Elephant N. E. At the mouth of the river is a small brick fortress, with a few guns; the greater part of the fort is in ruins, so that the spring tides flow into it. The river is about 300 yards wide; both shores are muddy, and have swampy plains covered with jungle. Seven miles up the river is Allestar, where the King resides; all vessels that pass the bar, can go to Allestar: the river is narrow, but deep. The King's residence is in a small brick fort; the inhabitants near him are composed of Chulias, Chinese, and Malays. This place was plundered and burnt by the Buggesses in 1770; since which it has continued in a very poor state.

Queda contains about 300 houses, inhabited by Chinese, Chulias, and Malays. It was formerly a place of considerable trade; but since the establishment at. Pulo Pinang, the Malay proas have carried the greater part of their trade there, for the European and country ships bound to China.

The following account of the mode of transacting business is extracted from Elmore's Directory - " When going on shore, you land on the east side of the river, and the Captain Chinaman will report your arrival to the Shabundar, who will introduce you to the King. You must not neglect to carry a present with you, according to the quantity of goods you expect to sell, which will be but small, Queda being constantly well supplied from Pulo Pinang. However, your present should be genteel; and do not forget the Captain Chinaman and Shabundar, as they can be of great service to you, and inform you of all the customs, as well as the markets, and whether any thing is likely to be done. The King, like most other Malay Princes, engrosses almost the whole foreign trade of the port, excepting that of an annual Chinese junk, which used to come here regularly, that pays a certain sum only as duty, and then has leave to trade freely with the inhabitants."

QUALLA MOORBA

Is about 18 miles to the southward of Queda; it is a large river, deep and rapid; the water here is always fresh to the sea; the heavy surge, which breaks upon this shore during the S. W. monsoon, has, by opposing the current from the river, formed a dangerous sandbank, extending three miles out to sea, and on which there is only one fathom water. This river is, however, convenient, on account of its situation with the tin mines. The annual produce here is about 1000 peculs; this small quantity is not, however, owing to the scarcity of ore, but to the want of hands, and to the few people employed, being badly paid.

PRY RIVER

Is abreast the north point of Pulo Pinang; it has a mud bar, with 12 or 13 feet water on it in spring tides. In 1790 the King of Queda constructed a fort, and assembled a number of forces and proas for an attack upon Pulo Pinang. The English landed there, took the fort by assault, and destroyed most of the vessels. In 1800, a district of land on the banks of this river, 18 miles in length, and 3 in breadth, was ceded by the King of Queda to the East India Company in perpetuity, for which they agreed to pay him 10,000 dollars per annum. The town, which is situated at the entrance of the river, was previously a receptacle for vagrants of every description; but a number of people having resorted thither, it is expected that many beneficial consequences will arise from the acquisition.

Plan of Fort Cornwallis with the Town on the East Point of the Island.

PRINCE OF WALES'S ISLAND.

This island, called by the Malays Pulo Pinang, extends from latitude 5° 16 to 5° 30 North; it is of an irregular four-sided figure, the north side being the longest, and the south the shortest; it is near 5 leagues in length, and 7 or 8 miles in breadth. The N.W. end of the island is high uneven land; and excepting the south part, and the eastern side, where the town is built, and where there is a considerable tract of low land cultivated contiguous to the sea, the rest of the island is all high, and covered with trees. About five miles west from the fort stands a mountain, on which signals are displayed for ships approaching the island; it is 2,170 feet above the sea.

Prince of Wales's Island is separated from the Malay Peninsula by a narrow strait about two miles broad, which forms the harbour, and affords excellent anchorage for the largest ships: there is also an inner harbour, where ships may receive every kind of repair that can be performed, without going into dock.

Fort Cornwallis is built on the N. E. point of the island, and is in latitude 5° 24- North, and longitude 100° 21 East; it was originally badly constructed, and large sums have been spent upon it without completing it. On the west face there never has been any rampart; there is no parapet except on the four bastions at the angles; the ditch is narrow, and fordable in every part. The fort is incapable of defence; from its size, construction, and situation, a 74 gun ship could anchor within pistol shot, and from their tops drive away the men from their guns. No fort of any strength can be erected on the site of the present one, without destroying one half the town in order to form a glacis. In the fort are barracks for the military, the arsenal, magazine, and military storehouses. The sea has of late years made encroachments on the north face of the fort, and along the esplanade, and for upwards of a mile in that direction.

