Webcam

I've had a lot of fun with webcams. They are an ideal outlet for harmless fun with Exhibitionism & Voyeurism.

Getting a good camera position and angle can be a challenge, so I came up with this fairly simple solution for mounting just about any webcam to a tripod, or other similar camera mount. (I've used table and clamp mount camera supports too.)

The instructions here may seem fairly elaborate, but they make for a durable and steady camera mount, and are generally worth the time. It has worked on every style cam I've had.

If you want to try something quick and easy, just get some Velcro strips, and or some large rubber-bands, and strap your cam to a tripod.

Another very simple solution is to glue a nut to the base of your camera, if the design allows it. The most standard size nut/post used on tripods (in the USA anyway) is described below.

The crux of this system is a "T-Nut" that is "1/4 x 20" ... which is the most common standard on cameras (in the USA anyway). This means that it fits a 1/4" stud, at 20-tpi (threads per inch). Ask any good Hardware Store Clerk for that highlighted text and they will be able to fix you up.

T-Nuts are also measured by length, and finding one short enough to work with "Wood Lath Strips" as thin as the ones shown here can be a challenge. You can always double-up the bottom part, which is what the T-Nut passes through. You can also use a thicker block of wood. (As in the example shown at the bottom of this page.)

If you really want to get detailed, you can also "counter-sink" the T-Nut in a thicker piece of wood (if that is all you can get).

T-Nuts also come either with "spikes", or with holes for brads. I generally prefer the "spike" type, but use caution when inserting and tightening them, as they can split the wood strips (especially if they are thin, like lath). I never try to press them all the way in (or pound on them). As you fasten and check the tripod "shoe" to the clamp, the T-Nut will eventually seat itself well enough. If you have trouble with them splitting the lath strips, try orienting the spikes differently to the wood grain.

These mounts are deceptively simple, and take more time (and expense) than you might think to build, but in the end I have found them to be well worth the effort.

Bevel-Head Screws

Finishing-Washer

Additional details...

Basically what you need are some strips of wood with some holes drilled in them, held together with a couple of "Machine Screws". I used a "Wingnut" as the fastener, for easy mounting and adjustment. I also used a "Finishing Washer" on the screw-head, for a more secure mount (and less likely to split the wood when handling). I like this arrangement best.

Using a "Flat-Washer" under the wingnut is a really good idea too.

For Screw Diameter and Pitches I usually use either:

#10-32 ... a finer thread (screw "pitch")
#10-24 ... a bit more "course" thread

Just be sure the nuts and screws match.

A #10 stud is equivalent to a 0.190" screw, which works well by drilling a 13/64" pilot hole in the wood strip. (3/16" may work, but will likely be too tight. 7/32" will work too.)

The screws shown here are either 2-inch or 2.5-inch in length. Longer is not a problem. It makes it easier to assemble everything, and switch-out the cam. The extra length can also make for a handy hook to hang the cam wire on, if it gets in the way.

I've also used a "Pan-head" or "Round-Head" machine screw with flat-washers (in lieu of the finishing washers and bevel headed screws).

Slotted and Phillips screw-head types are the most common. You should not really need a screwdriver to work with the clamp though, so it hardly matters what kind you get.

Pictured here is what are basically "Wood Lath Strips" made of Poplar. You can find it at most lumber yards or hardware stores. I use a premium grade wood because the small pieces are subject to split, especially when drilling the holes. (Expect this, and buy a bit extra.) Over-tightening the wingnuts can cause the strips to split too.

Rather than wood, you could use block of nylon, plywood, or some other similar material. I just like the look of the premium wood.

I've used larger bits of wood, but if you can get these lath strips (and make them work) they are the easiest in the long run. The larger strips are fine though. Sometimes I've used a larger block on the bottom (to accommodate a longer T-Nut), and a lath strip on top. (Illustrated below.)

I had one cam that was mounted in a clamp made of larger blocks (a bit wider and thicker than what is shown here), and I had to whittle on the blocks a bit to get the cam to fit securely and easily (which is why I like the narrower strips better).

Hope this Helps!

Be Well... Have Fun!

:-)

Note:

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Here is another example of a webcam mount that I built.

It will fit any standard tripod or camera post, clamp device, etc.

This is one of the best mounts I've made.

The screws are just the right length.

The bottom block is a bit heavier in thickness.

This mount was really simple because I did not need to alter (whittle on) either block to accommodate the cam base.

The clamping (top) wood strip is a piece of Poplar lath.

The bottom (base) wood strip is a size that was conveniently available at the building supply I went to. All I had to do was cut them to length.

The cost build-up can come from needing to buy a longer piece than you need.

Once you get everything setup however, it is easier to make several of these at a time.

I have given a few of these away. They were all very much appreciated.

Note the finishing washers on the bottom, supporting the screw heads.

The 1/4"x20tpi T-nut is inserted from the top of the bottom (base) block, which means the "T" portion is between the two blocks of wood (just underneath the cam base).

The "base-shoe" for the tripod (or stand, etc.) fastens to the T-nut.

Note:

If the T-nut is not long enough to reach all the way through the base block, it may be necessary to countersink the T-nut in that block. This is not easy (or all that safe) to do, and should be avoided if possible. If you do need to countersink the T-nut, be sure to drill that hole first. A simple "Spade" or "Paddle" bit will work well enough.

Once finished, this wood Cam-Clamp can be attached or moved to any standard tripod or camera stand.

This stand is a table-top clamp style.

(In this example my keyboard, mouse, monitor, and cam are all on a roll-around type table, of adjustable height.)

Note that the handle on the camera stand looks to be backwards. While I am using the cam however, it is easy to grab the handle as it is facing me, and make adjustments to the camera position.

I'm also really fond of mounting these cams on a tripod, which offers a lot more flexibility on camera positioning, especially "on the fly".

If you really get into it, you can run two or more webcams at once on the same computer. Sometimes this is easy, sometimes not. It all depends on the software being used (at your end) by the client, or on the server end.

Feel free to Comment or Leave Me a Message.

Questions are welcome.

I may answer them, or not... so keep your expectations appropriate.

I may also respond to them on My Blog.

Again... Hope This Helps.

Be Well... Have Fun!

:-)

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