Skagen - bustur

• Toldkammeret - nu nedlagt - arkitekt Hack Kampmann

  • Tidligere sømandshjem, nu ferieboliger for Krifa

  • Auktionshallen. Ubrudt kølekæde for fiskene.

  • Isværket

  • Skawlink både - bringer besætninger m.v. til og fra skibene på reden.

  • Skagerak Pelagic - en af fabrikkerne - den største sildeindustri, den af Skagerak Pelagic Group

  • FF Skagen - administrationsbygning. Fiskemel og -olie til mere end 60 lande.

  • Læsø Fiskeindustri (jomfruhummere - moderne anlæg til sortering og forarbejdning)

  • Skagerak Pelagic (i Hirtshals forarbejder de laks, i Skagen sild)

  • Engelsviken - krebsehaler, rejer og surimi (fiskenes "studenterbrød")

  • Udsigt til Sønderstrand, fyr og reden

Vippefyret (parkering ved det Hvide Fyr)

• Oddens udvikling

• Fyrenes historie

• Vippefyret rekonstruktion - Sankthans

På vej til Grenen fortalte Hanne Aavang:

• Noget om dannelse af Skagen Odde, første 20 km fra basislinjen mest landhævning og lidt sand. Sidste 20 km fra Aalbæk mest sand, sand og lidt landhævning.

• 1 million m3 sand årligt.

• Skage - oldnordisk ord for hage, krog, gren - heraf Grenen og Skagen. Omgivet af 2 have.

• Fyrtårne - Hvide fyr fra 1747, Grå fyr 1858 og Skagen Vest 1956.

• Grenen vender ikke altid ens - som hundens hale. i 2004 til 2005 øgedes Grenen med 350 meter !!!

Grenen, Sandorm, Udkigspunktet, Drachmanns grav

• • Husk at skelne mellem turbussen "the coach" og Sandormen "The Tractor-bus"

  • Husk at angive tidspunkter og busnummer

  • Gør opmærksom på plancherne i Sandormen

  • Maks. 15 minutter på Grenen - samme Sandorm tilbage. Efter besøg på Grenen, hvor der ikke orienteres ret meget - måske en tegning i sandet med oddens udvikling, går vi til Kompasset og Drachmanns grav.

• Det Hvide fyr 1747 - første murede fyrtårn i Danmark

• Det Grå fyr 1855-1858, Nebelong. 140.000 sten fra Holland. Linsefyr. 3 mand på skift, Fyrmester, Fyrpasser og Fyrassistent. Egen kost, holdt køer, får og gæs. 50% af alt til Mester og 25% til hver af de andre. Bygningerne fredet. Under fyret (linsen) 400 liter kviksølv, båret ned i 10 liters spande. 210 trin.

• Plan om Fuglestation i april 2016. Naturstyrelsen, DOF (Dansk Ornitologisk Forening) Turisthus Nord og Frederikshavn kommune. Fugletræk - vand- og landfugle.

Skagen Odde Naturcenter - droppet

• • Lidt om formålet

  • Utzon - arkitekter

  • Ørkenfort

På vej tilbage:

• Vippefyret - rekonstruktion 1958

• De gule huse med røde tage og hvide kanter

• Vandtårnet mellem Anchers Hus og Skagen Museum

• Sct. Laurentiivej efter Sct. Laurentius - skagens helgen

• Ned omkring Havnen (mod By- og Egnsmuseet - Skagen Odde Naturcenter droppet)

• Havnen - auktionshallen

• Marinaen - op til 1.000 både på en gang

• En af 3 glaspustere

• Svenske Sømandskirke.

Skagen By- og Egnsmuseum

Sammenlægning af Kystmuseet, Bangsbo Museum, Sæby Museum og XX

Skagen by- og egnsmuseum, start 1927 på Oddevej, 1938 på Svallerbakken.

Beskriver primært perioden 1830 - 1850

Lise Hellum (i 2014) fortalte om:

Redningsstationen (en kopi)

• Båden fra Kandestederne 1924 - original

• Sidst i 1840 - Claudi fra vestkysten - studerede redningsvæsen i England. Redningsvæsnet etableret i 1852 - Claudi bestyrer.

  • 12 redningsmænd pr. båd - det var svært at skaffe i Skagen. De skulle være ædruelige, store robuste mænd som var villig til at risikere livet for andre. Lille løn - mest æren. Pladsen gik ofte i arv til sønner. Fiskerne hjalp ved redninger med sine små både, men ikke uddannet til det.