The town, called George Town by the English, and Panjang Panaique by the Malays, is of considerable extent; it is bounded on the north and east by the sea, on the south by a small river, and on the west by the high road. The streets, which cross each other at right angles, are spacious and airy; but having been at first merely lined out, without being either raised or drained, were frequently impassable after hard rain. This inconvenience has been removed, as the principal streets are now properly raised and drained, and the town has in consequence improved much in appearance and cleanliness. There is a large pier for landing and shipping goods, to which fresh water is conducted by pipes.

Since the island has become the seat of Government, considerable alterations have taken place in every department. A Government house, a church, a jail, and several substantial bridges have been built; the fortifications have been improved and strengthened, and the public roads repaired and widened.

Pulo Pinang was originally granted to the East India Company by the King of Queda, at the request of Captain Francis Light of the Country service, who had married his daughter. The Bengal Government seeing the island so peculiarly adapted as a mercantile station for vessels from all the Malay ports, the Moluccas, Borneo, Celebes, and the Philippine Islands, did not hesitate to accept the King of Queda's grant; conceiving that, by an establishment properly secured, the Bengal trade with that of China would be connected, and from the conduct of the Dutch, it became necessary to have a port where the Country ships might meet the Eastern merchants, as well for the promotion of that valuable commerce, as to afford a windward station of refreshment and repair to the King's, the Company's, and the country ships. A small detachment was accordingly sent from Calcutta, under the command of Captain Light, who took possession of the island, in the name of His Majesty, and for the use of the East India Company, on the 12th of August, 1786, and immediately commenced clearing the country, and began the construction of a small fort for the protection of the detachment against any attempts of the Malay powers, who might be instigated by the Dutch at Malacca, or induced by the fickleness of their own disposition, to cut them off. Captain Light was authorized to receive such colonists as he might judge expedient; to allot such a portion of land to each family as circumstances would admit; and, as an encouragement to trade, the port was made free to all nations.

In a very short space of time numerous adventurers flocked to the settlement, some with the intention of remaining, others merely with a view of traffic. These finding a ready sale for their goods, and meeting with the merchandise they required in return, the commerce of the port rapidly increased. A town, called George Town, was marked out, and within the year there were upwards of sixty Chinese families living in it, besides great numbers of Malays, Buggesses, and other Eastern traders. The settlements continued in a progressive state of improvement, both in regard to its population and cultivation.

In the year 1797 there were 6937 inhabitants on the island, exclusive of Europeans and the garrison; and in 1801 they had increased to 10,310. Previous to 1805, the government of the island had been considered merely as of a temporary nature. It had long been the intention of the Company to establish a regular system of administration for the island, but from various causes it was not formed. Although from the spirit of British rule, even when imperfectly administered, industry, enterprise, and improvement appeared to a great extent on the island, and its population, produce, and commerce were very respectable, yet the growth of the colony had in many ways been impeded by the want of regular government and laws; and as the inhabitants had become more numerous, that want had been more felt and complained of.

Antique print of Malacca in 1726 by Valentijn showing St. Paul's Church at the top of the hill, surrounded by the fort & Malacca river to the left.

PERA.

From the S. W. end of Prince of Wales's Island, Pulo Dinding bears S. S. E. distant about 60 miles. This island and the Sambelongs lie at the entrance of Pera River, which is in latitude about 3° 50 North. The ebb tide runs strong near the mouth of the river, where it narrows, especially after rain; it will admit of a vessel drawing 12 or 14 feet water, but the bar requires attention, being hard sand. There is but one dangerous shoal in the river. In other respects it is navigable with safety, having a continued muddy bottom up to the place where the Dutch had a factory, which they relinquished. The town of Pera, where the King resides, is about fifty miles from the sea. There is little trade here. The Dutch formerly contracted with the King for all the tin at 10 Spanish dollars a pecul; but much of it was smuggled to Pulo Pinang, by the rivers that empty themselves into the sea to the northward of Pera.

Cattle and poultry are not so cheap here as at Queda. Oysters are to be had in quantities near the river's mouth, and great plenty of excellent fish. Good water may be procured at a watering-place near the ruins of the Dutch fort, on the east side of Pulo Dinding.

SALANGORE.

The kingdom of Salangore extends from the river Bima in 3° 35' North, to Ginting River, to the eastward of Tanjong Tuan, in latitude 2° 10 North. There are several rivers which are navigable for vessels; the only one frequented by Europeans is Salangore river, in 3° 20 North, and longitude 101° 18 East The town where the King resides, is situated a short distance up the river, to which small ships occasionally proceed. You are perfectly safe in this port while in the river, and it is the only one upon the Malay Coast, except Tringano, where you are free from apprehensions for your life and property. But lying in the roads, it will be necessary to be on the alert, and ready to repel any attack made by the straggling proas that are always about, and ready to take advantage of any inattention: you should not, therefore, suffer any proas to come near after dark. It never has been known that any accident happened in the river of Salangore by a ship being cut off, as the Rajah finds it his interest to establish a good name to the port. Coming into the river, steer for the look-out house, keeping it rather on the larboard bow, and the river's mouth fairly open. It is said that the Dutch have sunk large stones across the entrance of the river, which should be guarded against. The fishing stakes may be run between, observing to keep clear of those to which nets are attached, as you may do the fishermen an injury, which they will not easily forget. You anchor off the Shabundar's house, which is on the right hand side of the river as you go in.

