Last updated: 29 March 2010

WARNING! - updated 05/10/09

We felt that we should not wait any longer before publishing these instructions. However, as yet, our U builds are not complete and, in particular, they are not running. So, please treat these instructions with some caution. Do let us know if you have any comments or particular problems with the kit, preferably by emailing me as below.

We will update these instructions as we progress.

Our thanks go to Peter Bossom for the following comments. Peter has built the N in 12mm gauge but most of his comments also apply to the U.

"For 12mm gauge, there are discrepancies in the width of the spacers. If you use the wider end spacers and adapt the others from the 14.2 versions then Branchlines bearings are definitely required and there is very little clearance over the rims.

If you use Bruce Hoyle (or similar) jigs then the central upstand on all the springs needs to be reduced in height before they are fitted.

Brake cross beams are too wide, but 0.45mm wire can be substituted.

Motor / gearbox choice in 12mm is restricted and I have installed a Highlevel Slimliner + three stage box as it is the only one I have that sets the motor high enough to clear the frames. However the final drive on this box is to one side and fouled the cast brake cylinders. These needed a flat filing on one side so that they fitted properly but they are off now and not likely to go back.

There is no provision made for fitting wiper type pickups. It is either plungers, or use the American method. This applies to either gauge.

The cab floor tongue (part 21) and the fold down tabs on the footplate (part 2) foul the chassis sideframes when using the 12mm chassis spacing. I cured this by reducing the height of the rear frame by about 1.5mm deep and some 6mm long. This is really best carried out before the wheels are fitted as it gets very close to the rear wheel flange !

The front buffer mounting spigots foul the upper half of parts 80/81. Cure by removing the spigot or the top half of the chassis parts as thought fit. This also applies in 14.2mm gauge.

Motor clearances are tight and it is important that the Safety valve mounting spigot does not protrude into the firebox. I have used a Finney & Smith 14.5mm motor mounted vertically and it just fits.

There is very little room on the rear spacer for the tender drawbar bolt plus the body fixing bolts so I removed the latter nuts and mounted the nut for the former on the body under the cab floor (before the rest of the floor was fitted !!)

The locating marks on the tender drag beam are misaligned. Check the alignment of the tender chassis / floor mounting points before soldering the nuts in place. I found mine to be misaligned.

Not an issue but worth pointing out, if you are using the 3 toolbox config for the tender the centre tool box door is smaller than the other two. Not by much, but enough and the instructions do not mention this. I got mine right more by luck than anything else !

If you are building a scale kit in 12mm gauge, then some compromises are necessary and the instructions need to be interpreted to suit !"

Peter also noted that a 12mm version of the spacer P7 for the pony truck has not been included. The 14.2 version could be adapted and the length of the brake cross beams could be reduced to suit 12mm gauge.

We would be interested to know if Peter's choice of motor/gearbox will also suit the U in 12mm gauge.

Introduction - updated 4/12/06

The 7mm instructions are included with the 3mm kit. The 3mm kit has been built following the 7mm instructions except as described here. The notes follow the format of the 7mm instructions. References of the form DAnn refer to the corresponding paragraph nn in the 7mm instructions. The numbering of the etched parts in the 7mm kit has been maintained but new part numbers have been allocated to the 3mm specific etched parts and castings.

The 3mm kit was built for 14.2mm gauge using Finney & Smith bespoke wheels and small crankpins although the kit has been developed with 12mm gauge in mind.

We would welcome constructive suggestions for improvements to this kit both with respect to its accuracy and ease of assembly, preferably by emailing me as below.

We would like to thank David Andrews for providing us with the opportunity to use his 7mm kit as the basis for this development.

John Bateman and John Walker

4 December 2006

Parts Lists - updated 29 March 2010

The David Andrews etched parts are described in his instructions. Additional versions of the following parts are included for 12mm gauge:

Locomotive

• • C. Spacer, cylinders

  • D. Spacer, rear

  • E. Spacer, pony pivot

  • F. Spacer, horizontal

  • G. Spacer, vertical

  • H. Spacer, front

  • M. Outer motion bracket, LH

  • N. Outer motion bracket, RH

  • WW. Spacer, plain

  • P1. Pony truck frame

  • P7. Truck front plate

  • 77. Cylinder frame

Parts C and D in the original frets are wider than the other 12mm gauge spacers. Replacement parts are included in a separate etch with part P7. Please email me as below if you are working to 12mm gauge and you have not received the new parts.