• Båden stikker ikke dybt for den skulle søsættes fra stranden. Selvlænsende, redningskrans om båden med kapok - også i veste. Bedre end kork som optager sand og mister flydeevne. Vestene blev tjæret.

• Man skulle være over 18 år med der var ikke nogen øvre grænse. Bådførerens ord var lov.

• Pligthuggeren skulle kaste linen til de nødstedte som skulle binde den om livet og springe i vandet.

• Raketten - svær at styre - det var mest båden der anvendtes.

• 1350 redninger og 50 redningsfolk gik til.

Mindehallen

• Skagens næstældste bygning (Sct. Laurentii kirke er ældre) - fra 1747

• Brugt til opbevaring af både og ligkister - flyttet flere gange.

• Daphnes forlis - Lars Kruses medalje (historierne, se andet steds)

Den rige fiskers hus

• Murersten en mangelvare.

• Saltkar - fiskene skulle hænge en uge på hjeldene - ind i regnvejr

• Trangryder - fra torskelever - brugt til støvler og tøj, heraf "olietøj" og til belysning

• Komfur og bilæggerovn.

• Dækket op til gilde (bådlaug tradition 2. juledag)

Den fattige fiskers hus

• 26 m2 til 9 personer (familien Richardsen)

• Ud at arbejde som 10 årige.

Damstederne (droppet i 2014), Gammel Skagen, Tilsandede Kirke

På vej til Gammel Skagen - Højen

• Skagen købstad - isoleret fra landsiden, men centrum for skibsfart - første og sidste sted på ruten.

• Oplæg til den tilsandede kirke - sandflugt.

I Højen

• Høwboerne syntes Skagenfiskerne var kællingefiskere. Søskendeforhold - indbyrdes stridighed men sammenhold udadtil.

• Efter ferieloven 1938 sommerpensionater og hoteller frem til 1960 - så Timeshare som blev en succes her.

• Rævehulevej - dyr adresse - dyre huse på Top ti listen.

• Sømærket

• Ruths Hotel - almindeligt hotel - ikke timeshare. Ombygget for 80 mill. kroner. Lejligheder til 16-20.000 pr uge.

• Strandhotellet - del af Ruths koncernen

• Solnedgangspladsen - se og blive set. Klappe af solen

Den tilsandede Kirke

Markeringer af kirkebygningen. Der skal "sælges" så de ikke bliver skuffet over attraktionen.

Hulsig Hede

Vegetationen ved Plantagen (til dæmpning af sandflugt og basis for jernbanen)

Østrigske fyrretræer som nu fældes for at bevare den lokale vegetation.

Heden holdes "ren" for træer - også skolebørn måtte hjælpe til.

Lyset på grund af

• den smalle odde

• reflektioner i søgangen

• saltvand - saltpartikler - prismer

Hulsig.

Sig betyder vådt område - altså et vådt hul

Hulsig kirke - Arne L. Hansen

Hirtshalsvejen som klimagrænse (godt vejr nord for)

Ørnereservatet - show kl. 15.00

Næsten al information er på dansk og showet er også på dansk.

Flot show med falke og ørne.

Råbjerg Mile og retur til Skagen

Fra SkagenNU.dk

Gammel Skagens historie

Gl. Skagen, som også kaldes Højen, var stedet, hvor det oprindelige Skagen opstod som et lille fiskerleje. Det ligger lidt vest for Skagen by. Gl. Skagen er indbegrebet af uspoleret natur og havets brusen. Det er et fashionabelt feriested, der hver år besøges af rigtig mange turister, hvoraf mange vender tilbage år efter år.

Da jernbanen blev indviet i 1890, stod Højen Station også færdig. Hertil ankom den stadig stigende strøm af sommergæster, der havde opdaget Skagen. En særlig festdag var det når Kong Christian X. og hans dronning, Alexandrine ankom til Højen Station, for at tilbringe sommeren i deres sommerresidens, Klitgården, som Chr. X. overdrog sin dronning som bryllupsgave i 1914.