Upon your arrival, your first visit is to the Shabundar, who will introduce you to the Rajah. The next day you bring your musters on shore; and having made your bargain to sell, you will stipulate likewise for your returns. Should there be any Buggess proas in the river, avoid making any private bargains with them, as the King does not allow any to trade with them or the Chinese; he monopolizes all this trade, and if he finds it out, which he is certain of doing by his informers, he will ever after give a preference in trade to any body else than you.

Landing place at Malacca c. 1833-9 [source- Linda Hall Library].

MALACCA.

This city, which gives its name to the straits formed by the Malay Peninsula and the Island of Sumatra, is situated at the head of a small bay, in latitude 2° 12' North, and longitude 102° 10' East, and has a very neat and beautiful appearance from the sea. The city is large; many of the houses are of stone and well built; and several of the streets are spacious and handsome. The fort is on the south side of a small river, over which is a bridge of several arches. The church stands upon a hill, and being always kept white, is conspicuous at a great distance.

Large ships anchor with the church bearing E. 27° N. in 10 fathoms, about 1½ mile from the town. Ships' boats may proceed into the river at about three-quarters flood. In going in, keep the fort well open to the starboard, till the river is open between the fort and the houses; then steer directly in for the river, that being the deepest channel; the landing-place is on the larboard side, as soon as you enter the river, about two stones' throw from the bridge.

Malacca was first visited by the Portuguese, under Sequeira, in 1508, and they experienced a friendly reception from the King; but great jealousy arose among the commercial people of the different nations frequenting the place, especially the Arabs, which they so effectually instilled into the Prince, as soon to destroy the good understanding between him and the Portuguese, whom he did not dare attack by open force, but used every species of treachery to destroy. Finding his plots detected, he ordered the massacre of all the Europeans who were in his power. Numbers were slain, but a few were kept as hostages, to prevent the revenge of the Admiral. Albuquerque, who was then the Portuguese Governor

General, taking advantage of this quarrel, sailed from Goa in 1511, and appearing before the port of Malacca, demanded the release of his countrymen. This demand was at first refused; but after some hostilities, the King was so terrified as to send the surviving Portuguese, and offered to make peace with them upon their own terms. Those prescribed by Albuquerque were very high; he demanded leave to build a fort where he thought fit; reparation of all damages done to the Portuguese; and a sum of money equivalent to the expence of the expedition. The King absolutely refused to yield to them; whereupon hostilities recommenced on both sides, which ended in Albuquerque's attacking the city by sea and land with great fury. After an obstinate resistance, it was taken by storm, given to the pillage of the troops, and the plunder was very considerable. The Portuguese immediately erected a strong fort, and put a good garrison into it: in a very short time it became famous all over India and Europe, and from its situation, commanded the trade of the neighbouring countries.

The Kings of Acheen made repeated attempts to expel the Portuguese from Malacca, the principal of which were in 1537, in 1567, in 1615, and in 1628; and notwithstanding the resources of the Acheenese were prodigious at those periods, yet the Portuguese were successful in repelling their attacks.

In 1605 the Dutch attacked and destroyed a fleet of Portuguese vessels, consisting of 34 sail in the roads, and made an attempt upon the place, but were repulsed. In 1640 the Dutch, knowing the importance of the place, and the vast advantages accruing to the Portuguese from the possession of it, fitted out a large fleet from Batavia with a great body of land forces, and at the same time concluded an alliance with the King of Johore, who invested the place by land, while the Dutch blocked it up by sea. The Governor is accused of treachery, and to have been bribed into a surrender; but it is certain that he did not give the place up till after a gallant defence of six months against a very superior force.

The Dutch retained possession of it till the breaking out of the war with Great Britain, to whom it was surrendered on the 17th of August, 1795, since which period the establishment of Pulo Pinang, having superseded the necessity of maintaining it, as it was possessed of no natural advantages, either in point of product, trade, or harbour, the Company came to the resolution in 1805, of withdrawing the garrison and stores from Malacca and its dependencies; and, previous to the abandonment of the place, the fortifications and public works of all descriptions were completely demolished, so as to render it of the least possible value to the enemy, in case it should ever again come into his possession. Many of the inhabitants, with their families and effects, repaired to Prince of Wales's Island, and established themselves under the Company's protection.