Parts M and N were not included in some kits. Our apologies if you have not received them yet. They are available separately. Please email me as below.

Tender

• • C. Spacer, rear

  • D. Spacer, front

  • E. Spacer, centre

In addition to the David Andrews etches the 3mm kit includes a Supplementary Etch in 0.010" nickel silver and white metal castings.

Supplementary Etch

In my notes I have appended an S to the part numbers on the Supplementary Etch. Parts referenced in parentheses are not numbered on the etch. I hope you can spot them!

• • S1 Lower slidebar (top and bottom laminates)

  • S2 Lower slidebar centre laminate (slot to front)

  • S3 Slidebar spacers (3 each end)

  • S4 Upper slidebar (top and bottom laminates)

  • S5 Crosshead top (left and right)

  • S6 Crosshead spacers (8), not symmetrical, holes slightly nearer top

  • S7 Valve guide, not symmetrical, hole at rear towards bottom (2)

  • S8 Combination lever, not symmetrical, oil filler towards rear (left and right)

  • S9 Combination lever washers

  • S10 Crosshead bottom (2)

  • S11 Valve connector, extension to inside top (left and right)

  • S12 Valve guide front plates - (2 x 2 alternatives)

  • S13 Valve guide front plate spacer (2)

  • S14 Crosshead link (2)

  • S15 Connecting link washers (full and half etched)

  • S16 Cylinder face drilling jig

  • (S17) Motion bracket centre laminate (2)

  • S18 Firehole door mechanism for whitemetal backhead

  • (S19) Cab seat (2)

  • S20 Gauges, layer 4

  • S21 Gauges, layer 3

  • S22 Gauges, layer 5 - front

  • S23 Gauges, layer 2 - back

  • S24 Gauges, layer 1 - spacer

  • S25 Plate for firebox washout plugs (RHS)

  • S25a Alternative plate for firebox washout plugs (RHS)

  • S26 Plate for firebox washout plugs (LHS)

  • S26a Alternative plate for firebox washout plugs (LHS)

  • S27 Jig for bending wires for washout plug plates

  • S28 Plates for optional boiler washout plugs (front left and front right)

  • S28a Alternate plates for boiler washout plugs

  • (S29) Coupling hooks. My thanks to Andrew Thomas for letting me use his artwork for the coupling hooks.

  • Front rods (U and N) - LHS outer

  • Front rods (U and N) - LHS inner

  • Front rods (U and N) - RHS inner

  • Front rods (U and N) - RHS outer

  • Rear rods (N) - LHS inner

  • Rear rods (N) - LHS outer

  • Rear rods (N) - RHS outer

  • Rear rods (N) - RHS inner

  • Rear rods (U) - LHS inner

  • Rear rods (U) - LHS outer

  • Rear rods (U) - RHS outer

  • Rear rods (U) - RHS inner

  • Crankpin washers

Whitemetal Castings

Boiler and cab (14 parts)

Cylinders (18 parts)

Footplate and chassis (14 parts)

4000 Gallon Tender (15 parts)

In the picture the front and middle strips have been fitted. The rear strip is ready for fitting. The strip in the pin chuck awaits filing to fit.

Laminate the brake shoes with a 0.4mm pin through the brake shoe. Leave the bottom hole in the hanger clear for a 0.4mm NS wire. Leave the top hole clear for a 0.5mm NS wire.

The full etch collars around the top hole in the hangers have been added to improve the etching of the hole. They should be filed back to reduce the hanger to the thickness of two half-etches.

Fold up the hanger brackets and fit a 0.86mm OD (0.5mm ID) tube between the back of the hanger and the back of the bracket with a 0.5mm NS wire through hanger, tube and bracket. Cut the wire to represent the pivot at the front of the bracket. Cut the wire at the back to fit the tube previously soldered into the frame. In the final assembly this wire is soldered into the bracket but not into the frame so that the brackets, brake hangers and rods can be removed as a complete sub-assembly.

