Expatriate Women in Saudi Arabia

Most of your day is spent at the school or at the compound, so our day-to-day lives are pretty normal.  Foreign women do not have to wear face covers (niqaab) or hair coverings/scarves (hijab) and there are some more progressive cities in the Kingdom where women don’t wear an abaya, but Al Ahsa is still quite conservative by comparison.  Off the compound, women should dress modestly and wear an abaya.  Foreign women are also allowed to travel anywhere in Saudi Arabia on their own. It is alright for non-married people to go out together; however, they should respect the conservative nature of Saudi culture and refrain from public displays of affection.

Transportation

Shabaka has buses and vans that take us to school. Women are allowed to drive, but many people use taxi apps or use the compound assistant who is available to pick up dry cleaning, take out, etc. for a small tip. Taxis are not expensive here. You can download Taxi applications, such as Careem and Uber. Please note that generally, women do not sit in the front seat of a taxi.  Some people rent cars from Bahrain and bring them back to Saudi to drive.  

Gender Segregation

Gender segregation is less common in Saudi but there are still some businesses with “Family” and “Singles” sections, which are clearly marked on the doors.  In this case, women or men accompanied by women would go in the “Family” section and men would go in the “Single” section.  Several restaurants deliver as well, and many people use the Hunger Station app.

Many places have queues specifically for women, for example, in the airport and train station.  Al Ahsa Hospital also has waiting rooms for women, with a curtain over the entrance.  

Compound 

The apartments are fully furnished and equipped with basic necessities. Many teachers like to personalize and beautify their apartments. There are several home furnishing/appliance stores and markets where you can purchase carpets and traditional crafts. Generally, most household items are widely available and reasonably priced. There are 4 shopping trips each week that take teachers to the large department stores.

We have a clubhouse where everyone is free to arrange potlucks and BBQs by the pool.  Private parties are not permitted as these spaces are for everyone. We also have a well-stocked gym, including treadmills, elliptical machines, and weights. Some evenings you will find a group of teachers gathered at the pool playing cards or smoking shisha. We encourage teachers to try to engage in social gatherings in order to help prevent feelings of isolation that can be easily experienced here.

Shopping

You can get most of the foods you normally get back home in the stores here, even if you are a vegetarian, vegan, lactose intolerant, or have food allergies. There are lots of soy products, although you may not find them in the quantities you’re used to. The vegetables in the markets are pretty good. Tamimi offers many imported products from health food to junk food and you will recognise many labels from home. This store is also a veritable veggie/vegan delight. Anything you really can’t get here, you will most likely find in Bahrain. 

Real woman sizes are readily available in both high end (La Senza, Victoria’s Secret) and cheaper franchise department stores (CityMax, Red Tag, H&M). There is a wide variety of styles and colours – just like you would find at home.  Al Othaim Mall is walking distance from the compound.

At Work

Teaching women is generally great. They are eager to learn, will work hard to get top marks, and will want to become your friend. Unfortunately, that can be a bit of a downside. They love their teachers and find it difficult to differentiate the relationships. They may also try to gain “wasta” with their teachers. This is the “who you know” facet of Arabic life. People’s connections get them a long way. Some have a lot of wasta, some have none. They will try to do things for you to gain wasta like give gifts or food. It is important that teachers maintain their academic integrity by not accepting such gifts. We set clear rules and guidelines for students which we do not deviate from.

You must wear a full length skirt or long, loose slacks with a tunic type shirt that covers the groin. Bring at least two long skirts and you can easily buy more once you are here. They are inexpensive and there are several styles and colors available. You also have to wear long or ¾ sleeves so that the elbow is covered. Shirts and cardigans can easily be found in malls here. Your shirt’s neckline also must be high enough to not show cleavage. You should bring one or two pairs of shoes that are comfortable and look nice, we may wear high heeled shoes and open toed sandals but no flip flops. We are often on our feet for 4 hours a day, but must look professional in the university setting. You can also wear nail polish on your fingers and toes, many teachers wear colorful scarves and accessories. The university’s air conditioning also works very well, a little too well, so you may want to bring a sweater to work. 

There are numerous food stands in the buildings where you can get donuts, sandwiches, coffee, pita, falafel etc. Since we have a refrigerator and a microwave most teachers pack a lunch.