JOHORE.

The town of Johore is about 20 miles from the entrance of the river, of which the bluff land, called Johore Hill, forms the southern side. There are two entrances into the river. It was formerly a place of considerable importance. In 1511, on the Portuguese conquering Malacca, the Sultan and principal inhabitants fled, and founded the City of Johore. In 1608 it was taken by the Portuguese, and destroyed. In the following year the Malays built another town higher up the river, which they called Batusubar, and to which the Dutch contributed, out of the plunder they obtained from the Portuguese on the Peninsula.

In 1613 the town was taken by the King of Acheen, after a siege of 29 days, who plundered it of every thing moveable, and made slaves of the inhabitants. The Dutch had at this period a factory on the river, which was involved in the war with Acheen, and several of that nation were made prisoners.

The surrounding country produces pepper, gold, tin, canes, sago, and elephants' teeth; but it is seldom visited by Europeans, the Malays bringing their produce to Pulo Pinang in their own proas.

In 1703 Captain Hamilton visited the place, and was kindly received. The King made him a present of the Island of Sincapore, situated near the entrance of the river; but he declined taking possession of it, notwithstanding its convenient situation for trade, and the surrounding country being well supplied with excellent timber and trees fit for masts.

BINTANG.

This island is situated at the entrance of the Straits of Sincapore, and is in latitude about 1° 2 North, and longitude 104° 30' East. Rhio, the principal town, is about five miles to the northward of the S. W. extreme of the island, and was formerly a place of considerable trade. The Sultan was under the controul of the Dutch; but on the capture of Malacca by the English, their influence was done away. It is seldom visited by European vessels; but Chinese junks and Malay proas from the neighbouring countries carry on a considerable trade.

PACKANGA RIVER.

The north point of this river is a bluff head land, in latitude 4° 50 North. The town was formerly a place of some note, but fell to decay, being dependent on Rhio, the place where most of the eastern trade was carried, till it came into the hands of the Dutch; it has now returned under the subjection of its native Prince, and has regained, in a small degree, its commerce. This river is very conveniently situated for trade, being deep enough at its mouth to admit vessels of 100 tons burthen.

All goods are bought and sold for Spanish dollars, and are weighed by the Chinese dotchin,

Painting of Malaka in 1750 by Didot from "Histoire générale des voyages".

Note that this colour painting is a flipped version of Valentijn's print (see above, earlier picture).

TRINGANO

Is situated at the entrance of a river, in latitute 5° 21' North, and longitude 103° 4 East. This is a place of considerable trade; the Rajah resides in a strong fort, and is very friendly to Europeans. Ships are in no danger of surprise from the inhabitants of Tringano. The usual anchorage is with the flag-staff bearing S.W. by W. the Redang Islands N. by W. distance from the mouth of the river about two miles. Ships occasionally salute the fort with nine guns, which is considered a great compliment by the Rajah, and a like number is returned.

In November this is a lee-shore, and no ships should stay in the roads; December, January, and February are the blowing months, and a heavy surf rolls in from the China seas and the Gulf of Siam. Commanders are sometimes detained on board ten days on account of the large surf on the bar, and the ship riding with three anchors a-head.

The following account of the manners and customs is extracted from Elmore's Directory:

" On your arrival, your first visit must be to the King's datoo or merchant, who will introduce you to the King, and the male part of the Royal Family. It is the custom here (as in all other eastern ports) to give a present at your first audience, which you must proportion according to the rank of the people. The King's present should not be less than the value of 50 dollars, the Prince about 50, the Shabundar and agent about 50 each; these are the only presents absolutely necessary to be given at this place. It will be proper to visit the datoo after you have seen the Royal Family: a little attention to him may be of service in the course of your business, as he can give you every information relative to the markets. At every Malay port you will find some man who has an influence with the King; keep well with him: and if you find you are likely to sell a quantity of opium, promise a chest for himself when you have done all your business; he can assist you very much by praising your opium to all the merchants; and, as he attends the weighing part for the King, you have good weight, and no trouble."