DA27 Reversing shaft - added 20/10/08

I used supposedly 0.9mm nickel silver wire for the reversing shaft although I measured it as 0.85mm.

DA30-31 Coupling rods - added 4/12/06

The Supplementary Etch includes replacement coupling rods. They are hinged on the centre crankpin for easier assembly and are slightly thinner than the David Andrews' etches providing much needed clearance between the slidebars. Note that the Supplementary Etch includes rods for both the U and N classes and most of the parts are handed. The inner laminates of the coupling rods are plain. The outer laminates are fluted.

The crankpin holes have been etched to 1mm diameter to accommodate a variety of potential solutions for crankpins. The following describes one solution.

There is very little clearance between the slidebars for the front crankpins. In order to maintain maximum clearance the front crankpins need to be flush with the outside of the coupling rods.

Clear the front hole in the inner laminate of the front coupling rod using a 1mm drill. Similarly clear the hole in one of the small 1mm washers. Using the 1mm drill to align the holes solder the washer to the back of the coupling rod. Open the hole progressively using a 1.1mm and then a 1.2mm drill. Solder a 1.2mm OD 0.8mm ID tube into the hole and file flush with the faces of the washer and coupling rod.

Make up a pin by soldering a piece of 1.2mm tube to form the head on a 0.8mm NS wire. The head will be filed back so that it fits flush into the front hole of the outer coupling rod laminate.

Open the front hole in the outer laminate of the front coupling rod progressively using 1mm, 1.1mm, 1.2mm and finally a 1.3mm drill. Clamp the outer laminate to the inner laminate using the pin in the front hole to maintain the correct alignment. Remove the pin and solder the laminates together.

Clean up and file the cusps back so that the line between the laminates disappears.

File the head of the pin back so that it fits flush into the front hole of the coupling rod.

Using this method the crankpin hole in the wheel needs to be drilled out to 1.2mm and bushed with 1.2mm tube. The tube is glued into the wheel and then the pin is glued into the tube, ideally from behind. This will be easier if the additional etch for Beams and Driving Wheel Springs is used (see Compensation Beams and Driving Wheel Springs for SR/BR U Class 2-6-0)

DA32-37 Pony truck - updated 12/06/09

Two versions of the pony truck frame (P1) are provided, one for 14.2mm and one for 12mm gauge. The truck front plate (P7) needs to be filed back to fit the pony truck frame for 12mm gauge.

DA38 Cylinder frame (77) and wrappers (78) - updated 12/06/09 - to be completed

Two versions of the cylinder frame (77) are provided, one for 14.2mm and one for 12mm gauge. The 12mm version is too wide at the top. It needs to be filed back so that it will fit down between the frames on top of spacer C as shown in the first picture below. Alternatively Peter Bossom chose to reduce the height of the frames at that point as shown in the second picture.

You might find Handling Small Tubes useful for what follows.

Open the holes in the cylinder frame (77) as follows:

• • Cylinder holes: 1.6mm diameter (to fit 1.6mm OD, 1.2mm ID tube)

  • Valve chest holes: 1.2mm diameter (to fit 1.2mm OD, 0.86mm ID tube)

Cut tubes to fit the cylinder holes slightly over length. They will be filed flush with the face of the cylinder frame later.

Cut tubes to fit the valve chest holes slightly over length.

After assembly they will be filed back to protrude as follows:

• • Valve chest front: 0.25mm to locate valve end

  • Valve chest rear: 0.95mm to finish flush with rear of valve end

For additional strength and accuracy cut internal tubes to fit over these tubes and between the inner faces of the cylinder frame as follows:

• • Internal valve chest tube: 1.2mm ID

  • Internal cylinder tube: 1.6mm ID

Check that the 3 holes in the bottom of the cylinder wrappers (78) have etched through. If not drill out 0.3mm. Assemble the cylinder frame and wrappers as described in DA38 fitting the tubes before fitting the wrappers. File the tubes in the cylinder holes flush with the face of the cylinder frame. File the tubes in the valve chests so that they protrude as specified above.

