33 Days on the road
2379.3 Miles
385.47 Gallons of gas
$1610 Gas money
$3.56 Average cost per gallon of gas
6.17 Miles per gallon
$.68 Cost per mile
2417 Miles
$485 Gas money
$.20 Cost per mile
Under the cover of a hot and humid night, we loaded the RV and finally got on the road to Colorado a little after midnight. After mechanical difficulties, repair costs ($300 towing + 3,077 RV + $570 Jeep = Yikes!), and a week delay we left St. Louis with a hint of anxiousness, our fingers crossed, and anticipation of a great trip. As Lars drove over the night, I awoke in the morning to crisp Kansas morning (58 degrees with an 11 mph wind).And this is how to tow a 19,000 pound RV (the week before).
Our first official night of camping was in the Pine National Forest between Woodland, Colorado and Buena Vista, Colorado.
We took a little afternoon hike to get a bird’s eye view of camp spot. Look closely to see the RV and Jeep.
We also found a great place to sit outside and enjoy the mountains (unfortunately Pikes Peak was behind us and not in front of us), but we did have a freshly brewed beer and a pretzel as an appetizer.
On our way to Cripple Creek we took the Skyline Drive, why take the highway when you can take path less taken?
Our next leg of the trip to Cripple Creek was by way of Phantom Canyon drive, where we wound our way through a one lane, red rock road and various tunnels into the old mining towns of Victor and Cripple Creek. This road was once the railroad bed during the gold mining times.
Why go to Cripple Creek you may ask?
In 1890 gold was found in Poverty Gulch, which is now Cripple Creek. Between 1890 and 1910 it was known as the world’s largest gold camp with more than 22.4 million ounces of gold extracted from over 500 mines. In today‘s dollars that is about 11.2 billion in gold. Today, you can eat, drink, gamble, shop in boutiques and explore the gold mines via tour or museum. We opted for the food and drink… but thought about winning a motorcycle in one of the casinos. As Lars would say, “only in a America” would you find a 24k bike.
Monday was a travel day, where we checked in at an Snowy Peaks RV park, ate a great steak dinner at Quincy’s, and then went to Bongo Billy’s for some ice lattes. We also scouted out our next mountain camping venue. We found a great spot in the San Isabel National Forest called Collegiate Peaks camp ground.
June 14th Collegiate Peaks Campground
This campground was made for total relaxation, no cell phone service or internet, no electric, and no running water close by, unless you count the stream rushing by our campsite.
There was the buzz of hummingbirds at our RV window, larger than life rabbits (snow hares), and cool breezes off the snowcapped mountains. We liked it so much we have decided to stay until Sunday.
Our neighbors down on campsite 5 were a little shy, but we still got their photo.
Lars created a Jeep loop of about 115 miles that would include Cottonwood Pass, Taylor Reservoir, and several campgrounds for us to scout out for the next RV spot.
There was still plenty of snow when you were above 10,000 feet.
Cottonwood Pass, just outside of Buena Vista.
Taylor Reservoir – Recreational Area
Lakeview Camp Ground in the Gunnison National Forest…potentially the next camp spot.
We were also quite fascinated by the snow sculptures created by the melting snow.
On the way to Tin Cup Pass we explored several campgrounds in the National Forest, went by Cascade Falls, and through the small, the very small town of St. Elmo.
St. Elmo consisted of a General Store, ATV shop, and a Ghost Town Bed & Breakfast, but the most entertaining part of the town was the fearless chipmunks and humming birds.
The chipmunks were helping Lars with the photography of their friends.
Up close and personal with the chipmunks.
This chipmunk has definitely not missed a meal.
It was about 6 miles to the top of Tin Cup Pass, we were within about a mile and half, but then the snow became too much of a barrier. We attempted the snow but sliding sideways is not good life choice on an undersized, rocky road, so we retreated. It was still a fun afternoon adventure.
The vast numbers of humming birds were so use to tourist that they would rest long enough around the feeders for non-blurry pictures to be taken.
On Friday we spent time around the RV and admired the beauty of the campground.
Another Jeeping Day
Today we revisited the historic town of Winfield, where we stayed the last time we were in the area (Ahh yes, the 12 miles of road to get back to Winfield… this is the place where we lost a transmission four years ago.) It was still as pretty as ever, but now they have signs that say for 4X4 vehicles (not 37’ RVs).