Dressing to go out

As was mentioned, you should wear an abaya whenever you are outside the compound. Once you are on the women’s campus you can remove it and teach in your regular clothes (long skirt and long sleeves). Abayas can be very hot in the summer but they are required. They are made in various types of fabric, so choose one that will breathe a bit better during the summer. We do not wear them on the compound. You can get an abaya for about $25, or you can buy some that are over $100. Most women have at least 2. Under your abaya, you can wear just about whatever you want when you’re going out to shop. Just ensure that your abaya is closed completely if you are wearing summer clothes like shorts or short skirts. It is not necessary to purchase an abaya in your home country. You will not need to wear an abaya when you arrive as long as you are dressed modestly and there are many abayas hanging in the lobby of building 9 that you can help yourself to. 

Compound dress code

You can wear pretty much whatever you like at the compound. Whether it’s a bikini, shorts, tank top, flip-flops, or barefooted. But if you need to go to the gate to pick up deliveries, please dress modestly.  Also, winter can be quite chilly here, so you may want to bring a few wintery items. Most things can be bought when you arrive here though.

Make-up and Salons

We have found a good salon/spa that is inexpensive. Hair cuts, manicures, pedicures, massages are all at average western prices. There is a salon on the women’s campus as well.  You’ll find a lot of the familiar brand names from home in the shops, like Sephora and Claires. 

What to pack

Don’t overpack. With the rare exception, you can buy everything you need here or in neighbouring Bahrain. You can get birth control here and condoms are available. If there are medications you take on a regular basis, try to bring 2 or 3 months supply. Not everything is available here and you may need to go into Bahrain for some medicine. Also, any over-the- counter (OTC) medications that you use regularly and don’t want to chance not having available here, such as eye drops (it’s dry here). If you can not live without a certain brand name product, bring your own supply. In terms of sanitary products, anything other than sanitary pads might be difficult to find, so bring tampons if you use them.

If you have a child, you might want to carry the essential medication that they may need.

If you have any hobbies, such as knitting or designing crafts you may want to bring your own supplies. There are however stationery stores that carry art supplies but have a limited selection for crafts.

Here’s a small list of bare essentials to pack.

• 1 or 2 maxi/long skirts

• 1 or 2 long or ¾ sleeve shirts

• 1 cardigan

• 1 swimsuit

• 1 or 2 pairs of professional looking comfortable clothes

• 1 or 2 sets of clothes for the compound (summer dress/shorts/gym clothes)

• Travel size toiletries to last the first few days here

• Cosmetics

• 1 towel

Moving to Saudi Arabia is a decision that any woman should consider carefully. You will not enjoy the same kind of freedom of movement or activities that you are used to; however, it is a fascinating time to live in the Middle East and Saudi Arabia is changing rapidly. It is especially exciting to witness the mobilization of women and teaching young women definitely gives you the feeling that you are directly involved in facilitating opportunities for Saudi women. We have a good group of female teachers returning to teach next year who will be able to provide professional support, friendship and give you advice about where to go and what to do. Living and working in Saudi Arabia is an unforgettable and rewarding experience that you will not regret if you come with an open mind.

Women’s FAQ

What length of skirt can I wear in the classroom?

– You must wear a full length skirt, no exceptions to the length. Bring one and buy more once you are here. They are inexpensive.  You can also wear loose-fitting trousers - no leggings please.

What’s it really like for expatriate women in Saudi Arabia?

– It’s not as bad as you think and it’s becoming less and less restricted as time passes. Most of your day is spent at the school and in the compound. So, it’s pretty normal teaching and living. It’s outside the compound that is more difficult. The temperature can be 50C, but you still must wear your abaya. Men WILL stare at you if you are not properly dressed. 

That being said, women are allowed to drive and are free to go to most places that men are.  Things have changed a lot for women here in Saudi and people have adjusted quite quickly.  Personally, I drive in Saudi and Bahrain, have never been asked to cover my hair and go where I want.    

I’m a vegetarian/lactose intolerant/have food allergies. Will that be a problem?

– You can get most of the foods you normally get back “home” in the stores here. There are lots of soy products, although you may not find it in the quantities you’re used to. The vegetables in the markets are pretty good, and they love nuts so you can find tons of those. Some labels have no English so if you have allergies, stick to products where you can read the ingredients in English.

Can I get birth control there?

– If you are single, it is illegal for you to have sex, therefore, you can’t really get birth control, other than condoms. Bring an adequate supply from home.

What kind of feminine supplies are available?

– Because tampons are believed to ruin your virginity, they are very difficult, if not impossible to find. So, there are lots of brands of maxis etc.

Do they carry “real woman” size clothes there? (Not like in Asia where they are all very thin!)

– Yes, they have real women here. They have real woman bra sizes, too. And, as a bonus, the lingerie shops are now staffed by women. (Until March 2012, you had to buy your lingerie from a man!)