Clear the holes through the cylinders to fit 1.2mm OD (0.86mm ID) tubes. Cut tubes slightly overlength. The finished sizes will need to be as follows:

• • Cylinder front: 0.25mm to locate cylinder front cover (but see below)

  • Cylinder rear: 2.3mm to finish flush with cylinder rear cover

The plain front cylinder covers have not cast very well and have not been used in the test builds. They have been included with some of the kits but an etched version is under development to replace them. It is suggested that if they are used the spigot be reduced to 1.2mm diameter and filed down to act as a locator in the front of the cylinder tube, which should be filed flush with the cylinder front.

The spigot in the front cylinder cover with tail rod cover should be removed and the hole opened up to 1.2mm to fit over the tube in the cylinder. The etched version of the plain cover will probably fit in the same way.

Position the cylinder face drilling jig (S16) over the cylinder tubes protruding from the rear face of the cylinder frame. Use the holes in the jig to drill 0.3mm holes in the rear face of the cylinder frame. These holes will be used later to locate the slidebar and rear cylinder cover.

Drill the cylinder rear covers 1.2mm to fit over the 1.2mm tubes. The tube should finish flush with the rear face of the cover but don�t file it with the cover in place or you will destroy the detail on the casting. Drill through the 0.3mm hole in the casting above the piston tube. This should align with the hole already drilled in the rear face of the cylinder cover.

Clear the holes through the valve chests and fit 0.86mm OD (0.5mm ID) tubes. Cut the tubes slightly overlength. The finished sizes will be as follows:

• • Valve chest front: 0.25mm to locate valve end

  • Valve chest rear: 0.95mm to finish flush with rear of valve end

Drill the four valve ends 1.2mm. Position the valve ends on the tubes at the back of the valve chests and file the tubes flush with the face of the valve ends. At the front the tubes should protrude sufficiently to locate the valve ends leaving sufficient depth in the holes in the valve ends to locate the valve front covers.

Front cylinder cover?

DA39 Slidebars, crossheads and rear cylinder covers - to be completed

In 7mm David Andrews supplies castings for the rear cylinder covers (136), which include the lower slidebars, upper slidebars (137) and crossheads (138). In 3mm the upper and lower slidebars, the slidebar spacers and the crossheads are fabricated from parts on the supplementary etch as described below. Castings are provided for the rear cylinder covers.

The following subassemblies are produced before checking clearances and final assembly:

• • Lower slidebar with front spacer

  • Upper slidebar with rear spacer

  • Crosshead spacers

  • Crosshead

The lower slidebar is made up from 3 laminations: top (S1), centre (S2) and bottom (S1). The slot should be to the front of the centre laminate. Thread 0.3mm NS wire through the holes to locate the laminations. Later the wire in the front hole will be filed flush on the underside of the slidebar. It should protrude far enough on top to fit 3 spacers (S3) and the upper slidebar as well as represent a rivet on the top slidebar. Solder the laminations together at the front capturing the wire. Remove the wire at the rear and complete the soldering of the laminations. Clear 0.3mm hole at the rear of the slidebar and the 0.3mm slot in the centre lamination at the front of the slidebar. File 2 flats on a piece of 0.3mm NS wire and solder it into the slot in the centre laminate. This wire will feed through the cylinder cover to locate in the hole previously drilled in the cylinder frame. Thread 3 spacers (S3) on to the wire at the front of the slidebar. Leave the tabs on the spacers while they are soldered in place to give you something to hold on to. Final cleaning up of the slidebar should be left until it is fitted to the crosshead.

The upper slidebar is made up from 2 laminations: top (S4 with half etch ends) and bottom (S4 no half etch). For total accuracy the top laminate should be filed at an angle to join the half etch and full etch. Thread 0.3mm NS wire through the holes to locate the laminations. The wire in the rear hole should protrude far enough on top to represent a rivet and underneath to thread 3 spacers (S3) and the lower slidebar. Solder the laminations together at the rear capturing the wire. Remove the wire at the front and complete the soldering of the laminations. Clear the 0.3mm hole at the front of slidebar. Thread 3 spacers (S3) on to the wire at the rear of the slidebar. Leave the tabs on the spacers while they are soldered in place to give you something to hold on to. Check that the upper slidebar fits the lower slidebar noting that the upper slidebar is wider than the lower slidebar to the outside of the loco. Final finishing should be left until the slidebars are fitted to the crosshead.