After Winfield we headed toward Independence Pass that takes you over the mountains to Aspen. Our purpose was not to go to Aspen but to see the Twin Lakes area and see what kind of camping it had to offer.
After Twin Lakes we headed for Leadville where we had spent about 5 days on a previous trip due to the transmission repair to the RV. Leadville is one of the highest inhabited cities in the contiguous United States (at just over 10,000 feet) and the view was 180 degrees of snow-capped mountains. Gorgeous! Mountains for as far as you could see…looking left, center, and right.
We ended today’s journey by going to the well-known Silver Dollar Saloon which was established in 1897. Good burgers, beer, and tunes were on tap for the rest of the afternoon.
Third time's a charm…Quincy’s Steak House! Yes, we were there 3 times in less than a week. On Sunday thru Thursday they serve filet mignon, filet mignon, or filet mignon...your choice. That is the only thing they offer for dinner but you do get your choice of 6oz, 9oz, 12oz, or 15oz. So, of course you order the 15oz for $15! They have this down, make one thing and make it the best…it is absolutely delicious, and with the left-overs you get a great steak-n-egg omelet in the morning.
Today we set out to go up to Tin Cup Pass but from the other side of the mountain, and once again DENIED. The road disappears into the lake in three spots, the first spot we went through but the next two looked a little too deep for a Jeep that was not equipped with a snorkel.
However, the trip up to Tin Cup Pass was worth the view at Mirror Lake.
You could also camp at Mirror lake, but your picnic bench might have been a little frosty (good for keeping the Heineken cold).
So we decided to try Cumberland Pass, the owner of the general store in the tiny town of Tin Cup said you could make it over this pass if you have a shovel and are ambitious enough …no such luck at 12,000 feet we were stopped by the snow drift over the road.
We were also not so inclined to tunnel our way through the snow, even though we were within 1500 feet from the top.
If those two attempts were not enough adventure, we decided to take the back way to the town of Gunnison (where I had thoughts of eating Chinese for lunch). According to the GPS we were on an off roading trail, but soon we would be on just a trail. Ummm, a trail made for ATVs.
We may have to change the license plates to MT MULE (Mountain Mule).
n the 7 years that we have been off-roading in the many different forests, we have never been on a trail with such large boulders and narrow passages. At 1 - 2 mph it was going to take us a while to get out of the woods. I could walk faster on portions of the trail…therefore taking pictures and video of the excursion from outside of the Jeep.
Once we were back on pavement (we did make it to Gunnison…and yes, I did get Chinese food, for dinner), we still had to move slowly because it was time for the cows to come home. There were a couple of miles of different herds all heading the same way.
Oh, and just for fun ... if we win the lottery, I kind of like this house we passed on the way back to the RV from Gunnison.
And our final plan of the day was for the Vacation Enthusiast to enjoy some of his favorite things about camping… a view of the mountains, a fire and some Johnsonville cheese bratwursts.
We left the RV bright eyed (7:30am) and ready for day of Jeeping and hiking. Copper Lake (elevation 11,350)via the Copper Creek Trail was our destination, where we would do an 8.5 mile (round trip) hike. The brochure said, “Famous hike with a gradual ascent. Pristine alpine lake awaits.” This was also considered to be moderate level hiking experience… no problem! Besides we hiked 17 miles to see half dome in Yosemite and that was marked as a strenuous hiking level of difficulty.
On our way we passed through Crested Butte, a ski town with eclectic shops, eateries and beautiful scenery.
In order to get to the parking lot of the Copper Creek Trailhead, a 4x4 is recommended. Notice that the wheels kind of look like chocolate covered donuts or is that just my thinking?
To me a hike implies that there is an intended path in order to reach your destination. However, our first obstruction away from the path was the rushing water in the creek bed.
The hike was about to turn into mountain trekking expedition, since we needed to navigate a lot of different terrain in order to reach our destination.We crossed over 2 rock slide sites (I didn’t like when the big rocks would wiggle while passing over them…but Lars, The Billy Goat Lindskog, cruised right across). On the GPS Lars marked those with tomb stones (kind of fitting).
We also went through 3 avalanche areas where it we were fighting with the bushes and trees that were down. This wasn’t so bad on the way up, but on the way back when our legs felt like lead, it was a little more difficult to crawl over the obstacles.
