CYLINDER HEAD GASKET { WITHOUT RED SEAL BAND TYPE } FITTING

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET SHOWING DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MANUFACTURERS.

Click on photo to Enlarge

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THE FOLLOWING IS MY METHOD OF FITTING THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET { WITHOUT THE RED SEAL TYPE } ON THE 850cc ENGINES .

NOTE THAT I AM NOT STATING THAT THE METHOD I USE IS GUARANTEED TO BE BULLET PROOF AS THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO HEAD GASKET FAILURE .

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BEFORE FITTING THE HEAD GASKET ;

BLOCK / HEAD / NUTS / STUDS CLEANING

1 - Thoroughly clean the faces on the block and head with a plastic scraper / Nylon scouring pad .

2 - Give the sides on all the studs a good rub with the scouring pad as well .

3 - Either fit new nuts or thoroughly clean the threads on the old nuts .

4 - Run the nuts down each stud with your fingers .

They should all be able to be run down by just using your fingers .

5 - If some nuts are tight try swapping them to another stud or run them up and down the stud with a spanner/socket till you can screw them down easily with your fingers .

CYLINDER HEAD

1 - Leave the head gasket off and place the cleaned CYLINDER HEAD over the studs and lower it down gently and slowly to check that it actually goes down freely without jamming .

2 - If it is sticking on a stud you could maybe use a rolled up tube of fine wet,n,dry paper through the stud holes in the head to relieve the sticking or some fine wet,n,dry paper on the unthreaded part of the studs .

3 - When the cylinder head does go down , gently ensure that it goes metal to metal with the liners on the block .

{ The head will not touch the block because the liners should be sitting proud of the block by around 4 thou }

4 - Remove the cleaned CYLINDER HEAD .

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FITTING

1 - Carefully fit the cylinder head gasket over the studs ensuring that they go down evenly .

2 - If the gasket is jamming at any point you might need to open out the hole in the gasket a TINY bit with a fine needle file .

3 - Ensure that the cylinder head gasket is fully down .

4 - Check that the holes in the gasket line up with the holes in the block .

5 - If some are obstructing a hole in the block by more than 1/4 you can either decide to leave it or open out the hole in the gasket a TINY bit with a fine needle file .

WARNING

DO NOT TOUCH THE HOLES IN THE GASKET WHICH HAVE RINGS AROUND THEM .

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CYLINDER HEAD ; TORQUE SETTINGS FOR 850 ENGINE

ENGINE

Manifold Nuts ......................... 5/16 UNF .......... 12 ft/lb - 15 ft/lb .

Rocker Shaft Supports ..............3/8 UNF ........... 17 ft/lb - 22 ft/lb .

Spark Plugs .................................................. ... 15 ft/lb .

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NOTE ; RELIANT ISSUED AN UPDATED TORQUE SETTING AMENDMENT FOR THE 3/8 UNF CYLINDER HEAD NUTS AS PER ;

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 1 to 10 ................. 3/8 UNF ............ 25 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts ; NUMBERED 11 to 12 ............... 3/8 UNF ............ 20 ft/lb .

Cylinder Head Nuts .................................................. 5/16 UNF .......... 15 ft/lb .*

* Use a Crows Foot spanner to torque the 3 nuts AFTER you have tightened the cylinder head

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NOTE ;

Remember when torquing to start at 5 lb/ft then 10 then 15 then 20 and finally 25

{ Remembering to only torque studs 11 and 12 to 20 lb/ft }

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NOTE THE FOLLOWING ADDITIONAL INFO FROM RELIANT ;

* Reliant state that cylinder head nuts MUST be re-torqued after running in .

* MY FINDING IS THAT If you torque the cylinder head then wait till you have done the recommended 500 miles , chances are that you will develop head gasket problems !....The gasket will have compressed /bedded in after the first heat up / cool down cycle .

* Reliant state that nuts should be backed off 1/2 turn & re-tightened to the recommended torque

* { Personally I only back off 1/8 turn }

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CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE DIAGRAM

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A SIMPLE WEE TIP FOR YOU TO MAKE IT EASIER TO KNOW WHICH NUT IS WHICH WITHOUT CONTINUALLY REFERRING TO THE DIAGRAM ;

MARK THE CYLINDER HEAD WITH A PERMANENT MARKER PEN AS PER ;

CYLINDER HEAD MARKED SHOWING THE SEQUENCE OF TIGHTENING THE HEAD STUDS .

THIS MAKES IT EASY TO SEE AT A GLANCE WITHOUT CONTINUALLY REFERRING TO THE BOOK .

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CYLINDER HEAD MARKED SHOWING THE SEQUENCE OF TIGHTENING THE HEAD STUDS .

THIS MAKES IT EASY TO SEE AT A GLANCE WITHOUT CONTINUALLY REFERRING TO THE BOOK .

VIRTUALLY ALL THE TIGHTENING CAN BE DONE FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE ON THE LATER ROBINS .

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FITTING THE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET WHICH DOES NOT HAVE THE RED SEALING STRIP ON IT

After doing the pre-fitting check and referring to the info given above , you can now proceed to fit the cylinder head .

FIRST TORQUE WITHOUT COOLANT IN THE ENGINE

{ 1 } Fit the head gasket .

{ 2 } Fit the cylinder head .

{ 3 } Fit the rectangular plate with the holes for the carb spring over the # 5 head stud .

{ 4 } Fit the washers over the 12 head studs .

{ 5 } Fit the nuts on the 12 head studs and screw down finger tight only .