Remove the crosshead bottom (S10). The crosshead bottom has a top, two sides and a front. All the holes need to be a tight fit for their respective NS wires as follows: Top: 0.3mm for dowels to locate crosshead top Front: 0.5mm for locating wire in piston rod Sides: 0.5mm for pivot through front of connecting rod 0.3mm for pivot through connecting link

The crosshead bottom is aligned with the crosshead top using 0.3mm dowels. Solder short pieces of 0.3mm NS wire into the holes in the top of the crosshead bottom to form the dowels. Clean up the underside of the top of the crosshead bottom and fold down the sides and front. Run a small fillet of solder into the folds and join between the top, front and sides?

Remove the crosshead top (S5). The 10 holes at the top of the sides and the 2 holes in the bottom should be a tight fit for 0.3mm NS wire. Locate the crosshead top on the crosshead bottom using the locating dowels already soldered into the crosshead bottom. Solder top to bottom being careful not to get solder in the fold lines of the crosshead top. Clean up the top side of the crosshead top. This is a running surface for the slidebars.

Thread 0.3mm NS wires through the holes in the extensions on one of the outer spacer laminations attached to the fret edge (S6 Top). Keep this lamination attached to the fret edge, which provides a means to hold the spacer as it is assembled. Remove each of the 3 spacer laminations adjacent to the outer one and thread their extensions on to the 0.3mm wires being careful to maintain the same orientation as in the fret. The spacers are not symmetrical, the holes being slightly closer to the top. Clear the 5 holes through the spacer with a 0.3mm drill and then solder the 4 laminations together. Clear the 5 holes again. Cut the extensions from the assembled spacer and clean up the ends and bottom edges. Note that the bottom edge forms a running surface against the top of the bottom slidebar.

If you have not done so already remove this section of the fret edge with the spacer attached from the fret and, using this as a �handle� slide the spacer into the top of the crosshead. Clear the holes through the crosshead and spacer and thread 0.3mm NS wires. The wires will be finished flush at the back of the crosshead but leave enough protruding from the front to represent nuts.

Slide the bottom slidebar into the crosshead and clean up all edges until it slides freely. It may be necessary to removed the spacer to clean up the bottom edge which includes the usual cusp from the etching processes but has been designed to be devoid of tabs. When you are happy with the fit remove the fret edge from the spacer, solder the spacer into the crosshead with a minimum of solder applied from the top. Add the upper slidebar and cleanup the top of the crosshead until it slides freely on the slidebars.

The crosshead spacers are made up from 4 laminations (S6) each. Each lamination has an extension at each The spacers are not symmetrical, the holes being slightly closer to the top. The etch is designed to provide a jig for assembling the spacers. Each lamination has an extension at each end which includes a hole to enable them to be assembled without soldering wires in the holes in the body of the spacer. Leave the spacers attach to the fret edge where the top is marked �top�! Remove of the other 3 laminations from the fret. Thread 0.3mm NS wires through the spacers and then through the 5 holes at the top of the outside of the crosshead top. Note that the spacers should be on the opposite side to the 3 half etched holes. The wires should protrude from the outside of the crosshead to represent nuts but will be finished flush with the back of the crosshead. Carefully solder the laminations from the top then clean up. The bottom of the laminations forms another running surface for the slidebar. Fold up the outside of the crosshead top and check that the slidebar will move freely between the bottom of the spacers and the bottom of the crosshead. If necessary file back the bottom of spacers slightly.

Fit the crosshead on to the slidebar (make sure it is the correct way round). Fold up the back of the crosshead and solder it to the wires and at the top of the laminations. The crosshead should move freely on the slidebar. Ease the slidebar slightly if required.

DA40 Connecting rods C5,6,21

DA41 Connecting rods, crosshead and connecting links - updated 11/06/09

In 7mm David Andrews supplies castings for the crosshead pins (139) and crosshead links (140). In 3mm 0.5mm NS wire is used for the crosshead pin and the crosshead links (S14) are included on the Supplementary Etch.

Fold the crosshead link (S14) into a Z shape and solder a 0.5mm NS wire into the top hole. Leave enough protruding to the front to represent the nut. Leave enough at the back to go through the crosshead. It will be filed flush with the back of the crosshead after assembly.

