Minehead to Porlock Weir and Porlock

Tuesday 22nd April 2008

9.5 miles on Coast Path; total of 11.5 miles walking.

Click here for all our photos from this walk.

We left Kenella House soon after 9am, bought lunch from a bakers in Minehead then returned to the sculpture that marks the start of the path, on the seafront. The weather forecast was good, but it was distinctly misty.

The first hill of the path, North Hill, dominates the view to the west and south of Minehead Harbour, and until very recently the South West Coast Path started by leaving the coast and climbing North Hill, up a path between the cottages opposite the sculpture. However the start of the path now passes the harbour and crosses a wide grassy area (with lots of dog walkers) before climbing up through the trees, with a lovely view down to the sea on our right. Just before Greenaleigh Farm, we took another path, doubling back on itself to the left and climbing steeply through the woods and eventually rejoining the old path. Apparently the new start is a real improvement on the old one - it was certainly very pleasant.

We left the woodland and emerged onto gorse-covered moorland. We followed the path across the moorland for several miles, ignoring the 'Alternative rugged coast path' to the right. We passed cows and sheep, with occasional sightings of cars parked in car parks slightly to the left, but there were very few people about. The views were slightly curtailed because of the mist, but it gradually got lighter and by the time we turned back towards the coast, past Bossington Hill, the sun was shining and there were hazy views down to Porlock and Porlock Weir.

The descent through Hurlstone Combe (a dry valley) is steep and we stopped on a bench for lunch, with superb views of Porlock Bay. We climbed to Hurlstone Point, then descended to the bottom of the hill and followed a very attractive wooded lane, with bluebells and wild garlic, to the village of Bossington - a picture postcard of a place, with thatched cottages and attractive chimneys. We stopped for an ice cream (the local brand of 'Styles' - lovely!) in the tea garden at Kitnors, one of the thatched cottages.

The coast path used to run across the shingle bank across Porlock Bay, but the bank was breached by a storm in 1996 and the coast path now runs around the edge of the resulting saltmarsh, roughly following the new high tide mark. The saltmarsh is surprisingly attractive, with dead trees a reminder of how different it must have been before the shingle bank was breached, and signs to remind you that the path floods at high tide.

The path eventually rejoins the original route for the final section of shingle bank - very difficult walking. But you soon reach Porlock Weir, another attractive place with thatched cottages, colourful gardens and yachts left high and dry by the retreating tide. We were staying in Porlock, not Porlock Weir, so we followed a woodland path back inland, through Porlock Wood then behind West Porlock to join the Toll Road (an alternative to the 1 in 4 Porlock Hill on the main road) and into Porlock itself. We were staying at Myrtle Cottage, a lovely 17th Century thatched cottage, with low ceilings to match. We had a pleasant meal at the Ship Inn, also thatched (15th Century this time).

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