The trek described here is the North-South traverse from Lembanna (Malino) to Parang Bintolo (Bantaeng). It crosses the extremely wild Kharisma valley in 4 days/4 nights and goes through 2 of Sulawesi highest points: Bawa Karaeng and Moncong Lompobatang.
1st day
From Makassar South Bus Terminal in Malengkeri, take a pete pete to Malino, 2h, then an ojek to Lembanna. Lembanna guides will show you the start of Bawa Karaeng (BW) (the 1st of 2 summits) trek for a fee. The hike is through tomato fields and forests up to Camp 5 (3h30), where is water (follow the Air sign).
2nd day
The hike to the BW summit (4h) is uneventful, some views on the spectacular 2004 landslide are available on the right side of the trek if weather permit.
The summit looks a bit like hills covered by savana, good for views! There is a white milestone at the summit (2830m), some muddy water in a dig up pool can be useful near the summit, as there is no more water until the very bottom of Kharisma valley, 10h later.
The descent south is far more difficult, the track is marked now by small blue plastic ropes, dont lose them, you have to walk on a narrow rocky crest.
A rock (2h) is famous in the region for its amazing magnetic properties, even GPS wont work there, there are some offerings by local people in a small cave below it.
After an exhausting 3h hike, we arrived at Camp 13 (no water) on a well marked saddle.
3rd day
Continuing the long descent in Kharisma valley, it will take also 3h to reach the 1st river stream. It was not the end of our pains, as the tracks is very bushy and crossing multiple streams before arriving in the nice Camp 15, in the middle of the valley (2050m). It s also a pleasant place for having lunch. Dont forget to store water as at least 24h without water awaits you.
The path is now crossing a small stream (follow the blue markings). After 1.30 hours going up and down in the valley, the path is eventually climbing the Lompobatang (LB).
On the way, an amazing empty clearing in the jungle can be seen down in the distance. It's called Pasar (market/place) by the locals. How this clearing appeared is a mistery as these valley is totally wild.
2h later a rather difficult rock cliff in a small gully has to be climbed. A rope might be necessary to haul up bags or inexperienced climbers.
Another 2h are needed to reach the crest of the LB range, a nice place for camping with savana and great views!
4th day
The trek on the LB crest to the abandonned transmission hut and antennas is spectacular with views on both side of the South Sulawesi coast, even Pantai Bira and Selayar can be seen by good weather. South of the transmitter, the track goes straight down to Camp 9, down a saddle, there is a small cave under a big rock which provides some shelter and has water.
Don't climb back to the saddle, the track goes horizontally straight from there. It s a long way down (4/5h) to camp 2 (water). 2h more and you ll reach the small Parang Bintolo village and base camp (largest wooden house just before the mosque).
5th day
It's time to reach the road and its pete pete to Bataeng. From Bataeng, halfway between Makassar and Bulukumba/Pantai Bira
Fig1: Profile of Kharisma trek