The last 1-1/2 miles of the journey was in packed snow. Well, not all of the snow was packed; sinking to knee height snow (and occasionally hip high snow) didn’t make it any easier.
Today's Dialog
Lars would ask, “Should we turn back?”
I would say, “How close are we?"
His response, “...1/2 mile, 1/3mile and then 1/4 mile.”
I would say, “No, we are too close not to see it.”
6 hours later...We made it!
Suggestion: Wait until the snow has melted (probably mid to late July) when there is actually a hike path to take!
Without a GPS device, I don’t think the lake would have been found.
Suggestion: Wait until the snow has melted (probably mid to late July) when there is actually a hike path to take! Without a GPS device, I don’t think the lake would have been found.
We made it back to the RV at about 8:30pm (20:30) with pizza box in hand from The Brick Oven in Crested Butte. Thank goodness for meat-lovers pizza-to-go!
Why leave the RV when we can relax and look at views like this?
Our first thought was to go to The Castles, rock formations that take the shape of castles via the Ohio pass. Nope not today...too much snow!
Ok, ok, so we will go to Irwin Lake and see the campground & picnic area.
We didn't make it all the way to Irwin campground...
So we shall go to Lost Lakes, nope... road closed to campground due to renovation. How about Emerald Lake, nope... not when there is snow from an avalanche.
Should we cross or not? Jeep snorkel?
Since we can't seem to get where we are going, let's play...guess the carcass...any thoughts?
Once we were finished with our Jeeping we went into the town of Crested Butte and enjoyed the parade of people in costume riding bicycles and a cold beverage on a warm patio.
Today we left Lakeview and the Gunnison National Forest, traveled through Blue Mesa Recreation Area and then took the North rim of the Black Canyon up to Grand Mesa National Forest.
Blue Mesa Recreation Area
Gunnison River as it winds through Black Canyon with the San Juan mountain chain in the background.
Colorado traffic jam on the way to Grand Mesa.
The trip up to Grand Mesa took a little longer, Due to the steepness and altitude climb, we had to let the RV cool down two different times … the engine and transmission ran hot, warning gauges are a good thing. The views were worth the wait, this is just one of the many lookouts near the top of Grand Mesa.
Island Lake, one of the many lakes we passed on the way to Jumbo campground (which had just opened last week, due to snow).
Today we headed out to see the back country of Grand Mesa. This is the view from Land’s End
While at the observation point, Lars met Chip and Dale who loved the sunflower kernels he had to offer.
From Crater View you are able to see Land’s End which is a large mesa/peninsula that you are able to look and see Grand Junction below.
After leaving Crater View we headed down the rough, 4X4 trail only to find patches of snow. Hmmm…it was a little too much snow for the (blue mule) jeep…yes, stuck again. The mud puddles were fine, but not the hard packed snow. Three of four wheels had no grip, since the frame of the jeep was resting on top of the snow. No handy shovel or gloves to speak of…until some nice ATVer’s came and helped bail us out. Lets just say we struggled for about an hour and half.
We came down from Grand Mesa (10,000ft) to Highway 70 (5,000ft) where it was in the mid 90’s, yuck. However the scenery on Highway 70 around Glenwood is stunning with the steep rock walls on both sides and the Colorado River flowing along aside, it is definitely a great view. You also get to tunnel through the mountains, which felt somewhat cooler.
We arrived at our new camp spot in the Arapaho National Forest on Granby Lake. There were several campgrounds, but we opted for Sunset Point in Rainbow Bay. The campground is approximately ½ between the town of Granby and Grand Lake.
Today, June 29th, we Jeeped around the towns of Granby, Grand Lakes, and Arapaho National Forest. Our thoughts were to take a ride (2hours) to Steamboat Springs but the weather turned to stormy in the afternoon.
Eagle’s nest in Willow Creek
They say that weather in the mountains can change fast, be prepared. Wow, they weren’t kidding. We saw dark clouds across the lake, but all of sudden the winds picked up and it was so strong that it knocked out about 20 Lodge Pole Pines from the root.
Not only were trees down, but one of those pines landed on top of the Jeep (better than on the RV). Luckily, there was only a little roof damage. The forest rangers that came around to check on the safety of the campers and assess the damage said that this kind of wind was rare.
