THE WATCH INCUBATORS

Bselworld 2019

Singer:

SINGER REIMAGINED awarded Best Chronograph of

the Year at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

Genève (GPHG) 2018

ABOUT MARCO BORRACCINO

Marco BORRACCINO Italian born, during his corporate career, he served as the Head of

Design for Officine Panerai in Milan as well as Global Design Manager for

P&G in Geneva.

As a Designer and Creative Director, he has run his own design consultancy office in Geneva

since 2009, collaborating with several luxury watch and accessories brands.

since 2009, his passion for design pushed him to collaborate with Geneva University of Art

and Design (HEAD), where in 2014 he founded the Chair in Watch Design.

Marco is today the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Singer Reimagined watch brand,

launched in June 2017.

The innovative movement:

MARCO BORRACCINO PENDOLO CARUSO
GPHG SINGER CARUSO PENDOLE DI PRECISIONE

BEREVE:

Bereve is an independent brand of Haute Horlogerie, which fosters all the values of the Swiss watchmaking art. The handcraft of the dials and the manufacturing of all the components reveal the high quality of its 100% Swiss Made timepieces. The company has long experience in designing and making dials with the “Grand Feu” technique (including Champlevé, Coisonné, Plique Jour, Miniature). Bereve combines different techniques, such as Micromosaic in spun enamel, with the most precious and unique decorative stones and minerals in the world. This fifty-year-old savoir-faire enabled the company to enhance its creativity and go beyond the limits of regular handcrafting techniques Once the details and the colours are set, every single dial takes many days of work to be finalized. It might take time, but the result is unique and exclusive! In the field of Haute Horlogerie, not many watchmakers use Grand Feu fired enamel. The enamel is melted at a temperature between 730 and 900 degrees Celsius, which is almost the melting point of the two metals our dials are composed of: fine silver and 24K gold. We use 100% SWISS MADE movements, shaped according to our needs, all made possible thanks to the partnerships we have with some of the most important Swiss manufacturers. We also collaborate with some of the greatest Swiss watchmakers Masters. We can guarantee international assistance for our customers, thanks to the use of a calibre based on Vaucher movements, which are all designed, assembled and quality tested in Switzerland. Our timepieces are the expression of our cutting-edge view on modern horology, and display an outstanding balance between the use of luxury raw materials, unique handcrafting techniques and design.

bernardo cipolla bereve cronoregolatore caruso pendole

Once the details and the colours are set, every single dial takes many days of work to be finalized. It might take time, but the result is unique and exclusive! In the field of Haute Horlogerie, not many watchmakers use Grand Feu fired enamel. The enamel is melted at a temperature between 730 and 900 degrees Celsius, which is almost the melting point of the two metals our dials are composed of: fine silver and 24K gold. We use 100% SWISS MADE movements, shaped according to our needs, all made possible thanks to the partnerships we have with some of the most important Swiss manufacturers. We also collaborate with some of the greatest Swiss watchmakers Masters. We can guarantee international assistance for our customers, thanks to the use of a calibre based on Vaucher movements, which are all designed, assembled and quality tested in Switzerland. Our timepieces are the expression of our cutting-edge view on modern horology, and display an outstanding balance between the use of luxury raw materials, unique handcrafting techniques and design.

bereve cronoregolatore caruso pendole di precisione
enameled dial cronoregolatore r caruso pendole
KARSTEN CRONOREGOLATORE CARUSO
KARSTEN CRONOREGOLATORE
KF SPIROGRAPH CRONOREGOLATORE CARUSO


MONTRES KF:

Karsten Fräßdorf watches

La Chaux-de-Fonds

KF surprises the world of Swiss Haute Horlogerie by becoming a Maison capable of tailoring its creations to reflect its clients’ imagination. More than a philosophy, KF is the designer of your dreams through bespoke customisation.

The KF philosophy is above all based on authentic expertise that dares to be modern while celebrating the past. This is a case of pushing the “Swiss Made” label to its limits for watches that are 100% developed, produced and assembled in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

A singular brand, capable of developing of any calibre, KF ensures freedom and absolute

creativity in terms of innovation. It is also a playful Maison, however, which ushers its clients into the fabulous world of timepiece design by giving them carte blanche to choose the design and complications of each model. A resolutely horological, unmistakably timeless approach proclaiming each owner’s vibrant personality.

Faithful to the original model, the Spirograph Sport highlights the tourbillon’s function. Visible through a broad dial aperture at 6 o’clock, this one-minute tourbillon is equipped with an escapement designed and developed 100% by the KF brand, as is the rest of the movement that drives it. The result is an entirely Swiss Made watch produced in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

This calibre has been designed and built around its balance-wheel to meet the standards of pure chronometric performance: an extremely rare event in the industry. With that in mind, this chronometric heart comprises two new innovations and was shaped by the vision and expert hands of a watchmaker, precision timer and construction developer driven by passion and conviction.