If necessary relieve both faces of the connecting rod so that it can be wrapped in a greased cigarette paper to avoid soldering the connecting rod to the crosshead. I prefer to use chemical blackening to keep solder from unwanted surfaces.

A 0.3mm wire is used as the pivot for the connecting link (15 or 22) at the bottom of the crosshead.

I chose to solder the connecting link to the pivot before assembly leaving the wire free to move in the crosshead. I think this will reduce the tendency of the connecting link and combination lever (C11/12) to twist in motion. In this case solder a 0.3mm NS wire into the rear hole in the connecting link (15 or 22) together with 2 connecting link washers behind it. Feed the the wire through the holes in the bottom of the crosshead.

Alternatively the pivot can be soldered to the crosshead with the connecting link free to move on the pivot. In this case fit a 0.3mm wire through the 2 holes at the bottom of the crosshead. Solder the wire into the rear hole. Fit the connecting link on to the 0.3mm wire with 2 connecting link washers between the connecting link and the front of the crosshead.

Slide the connecting rod into the crosshead making sure it is the correct way up. Feed the crosshead pin through the crosshead and connecting rod. The bottom hole of the crosshead link should fit over the 0.3mm wire..

When happy with clearances solder the crosshead link and crosshead pin to the front and/or back of the crosshead. File the crosshead pin and connecting link pivot flush with the back of the crosshead to clear the coupling rods.

DA42/43/49 Motion bracket and pivot plates - updated 12/06/09

Two versions of the outer motion brackets are provided for the U, one for 14.2mm and one for 12mm gauge. David Andrews modified the original design in the N to cope with 14.2mm and 12mm gauges.

The 12mm version of parts M and N were not included in some U kits. Our apologies if you have not received them yet. They are available separately from John Walker.

David Andrews provides 2 inner laminations (L) for each side of the motion bracket. The Supplementary Etch includes replacements for the centre laminations, which include a locating hole for the pivot through the pivot plate (P/R), and are slightly thinner than L providing much needed clearance for the coupling rods.

Note that David has added inner slots on the motion bracket to match the frame spacers for 12mm gauge chassis.

The push out rivets on the rear section of the motion bracket (K) are very close to the edge in 3mm and distort the metal. I tried to drill them and fit 0.3mm NS wire but this was not very satisfactory either so I decided it best to leave them off. This produces a neat finish and emphasizes the flanges (83) to good effect.

Cut a piece of 0.86mm ID tube to 24.2mm long to fit between the inner faces of the pivot plates. This can be used as a jig to help with the assembly of the pivot plates using 0.5mm NS wire through the pivot plates and the tube. Solder the tube to the motion bracket. Remove the wire and cut the tube flush with the inner and outer faces of the motion braket. 0.5mm NS wire will be use later through the remaining tube and pivot plate as the pivot for the slotted links (see DA53).

DA44 Attach motion bracket to slidebars

DA45 Valve ends

If tubes have been fitted in the cylinder frame as suggested in DA38 (above) then drill the valve ends 1.2mm to fit over the tubes.

DA46 Valve front covers

DA47 Rear valve covers

Drill the rear valve covers 0.8mm to clear 0.8mm OD tube (0.5mm ID) tube. Fit the rear valve covers at the same time as the valve guides (see DA52 below).

DA48 Front cylinder covers

DA49 Pivot plates

See DA42/43/49 Motion bracket and pivot plates

DA50 Attach connecting link (C15/22) to crosshead link (S14)

Use 0.3mm NS wire for the pivot. Use two connecting link washers (S15) behind the connecting link. Solder the wire to the front face of the crosshead link (S14).

DA51 Attach connecting link (C15/22) to combination lever (S8)

Use 0.3mm NS wire for the pivot. Using C15: a washer may be required behind (?) S8. Solder wire to front face of connecting link (C15). Using C22: solder wire to S8 and solder a washer in front of C22.