The following remarks on the Malays were made by a gentleman long conversant with them and the whole trade to the eastward:—" Though the Malays are not possessed of many virtues, they admire them in Europeans, and invariably give the preference to the man who has dealt honourably with them. Endeavour by all means to learn the language, which, with proper application, may be done in a few months. Your linguist and touchadar are often great knaves, which renders it absolutely necessary for every man to be his own linguist. When you are dealing with them, guard yourself from passion; it is common for them, when you ask 600 dollars, to offer 150; they will tell you not to be angry. Never swear; though you mean no harm to them, their jealous disposition makes them think otherwise, and it may be attended with serious consequences, particularly when expressed in anger, which is too common a case. A man of this temper they will keep in constant agitation, in order to harass him, expecting by such means he will be glad to sell, in order to get away; but when they meet with a man who, if they offer one dollar, will put on a pleasant countenance, and tell them they have an undoubted right to offer what they please, they are gratified with his behaviour, and give him the name of a sensible man. If you take a touchadar, be cautious he plays you no tricks in cleaning the gold; you should therefore always carry a bottle of aqua-fortis, which must have a glass stopper; and likewise some magnets. If you take golddust, clear it from the sand as well as possible, then put it into a glass, and drop some aqua-fortis upon it, which will destroy and turn black every thing else but the gold. Let it dry, then use your magnet; it appears in the gold like black sand, and will all stick to the magnet; practice will soon make it familiar to you. Be careful of keeping aqua-fortis, as it is easily put into fermentation, and the vapour arising therefrom may be of the most fatal consequence, by either instant death, or the loss of your sight. Never keep any thing of value on shore with you, and always remember to send off your gold-dust as you receive it: you will then be safe; for 100 dollars are sufficient to induce a Malay to assassinate you, if he can with impunity. You should likewise have a set of gold touches and stone, to try the bar-gold, which is done with the different touches, by rubbing them on the stone, and observing which the gold comes the nearest to, and value it accordingly, always taking care to cut it lengthwise and through the middle. Practice on board with your touches, and the different sorts of gold, will soon make it familiar to you."

The tin procured here is brought from Palembang or Banca, in the Malay proas. The pepper, which is the produce of the country, is good; but they often mix it with the Dutch sweepings from Palembang, which must be looked into: they will always garble it if you mention it in your contract.

The merchants may want credit for about 20 days; more they will not expect, as you should always tell them you are bound to China, that they may use dispatch. If your time will admit of it, give it them; it insures you so much sold; and it often happens they have not the pepper brought in, or gold-dust; and if you refuse them credit, the merchants, among whom the King wants to take and distribute the opium go away, and you thereby lose the sale of 30 or 40 chests: besides, you may depend upon receiving the goods as they come in. You should make it a part of your agreement to have the King's seal put upon the gold, as he will then be in some degree answerable for its quality.

Some years since the King of Tringano was anxious to have an English factory established here, and sent a proposition to that effect to the Supreme Government. If it were thought worth while to settle in any part of this coast, this should be preferred, from the attention and respect paid by the Sultan, or King, to the English in general.

This place is conveniently situated for any of the Company's ships bound to China, which are early in the season, the commanders of which are provided with opium, cutlery, or Spanish dollars.

REDANG ISLANDS.

These islands, which extend along the coast about 30 miles from 5° 30' North, to 6° 4' North latitude, belong to the Government of Tringano, and from some of which pepper, rattans, and black-wood are brought for the King's use. The inhabitants are apt to take advantage of any small vessels they can overcome. Having no convenient harbours, the islands are seldom visited by European ships.

PATANY

Is in latitude about 6° 50' North; the town is about six miles from the road, and was formerly a place of very great trade. The English established a factory here about 1610, which took off annually about 10,000 dollars value of Surat and Coromandel cloths; but the trade falling off, the factory was withdrawn in 1623. The town is surrounded with wooden palisadoes, and has a strong fort, well mounted with cannon. The houses are built of timber and bamboos, and have a mean appearance. Considerable numbers of Chinese are settled here, who carry on a trade in their own junks with Siam, CochinChina, China, and Batavia.

CALANTAN RIVER

This river is in latitude 6° 16' North, and under the Government of Tringano. The bar of the river is shoal, and there is a number of sandbanks inside, on which boats will ground. Ships sometimes touch here to procure pepper. The anchorage is with the river bearing south, about three miles distance. The coast from hence stretches westward into the Gulf of Siam; the principal place in which is

LIGORE,

About 12 leagues to the northward, between which is a low island called Papier. The anchorage is about two leagues from the river. About a league within the river's mouth the Dutch had formerly a factory. The town stands about two miles above the factory; it is built of bamboos covered with reeds. There are many temples with small steeples, which at a distance appear like ships' masts. This place is under the Siamese Government. There used to be a great trade carried on upon this part of the coast; but of late years, in consequence of the unsettled state of the country, it has been discontinued. The Malay proas carry on what little trade there is between it and Juthia, the capital of Siam.