A precision instrument intended for daily use, this manual-winding calibre beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour. While making it more difficult to adjust the regulating organ, this frequency enables better management of the energy required for the watch to operate properly. It also reduces component wear and tear, thereby enhancing sustainability of precision. Thus, through the choice of materials and the specific construction of the calibre, the Spirograph Sport will be a lifetime companion and survive through subsequent generations, providing it is regularly serviced.

Equipped with a new elastic suspension system, the movement – which appears to be “flying” inside its case – can absorb shocks of up to 5,000 Gs. It displays considerable endurance with a 70-hour power reserve, meaning that it operates during this time period without requiring any manual winding via the crown. However, in order to improve chronometric accuracy, autonomy is deliberately reduced to 44 hours by means of the “Maltese cross” stopwork mechanism, which guarantees a more stable driving force.

While the KF brand is synonymous with fine watchmaking, it devotes its keenest attention to chronometry – the term used to designate high-precision time measurement.

It all began a few years ago with the construction of the first rim-free balance-wheel featuring two round peripheral weights held by a dedicated arbor. While this resolutely innovative design is above all a nod to marine chronometers, which also worked with large balance-wheels, it is also a reference to chronometry and its origins.

Based on this new balance-wheel, two new innovations enrich this ongoing quest for precision. The first concerns a recurrent problem in watchmaking: thermal coefficient, or the expansion of certain components during temperature changes. This is a major challenge, especially when it impacts the components that form the heart of the watch, in this case the regulating organ. A temperature increase of a few degrees influences the balance-wheel, which expands outwards, sometimes causing a loss of several seconds. This phenomenon is partially compensated by the balance-spring which tends to generate a time gain. For decades, traditional watchmaking has therefore used what are known as “self-compensating” balance-wheels, thereby substantially mitigating expansion-related phenomena. This new construction makes it possible to take a step forward by creating a balance-wheel capable of providing compensation described as “auxiliary”, in order to further reduce the impact linked to the thermal coefficient not resolved by a traditional self-compensating balance-wheel.

This new balance-wheel, made of non-magnetic steel, can withstand an inertia of 85 gr/mm2 and has a hardness of up to 600 Vickers. It is therefore more resistant to shocks.

In practice, the balance-wheel plate forms one arbor crossing through the centre of the balance-wheel, thus enabling an extension of the material in the event of a temperature increase. This extension is contained by a second arbor (the bar), which remains invariable. Therefore, when the material expands, the force is redirected to the affix arms. Each arm is solidly attached to the invariable arbor by a screw-fitted pivot point enabling the balance-wheel to move inwards. The affix arms can then accommodate, at different places, a certain number of screws (of different sizes and materials) making it possible to influence the effective mass, thus offering the watchmaker the possibility of working on the variations of inertia related to the thermal coefficient. This is the so-called “auxiliary compensation” principle. Located opposite the affix arms, two auxiliary classification weights serve to adjust the variable weight of the balance-wheel. Their purpose is to compensate for the weight of the screws placed on the two affix arms so that the balance-wheel is neither too heavy nor too light. Moreover, given that every detail counts, their surfaces can be personalised (notably by engraving or gemsetting). Finally, a third arbor, perpendicular to the first, is fitted on either end with two screws, enabling fine adjustments on the one hand, as well as classification of the balance-wheel at 18,000 vibrations per hour.

KARSTEN CRONOREGOLATORE CARUSO

In conclusion, the innovation of this mechanism lies in its ability to exercise a real influence on the thermal coefficient that is normally set once the balance-wheel has been paired with its hairspring. But in this waltz performed by these two components, the balance-spring always has the upper hand, given that it is manually-crafted and endowed with its own nature that is by definition unique for each watch. Tolerating no alterations or transformations, the balance-wheel is thus charged with handling the vagaries of time, naturally including changes in temperature. Nevertheless, the balance-spring must also resist the ever-increasing magnetic fields in our daily lives, which is why it is made of a “Straumann” alloy capable of withstanding magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss. In terms of its operation, the balance-spring – which should ideally “breathe” concentrically to avoid any unbalance (phenomenon of loss or gain of the watch in vertical positions) – is equipped with an external “Phillips” curve and an internal “Grossman” curve.This new balance-and-spring assembly is undoubtedly the Stradivarius of chronometry, as it enables fine and sophisticated adjustment of the regulating organ. Therein lies the beauty of this process, in which the expert hand of the watchmaker timer shapes the heart of the watch by reading and interpreting the most sensitive components of its “engine”.

But what would such a splendid and beautiful sight be without providing an opportunity to observe it? The balance-stop function is therefore the second new feature here, a mechanism enabling the wearer of the watch to stop the tourbillon carriage and its balance-wheel at any time in order to contemplate its magical inner workings.

LINK TO THE MONTRE-KF 'S WEB SITE