Der er meget idyllisk i Gl. Skagen. Året rundt giver naturen mange muligheder for oplevelser. Man kan bl.a. nyde det, der måske er Danmarks bedste havudsigt. Blandt de yderste klitrækker, kun et stenkast fra Vesterhavet, ligger Solnedgangspladsen. Herfra kan man nyde de fantastiske solnedgange, som Gl. Skagen byder på. Mange skønne restauranter og hoteller finder man også i Gl. Skagen. Og er man til kunst og kultur, er der også meget at at se i Gl. Skagen.

Af Susanne Andersen

Den tilsandede Kirke

The architect was Gustav Ljungman assisted by Ulrik Plesner. The Swedish fishermen who landed their catch in Skagen needed a place to go between the fishing trips instead of fighting the Skagen fishermen.

Skagen Odde is made of sand and land rising after the last ice age (10.000 – 13.000 years ago). The sand is transported by the sea up along the west coast of Jutland and the north coast at the spit grows 7 - 8 metres and get 1 million cubic metres of sand from the sea every year. The tip of the spit is one of the best places to watch birds, when they travel north every spring and south every autumn. Ornithologists from the whole of Denmark have designated Skagen as the most interesting bird watching site. Many migrating routes cross Skagen and around 250 different species can be observed during the year. Protected 1940.

The view point, Drachmann’s grave and bunker

Southeast of the parking place at the top of the spit on top of a German bunker is a viewpoint. You can see the sand dunes, more bunkers, the tip of the spit, and the sea with all the ships waiting for new orders or fuel, Skagen and all the way to Frederikshavn, if the weather is clear. On the viewpoint is a wind rose. Usually people get surprised to notice the directions of north.

The Germans built the bunkers during the 2nd world war as part of the German military’s Atlantic Wall.

Close to the viewpoint is the grave of Drachmann. Some people bring a flower, others put a small stone on top of the grave to honour him. Krøyer has designed the front; originally in wood (can be seen at Skagens Museum) later it was made in bronze.

Biografi - Holger Drachmann

Holger Drachmann (1846 – 1908) He was writer, poet and marine painter. 1872 First time in Skagen and kept coming back. 1902 Bought Villa Pax, he restored it and added a studio in the east end of the house. Married his 3rd wife, Soffi, 1903. He died in Hornbæk north of Copenhagen and his urn was escorted by a lot of people to Skagen to be buried in the sand dunes at the tip of the spit. He wanted his urn to be taken by the sea just as the coast. Villa Pax opened as museum in 1911.

The Nature Centre is both a gallery and a museum. The nature exhibition describes the creation of the Skagen spit and the other features, which make the nature in Skagen quite unique. The architect of the building is Jørn Utzon and his two sons Jan and Kim Utzon.

Skagen Odde is made of sand and land rising after the last ice age (10.000 – 13.000 years ago). The sand is transported by the sea up along the west coast of Jutland and the north coast at the spit grows 7 - 8 metres and get 1 million cubic metres of sand from the sea every year. The tip of the spit is one of the best places to watch birds, when they travel north every spring and south every autumn. Ornithologists from the whole of Denmark have designated Skagen as the most interesting bird watching site. Many migrating routes cross Skagen and around 250 different species can be observed during the year. Protected 1940.

The local History Museum.

Skagen By og Egnsmuseum is a combined open-air museum and exhibition centre containing special collections featuring fishing, the lifeboat service and shipping.

The Memorial Hall

In the hall there is a rowing boat of the type the fishermen used until the late 19th century.

The crew was 5 or 6 fishermen, and gave living conditions for at least 20 persons (the crew and their families).

The oars are very heavy; it takes two men at each oar to row the boat. When they were not out fishing, they hauled the boat up on the shore.

On the walls there are nameplates and figureheads from wrecked ships, pictures, accounts of exploits and medals of the many Skagen rescue men. At the end wall all the names of the fishermen lost at sea and never found is mentioned. They stayed out there. Thomas Pedersen, one of the rescuers from the stranding of Daphne is the first man mentioned.

The lifeboat station is a copy. A map shows where ships have stranded around the coast of Denmark. The lifeboat services were organized in 1852 after ideas of Christoffer Claudi. The lifeboat was in use at Kandestedernes life station. It is built in 1924 and was last time in use in 1967. The lifeboat had a crew of 12 experienced fishermen, and it was a job of honour and low pay. The leader sat at the rudder (starboard), 10 rowers at the oars and a pligthugger in the front of the boat. His job was to throw a line out on the wrecked ship. The lifeboat was unsinkable and self-draining. The life wests are filled with kapok. There is also a rocket devise and a breeches buoy (redningsstol).