DA52 Valve guides, spindles and radius rods

Remove the valve connector (S11). Note that this part is handed. The hole at the front should be a tight fit on a 0.5mm NS wire. The holes in the sides should be a tight fit on an �Allen Doherty pin� (0.6mm). Ease the holes as required. Fold the valve connector to form a U shape. Push the pin through the 0.6mm holes to make sure that the folds are square. Remove the pin and solder a 0.5mm NS wire into the hole in the front of the valve connector to form the valve spindle. The spindle can be quite short, about 5mm. Make sure that the spindle is flush with the inside face of the connector. This can be done as shown below by lightly holding the spindle in a pin chuck and pushing it down flush with the face. Use the scalpel blade to remove any excess solder and muck from the inside faces of the connector. There is virtually no clearance between this face and the combination lever.

Allen Doherty pin with 2 flats filed in head to fit slot in valve guide - solder washer or tube at back Remove the valve guide (S7). Note that the small holes at the rear of the guides should be towards the bottom. They should be a tight fit for 0.3mm NS wire. The front hole should be a tight fit on 1/32" (0.86mm) brass tube. Ease the holes as required. The slots should be a running fit on the Allen Doherty pin (0.6mm). Ease them as required.

There are two alternative valve guide front plates (S12). One incorporates half etched rivets the other requires the rivets to be pushed out. Choose a valve guide front plate (12) and remove it and the spacer (13). Push out the rivets if that alternative is chosen. The centre holes should be a tight fit on 1/32" (0.86mm) brass tube. Ease the holes as required. Cut the tube long enough to reach the front of the valve chest so that it can be soldered at the front during final assembly without risk to the valve guide assembly. Slide the spacer, followed by the front plate and then the valve guide on to a piece of 1/32" tube. Check that the parts are square to the tube and solder in place. Clean up the edges and file the tube flush with the rear face of the valve guide. Clean up the hole in the tube so that a 0.5mm NS wire will slide easily.

Fold the valve guide into a U shape around the valve connector with the Allen Doherty pin in the slots and the 0.5mm NS wire in the tube. Check that the connector moves freely in the slots and the 0.5mm NS wire runs freely in the tube. Solder a 0.3mm NS wire through the holes at the end of the guides. Leave sufficient protruding from the outside and inside faces to represent the bolt head and nut.

Thread the Allen Doherty pin through the outside face of the connector, then through the combination lever, through a thick and a thin combination lever washer (S9), through the inside of the face of the connector. Solder a valve connector washer (S9) on to the back of the pin.

Fix the rear valve cover on to the tube at the front of the guide. Slide the assembly into the cylinder frame and solder the tube at the front of the valve chest.

Drill the middle holes in the radius rods (C7) 0.5mm to fit the 0.5mm NS wire pivot through the slotted links and pivot plates (R/P). The half etch hole at the slotted link end of the radius rods are push out rivets in the 7mm version but in 3mm they tend to distort the metal in such a narrow section. Drill the holes 0.3mm and use 0.3mm wires to provide a better representation of the prototype pin. Drill the holes at the front of the radius rods 0.3mm to fit the pin that connects it to the combination levers. The holes are drilled more easily while the parts are still in the fret.

DA53 Slotted link

Drill the middle holes in the slotted links (C14) 0.5mm to fit the 0.5mm NS wire pivot through the pivot plates (R/P). Drill the remaining 6 holes in the slotted link 0.3mm. The bottom holes support the 0.3mm NS wire pivot for the eccentric rods (C9/10). The pairs of holes are push out rivets in the 7mm version but the use of 0.3mm wires provides a more secure assembly as well as a better representation of the prototype nuts. The holes are drilled more easily while the parts are still in the fret.

DA54

Assemble crank (C16/C17) and attach to eccentric rod (C9/10) Drill the big end of C16 to fit the head of a 16BA bolt. Solder the bolt into the hole so that the head is flush with the outside face. Solder C17 to the outside face using the 0.3mm hole in the small end to align the laminations. Solder 0.3mm NS wire into the hole in the eccentric rod. Locate the wire through the small end of the crank and solder a 0.3mm washer to the end of the wire. Check that the crank pivots freely on the wire.

DA55

Attach slotted link (C14) to eccentric rod (C9/10) Install C9/10 within slotted link or to outside with washer? I opened the holes in the bottom of the slotted link a bit too much so I drilled a piece of 0.4mm OD tube (0.13mm ID) from F&S 0.3mm and thread it on to a piece of 0.3mm NS wire then solder the tube into the holes in the slotted link.

