Carlisle to Haytongate and Lanercost

We rejoined the path, still on its 'temporary route', near two bizarre concrete "arm chairs" that we had seen when exploring Carlisle on Friday evening, and walked through Bitts Park, complete with rhododendrons and a memorial to Queen Victoria. We reached the River Eden near the Sands Leisure Centre and then followed the river around a meander, with delightful wild flowers and grasses between us and the river (to our left) and The Swifts Golf Course to our right.

We could see the War Memorial in Rickerby Park on the other side of the river and eventually we crossed the attractive Memorial Bridge, and walked through Rickerby Park to the entrance near Rickerby. We continued on, on a cycleway running parallel with the road, past an octagonal tower, which we couldn't fathom; It turns out that this is a folly, built by George Head Head (not a typo!), mayor, magistrate and banker of Carlisle, who owned Rickerby House in the 19th Century at a time when towers and turrets were in vogue. Shortly after passing the tower, we passed a totem pole in someone's garden.

A short section of road walking took us on a bridge over the M6 and into Linstock. We turned right on a lane around the village and past "Linstock Castle" with its peel tower. Half a kilometre further on we had expected to have to turn left rather than right, on another diversion away from the river. However, the diversion sign had a note indicating that the route along by the river was open, so we turned right; we discovered from a path ranger a couple of days later that this route isn't really open, but how were we meant to know that?! We walked down to the river and initially took an overgrown path alongside it, getting rather wet legs from the long damp grass. Then we realised that others had been walking along the field edge a few metres to our left, so we did likewise. Then we reached a section of river bank that had been completely washed away (hence the diversion); here we had no option but to walk along the field edge.

We veered slightly away from the river then crossed a footbridge and returned to the riverbank. There were quite a few other people about; this had been a very strange 'closed' section of path. We emerged into Low Crosby, where the guidebook describes "The Stag" as a walker-friendly pub. Well, the pub was closed and someone else was sitting at the bench outside it! We continued on past a little church, and found a bench, which we sat on. Another couple of walkers stopped at the same point and we had a chat before leaving the bench for them and continuing past High Crosby Farm. We crossed the A689 on a farm bridge, then wiggled first to the right and then to the left on a track, heading back to the line of Hadrian's Wall.

When we reached the line of Hadrian's Wall we were initially disappointed, because we were on a road. However the road became a farm track, and the track became a footpath across green fields. We passed a 'Stall on the Wall' with an honesty box (the first of many similar refreshment boxes we encountered on the wall) and the probable site of a Roman quarry and all the while there were lovely views to rolling countryside.

We were close to Carlisle Airport, which the guidebook told us has a museum with a tea room, but it felt too far from the path to divert to. We stopped for lunch sitting on the grass, and were passed by the couple who we had met in Low Crosby and by a single male walker. When we set off again, we soon overtook the latter, sitting down with his boots and socks off; I'm not sure whether he had blisters or (like me) he has just discovered that frequent TLC of the feet is necessary to prevent blisters on warm days like today.

We took a farm track to Swainsteads, releasing a sheep that had got itself caught on the hook of a gate, then returned through woodland to the line of the wall. We soon reached the edge of Walton. The path doesn't actually go into the village, but we did, because we were aware of The Reading Room, a cafe in the centre of the village. We had lovely tea and cake here, and took photographs the attractive Green and Church.

Refreshed, we returned to the route of Hadrian's Wall Path, which follows the road to the attractive Dovecote Bridge. Over the bridge, there was another short diversion. The map shows the route as following the river, but we stayed on the road for a short distance further.

Back on the non-diverted route of Hadrian's Wall Path, we crossed a couple of minor roads and began to climb. Lanercost Priory came into view amidst trees to our right. We had plenty of time, so we didn't take the first route signposted to Lanercost; instead we continued to climb, up to Haytongate, where there were a few buildings and another refreshment stall with an honestly box. What is shown on the map as a track from Haytongate to Lanercost turned out to be what I'd call a road I.e. it was tarmacked ; a bit disappointing in a way, but it was an easy walk down to the village.

We walked past the entrance to the priory to Lanercost Bed and Breakfast. The B&B is [or was, sadly when I checked in 2019, the B&B appeared to have gone] in the Abbey Farmhouse, and Bob was out in the garden. He took us into the house, introduced us to Christina, and showed us to our room, 'River', which is the biggest room and the only one with a bath. We had a cup of tea, and a slice of cake, learning from Christina that they have been here for 5 years and that it is a semi retirement project following farming in Oxfordshire and running a hotel in Scotland.

We went out to explore a little more; it was just gone 5 pm so the English Heritage part of the Priory ruins had closed, but we were still able to wander around the Priory Church (which has a William Morris Dossal (hanging behind the alter), and the graveyard (which gave us good views of the ruined parts of the Priory, and didn't cost us a penny!). Lanercost is a fascinating place, sitting in a wooded valley by the River Irthing; and it has a rich history. The Priory was founded here in 1166 by Robert de Vaux, Lord of Glisland, and much of the stone used in its construction was taken from Hadrian's Wall. 150 years later, Edward I 'rested' here for six months on his final journey north to fight the Scots; Edward only got as far as Burgh by Sands before dying, and the cost of entertaining Edward and his household (likely to be around 200 people) left the Priory in dire financial straits.

Back in the 21st Century...we returned to Lanercost B&B, where supper was served at 7 pm. Both the meal and the dinner table conversation were excellent; our fellow guests were a couple walking the Hadrian's Wall Path in the opposite direction - and, in the case of the woman, not enjoying it much! - and a delightful family with three teenagers, out from London on a holiday without a car.

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