Visit a poor fisherman’s home (25 m2) for a whole family of 9 with grandparents, parents and kids. The original house was built 1808 in Vesterby. The living room was also used as a bedroom and the kitchen has an open fireplace. Notice that there is no chimney but only a hole in the roof. They couldn’t afford bricks for a chimney. There was no restroom, so when people should relieve themselves, they went to leeward at the eastern gable out of the wind. This small spot gave good growing conditions for vegetable and rhubarb.

The rich fisherman’s home shows living conditions around 1850 to 1875, the last years of the in-shore fishing period. The fishermen’s tools and the large brine tub for salting fish can be seen in the scullery. After salting the fish was dried outside on the frames (hjeldene). The kitchen has an open fireplace and the stoves in the living room and bedroom can be stoked from the kitchen fireplace. The west living room was used as a storeroom, a guest room for shipwrecked persons and for the Christmas parties the boat owner held for his crew. The room was also used for laying out the dead. The coffin was lifted out of the house thru the window to make sure the dead didn’t haunt the house. The people were very superstitious. Sheep were kept in the stable during the winter. Wealthy fishermen hired a cow from a farm nearby during the summer to get milk.

The shed outside both the rich and the poor fisherman’s house was used for storing rope and tools. The roof is made of an old dinghy (jolle).

Damstederne

The town bailiff and planter Ole Chr. Lund had the responsibility to moderate the sand drifting and planted Skagen old plantation (Byfogedskoven). (10 hectare) In 1810 – 1820 he planted hardwood (deciduous) trees as alder, willow and birch to the west to shelter for ash, lime, beech, oak and poplar.

Skagen Klitplantage. The people of Skagen exchanged the land to the state for getting a railway. They had to stop the sand from drifting before building the railway. First they planted lyme grass and marram grass on the sand dunes to stop the drifting. Later (1880 – 1890) they planted imported pine and spruce to keep the sand from drifting. The trees in the plantation are 100 – 120 years old.

Sandmilen is the second largest migrating sand dune in North Europe. It has come to the end of its journey, the Baltic Sea.

Hulsig Hede. The landscape between Klitplantagen and Kandestederne (2.159 hectare) is an overgrown sand drifting area, with lot of drifting sand dunes, which are prevented from moving by the plants. The area is protected The dunes are cowered by Lyme grass and marram grass, and the low areas are moor, small ponds and marsh with heather, willow, cranberry and crowberry. The small ponds are made by peat (tørv) digging. Peat was used for heating the houses. The pines you see are self-sown and are not wanted. In order to keep the nature as it used to be, they are removed from time to time. Lots of birds (e.g. crane, small songbirds, hawks’, ducks) 65 different species breed in this area and fox, hare and roe deer live here too.

Eagle World

Irene and Frank Wentzel started Eagle World 1980. Frank Wentzel has been interested in birds of prey since he was 8 years old. In shows they tell the story about their falcons, hawks and eagles and how they have been used for hunting. When the falcon is sitting on the hand it wears a hood to prevent the bird from being stressed. It is for the bird’s sake and it is not cruelty to the bird. They have a very special white tailed eagle called Margrethe. She got the name because her egg was laid on the birthday of our queen Margrethe.

There is an exhibition room with photos depicting the life of birds of prey and the history of falconry. It is worth seeing.

Råbjerg Mile is the largest migrating sand dune in North Europe. The sand dune was formed at the west coast (Råbjerg Stene) in the 1500 and 1600 hundreds during the great sand migration. The dune is 1000 m wide and 1500 m long containing approximately 4 million cubic metres of sand with its highest point some 40 m above sea level. The dune continues to migrate east-northeast towards The Baltic Sea at a rate of about 15 m per year. Within 200 years it will reach the main road and cut the connection from Skagen to the rest of the world. The migrating dune and the land around is protected and so nothing will stop the dune on its way to the see. The mile is a parable, and behind the mile the ground is very low of nutrient, almost like a desert with small ponds with fresh water (groundwater). Only a few species live here, for example a rare toad the natter jack [Bufo calamita], a frog (løgfrøen) and sundew, which is a meat eating plant.

Råbjerg mile has been use as set piece in 2 films, 1920 and 1968.

Kandestederne, the little settlement you can see from the mile, was resort for actors as Skagen was for painters. Karen Blixen has been to Kandestederne when she wrote: Out of Africa.