{ 6 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 5 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 7 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 10 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 8 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 15 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 9 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 20 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 10 } Using a torque wrench tighten nuts #1 to #10 to 25 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 11 } Using a torque wrench re-torque nuts #11 to #12 to 20 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

PLUG SIDE STUDS are tightened to 15 lb/ft using a crows foot spanner .

{ 12 } Fit the 90 degree bracket for the carb feed hose over the middle stud on the plug side of the head .

{ 13 } Fit the washers over the 3 studs on the plug side of the head .

{ 14 } Fit the nuts on the 3 studs and screw down finger tight only .

{ 15 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 5 ft/lb starting with the centre stud .

{ 16 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to only 10 ft/lb starting with the centre stud .

{ 17 } Using a torque wrench tighten each nut to 15 ft/lb starting with the centre stud .

COOLANT

{ 18} DO NOT FILL WITH COOLANT AT THIS STAGE and LEAVE TO SETTLE FOR AT LEAST 10 HOURS

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1st RE-TORQUE

After the engine has lain dormant for 10 hours or so you can do a re-torque doing the following ;

{ 19 } 1st RE-TORQUE ;

{ 20 } Using a torque wrench re-tighten nuts #1 to #10 to 25 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 21 } Using a torque wrench re-torque nuts #11 to #12 to 20 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 22 } DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS

PUSHRODS / ROCKER ASSEMBLY .

{ 23 } Fit the pushrods .

{ 24 } Fit the rocker assembly .

{ 25 } Fit the washers over the 4 rocker pillar studs .

{ 26} Fit the nuts on the 4 rocker pillar studs and screw down finger tight only .

{ 27 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut between 17 ft/lb - 22 ft/lb using the following sequence ;

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Starting from the front of the engine I number the Rocker assembly studs as #1 , #2 , #3 and the Rocker assembly stud at the back of the engine as #4

{ 28 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 5 ft/lb

{ 29 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 10 ft/lb

{ 30 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 15 ft/lb

{ 31 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 20 ft/lb

{ 32} PLUG SIDE STUDS

Using a torque wrench check that each nut is still torqued to 15 ft/lb starting with the centre stud and adjust as necessary .

TAPPETS

{ 33 } Adjust the tappets as per ;

......... https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintstips/tappet-adjustment

NOTE ; The gaps do not have to be spot on at this stage as you will have to adjust them after the next step .

ROCKER COVER / CARB and all other parts .

{34 } Fit the ROCKER COVER , CARB , DISTRIBUTOR , HOSES and all other parts .

COOLANT

{ 35 } FILL WITH COOLANT AT THIS STAGE

START THE ENGINE

{ 36 } Start the engine and let it gently run up to FULL working temperature .

{ 37 } Switch off .

{ 38 } Leave to cool down for at least 10 hours or overnight .

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2nd and FINAL RE-TORQUE

After the Second heat up / cool down cycle as above , and the engine has remained dormant for 10 hours or so you can remove the Rocker Cover , Rocker Shaft , Carb and do the 2nd and FINAL RE-TORQUE doing the following ;

After the engine has lain dormant for 10 hours or so you can do a re-torque doing the following ;

{ 39 } 2nd and FINAL RE-TORQUE ;

{ 40 } Using a torque wrench re-tighten nuts #1 to #10 to 25 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 41 } Using a torque wrench re-torque nuts #11 to #12 to 20 ft/lb using the tightening sequence given above .

{ 42} REPEAT THE FOLLOWING STEPS

PUSHRODS / ROCKER ASSEMBLY .

{ 43 } Fit the pushrods .

{ 44 } Fit the rocker assembly .

{ 45 } Fit the washers over the 4 rocker pillar studs .

{ 46 } Fit the nuts on the 4 rocker pillar studs and screw down finger tight only .

{ 47} Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut between 17 ft/lb - 22 ft/lb using the following sequence ;

.........

Starting from the front of the engine I number the Rocker assembly studs as #1 , #2 , #3 and the Rocker assembly stud at the back of the engine as #4

{ 48 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 5 ft/lb

{ 49 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 10 ft/lb

{ 50 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 15 ft/lb

{ 51 } Using a torque wrench tighten each Rocker assembly nut to only 20 ft/lb

PLUG SIDE STUDS

{ 52} Using a torque wrench check that each nut is still torqued to 15 ft/lb starting with the centre stud and adjust as necessary .

TAPPETS

{ 53 } Adjust the tappets as per ;

......... https://sites.google.com/site/fifersrelianthintstips/tappet-adjustment

NOTE ; SET THE TAPPET GAPS TO THE CORRECT SETTING

ROCKER COVER / CARB and all other parts .

{ 54 } Fit the ROCKER COVER , CARB , DISTRIBUTOR , etc .

COOLANT

{ 55 } TOP UP COOLANT IF REQUIRED

START THE ENGINE

Should be ready for many trouble free head gasket miles .

SUMMARY

{ 1 } INITIAL TORQUE WITH NO COOLANT IN THE ENGINE AND NO ROCKER SHAFT , CARB OR HOSES FITTED . LEAVE FOR 10 HOURS OR SO

{ 2 } Ist RE-TORQUE WITH NO COOLANT IN THE ENGINE then , after re-torquing , fit and torque the rocker shaft to correct setting , fit carb , fit water hoses and refill with coolant , fit rocker cover and recheck that everything is fitted , Start the engine and run gently up to normal working temperature then switch off and leave overnight or at least 10 hours or so .

{ 3 } 2nd and FINAL RE-TORQUE by removing rocker cover and rocker assembly then , after re-torquing , fit and torque the rocker shaft to correct setting and correctly gap the tappets and refit rocker cover .

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