For the next few hours we heard the sounds of chain saws and generators. There we canopies and tents that were headed for the dumpsters after the storm. Once the forest department workers removed the tree, we were able to repair the roof with a little duct tape (glad the roof on the Jeep is gray…it’s a good match).
The weather was stunning, so we hung out at the camp site enjoying the sun (and charging batteries with solar panels) and the lake.
It was a lazy day of peeking through the binoculars at hawks and pelicans hunting and catching fish, people watching the boaters, and watching the clouds build up in the mountains.
We tried to Jeep around to view Elk and Grouse Mountain, Coral Peeks (on route CR 21) and Stillwater Pass… nope too much snow or the roads were washed out, so we opted for going to Steamboat Springs (where it was a little too toasty for us …86 degrees) for the day. On the way back we waited around to see the fireworks in Granby, where we saw a great sunset. After waiting awhile, we decided to go back to the campground to see if we could view them from there.
We traveled to the town of Grand Lake where we strolled around until the afternoon rains would come. On the way we say great views like this one of Lake Granby (Lake Granby, Shadow Mountain Reservoir and Grand Lake are all next to each other).
As we rolled into Rocky Mountain National Park, I couldn’t think of anything more majestic for celebrating the July 4th holiday.
Elk is very prevalent in the park since there are no real natural predators (at the moment).
This is Kawuneeche Valley as you enter the park from the Grand Lake entrance station.
The Never Summer Mountains Chain
The view from the large RV windshield.
Lava Cliffs viewed from the Trail Ridge Road near the Alpine visitors center (12,183 ft).
Once we were able to locate a camp spot in Glacier Basin (all reservable sites are booked solid), we headed to the town of Estes Park to meet up with another camping buddy from Missouri, eat Thai food and watch the fireworks display over Lake Estes.
We headed for the famed Stanley hotel, where we heard that was where the movie The Shining was filmed… not so …that is where the idea came about as a result of Steven Spielberg being a guest there. Later the TV mini-series was shot on location there. Then we headed for the main part of town, where we found rainbow trout at Claire’s for breakfast and went about our shopping exploits.
We had a nice picnic along the Poudre River at a roadside park.
Views from the drive into the Roosevelt National Forest and along the canyon walls and riverside camping areas on CR14.
Hey, you know the Rocky Boys (Mount Rushmore)…well, what president is this? No, this is Profile Rock in Poudre County, CO.
Sunrise at Glacier Basin Campground (spot 140)
Today we decided to hike around Bear Lake and up to Emerald Lake. On the way we were able to enjoy Nymph Lake and Dream Lake as well. About ½ way around Bear Lake (elevation 9,475 ft)
Nymph Lake (elevation 9,700 ft) had a magnificent reflection of the mountains.
Dream Lake (elevation 9,900 ft) was like so clear that you could see the Rainbow Trout.
So, close to Lar's plate, yet so far away… no license, no fishing.
Keep on hiking Viking.
Emerald Lake (elevation 10,080 ft) still a little frozen.
Before leaving RMNP, our early morning mission was to see the elk and moose that hang around the Beaver Pond area on the other side of the park.
We traveled back over the Trail Ridge Road, where we stopped and created a now (2011) and then (circa 1933) photo of The Great Rock Cut just past the highest point of the road at 12,183 ft.
We were also hoping to take the Old Fall River Road, which is rough, steep and perfect for a jeeping experience. We had heard it doesn’t usually open until the beginning of July, so we reversed our vacation order in hopes of driving this back road that parallels Trail Ridge Road. Didn’t happen, when we talked to the Ranger, she said it may not open at all this year because the road is pretty washed-out and worse than usual because of the high snow fall totals.
We came back to the campground(I love the waterfalls on the road to Grand Basin), packed up our stuff and headed for the last night of camping in the Roosevelt National Forest (near Boulder) called Meeker Park.
Since we will drive over the night to get back to St. Louis, we decided to view a few more canyon roads, Longs Peak, and any animals we could find.
St. Malo Church on Hwy 7 near Meeker Park
Longs Peak is the last of the 14teeners (elevation 14,256 ft) going north in the Rocky Mountains, including Canada. The thought of hiking this mountain was more hours than we had left of vacation (and I am sure you would need snow shoes… I think we will wait until another trip).
As we were leaving Roosevelt National Forest we did see a couple of animals at the Meeker Park picnic area, one male bear and one female elk…who knew that they would play so nicely together.
Time to head home.