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The rain had stopped in the night and although we had occasional drizzle, it was a mostly dry day - and a most enjoyable half-day walk. Kathryn Hislop at Stoneborough House cooked a lovely breakfast (with a large choice of home made marmalades and jams), served at a large table with the other two guests, a French man and a Canadian woman, both on courses. We left just before 9am.
We walked back down to the beach and then followed the River Otter inland for about 1km, with lots of dog walkers for company. We crossed the river and returned to the coast, climbing up onto gentle cliffs with excellent views back to Budleigh Salterton.
We continued on the top of the attractive undulating red cliffs for several miles, with the stacks of Ladram Bay coming into view. Sadly, the holiday homes at Ladram Bay also soon came into view, but apart from that it was absolutely glorious. We picked our way around the Holiday Park, where a man was clearing mud in one place, and the path had been deemed unsafe in another (so we had to cut across an adventure playground). Then we climbed up through the trees of High Peak.
When we'd looked towards Ladram Bay and Sidmouth, and from a quick glance at the map, I had assumed that there was a single steep climb out of Ladram Bay then a single gentle descent to Sidmouth. Wrong. Not only is there a second outcrop ('Windgate') behind High Peak, as you climb this outcrop you are now on a different rock type, with flints. The ascents and descents were not too challenging though, even given the muddy conditions, and we reached the outskirts of Sidmouth soon after midday.
We stopped to look at 'Jacob's Ladder', a steep staircase down to the beach, then continued through Connaught Gardens to a viewpoint - with no way down to the town! We found a steep staircase that took us down to a path around the cliffs and so to Sidmouth seafront. Sidmouth, like Budleigh Salterton, is a genteel sort of holiday resort, with a pebble beach. Proper exploration will have to wait for next time we are here, because it was just starting to rain so we decided to catch the 12.37 bus (the 52A) to Exeter.
It is about a mile from Exeter bus station to St David's Station, and we had plenty of time to stop for lunch in Debenhams and to look at the Christmas Market by the Cathedral, whilst still getting to the station an hour before our train departed at 16.03. We sat and waited in the 'Lounge' next to the Station Manager's Office on Platform 1, to be recommended for the wonderful old photos and wood panelling, and for the amusement of listening to a staff member who seemed to know absolutely nothing about anything. We had a good journey home, reaching Downham Market about 9.15pm and then walking home on a cold, clear night.
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