DA56 Cylinder drain cocks

Body Assembly - to be completed

DA14 Firebox

The four tapped spacers are not supplied in the 3mm kit. Clear the holes in the firebox ends with a 1.2mm drill and use 12BA nuts and bolts. The bolts will need to be at least 1" long.

DA54 Gauges (127 & 128)

In 7mm David Andrews supplies castings for the gauges (127 & 128). In 3mm the gauges are included in the Supplementary Etch (S20 to S24) as follows:

• • S20 Gauges, layer 3

  • S21 Gauges, layer 2

  • S22 Gauges, layer 4 - front

  • S23 Gauges, layer 1 - back

  • S24 Spacer

Four gauges are included: small, large, medium and duplex.

The etched fret surrounding the parts is designed to assist the assembly of the gauges. The holes have been etched slightly under 0.3mm. They need to be drilled 0.3mm so that the 0.3mm wire is a tight fit. This will make assembly easier.

Remove the fret containing the 4 parts 20. Thread a 0.3mm wire through the hole in each part and lay pieces of 0.3mm wire in the half etch grooves aligning them with the grooves in the surrounding fret. Note that the 1st gauge is smaller than the others and the 4th gauge is a dual gauge requiring 2 wires to represent the pipes.

Remove the fret containing the 4 parts 21 and thread them on to the wires in parts 20. Take care to keep the small gauge on the left and the dual gauge on your right and parts 21 on top of parts 20. Solder each pair of laminates together with a minimum amount of solder, remove the tabs between parts 21 and clean up. Note that parts 20 should remain connected to the surrounding fret for ease of handling.

Remove the fret containing the 4 parts 22 and thread them on to the wires at the back of parts 20 with the half etch indentation facing outwards. This is the face of the gauge. Take care to keep the small gauge on the left and the dual gauge on your right and parts 22 behind parts 20. Solder each pair of laminates together with a minimum amount of solder, remove the tabs between parts 22 and clean up. Note that parts 20 should remain connected to the surrounding fret for ease of handling.

Remove the fret containing the 4 parts 23 and thread them on to the wires on top of parts 21 with the half etch indentation facing outwards. This is the face of the gauge. Take care to keep the small gauge on the left and the dual gauge on your right and parts 21 behind parts 20.

Tender Chassis Assembly - to be completed - added 29 March 2010

These notes have been produced following comments from Tony Seal who is building the tender to 12mm gauge. Our thanks to Tony for his input.

DA1 Inner Frames (A & B)

The extensions at the top of the rear of the inner frames should be removed at the half etched line to match the exploded diagram on page 3.

DA3/4 Chassis Spacers (C, D & E)

Parts C, D and E on the fret marked SR Tender Chassis are intended for 14.2mm gauge.

Parts C, D and E on the fret marked SECR/SR 3500 Gallon Tender are intended for 12mm gauge. The rest of the parts on this fret (60-66) are not required for the 4000 gallon tender.

DA9 Cross Beams (J, K & L)

The crossbeams need shortening by about 2mm for 12mm gauge.

Tender Body Assembly - to be completed - added 29 March 2010

These notes have been produced following comments from Tony Seal who is building the tender to 12mm gauge. Our thanks to Tony for his input.

DA2 Valances (6 & 7)

Tony suggests tack soldering between the holes.

DA27/28 Water Filler

The etched parts for the filler lid (50 & 51) are not required in 3mm. The lid is included as part of the 3mm filler casting.

DA30/31/32 Steps

Tony recommends fitting the backplates to the tender before fitting the steps. The step brackets are very necessary as the backplates are flimsy around the steps due to half etching. Also, if as shown in the diagram on page 6, 33/34 to front and 35/36 to rear, they are the wrong shape. Tony recommends the converse and they will have to be bent against the line.

DA35 Vacuum Pipe

Tony says the retaining bracket should go below the bottom flange. There was no bracket above the footplate.

DA39 Brake Standard

Tony says that all the photos he has of this tender show the brake standard fitted on the left side looking forward, not where the hole is on the footplate. Also fitted between the coalhole and the sandbox, not in front of.

DA48 Drawbar

Tony says the drawbar will have to have its length shortened at the rear. Otherwise it will not rotate on its screw.