JULY
There's a variety of plants in the demonstration garden at the Extension Office.
Perennials, Annuals, Bulbs
Divide and transplant Daylilies, Irises and Peonies after they finish blooming (every couple of years).
Divide older bearded iris rhizomes; cut out the woody parts and replant the rest.
Before mid-July
Remove one-third of growth off fall-blooming perennials to encourage abundant flowers and compact growth
Prune Hydrangea Macrophylla and Gardenias as blooms fade
Lightly fertilize ever-blooming and fall-blooming roses for their autumn display.
Don’t pinch back mums or dahlias after July 1 or you may disrupt their fall blooming show.
Pinch leggy shoots of Begonias, Coleus and Geraniums to create more shapely plants.
Transplant and divide with care -- keep transplants moist.
To speed new growth, lightly fertilize perennials after pruning.
Make a final pinching of fall bloomers, such as Chrysanthemums and Asters.
Cut Columbine back to the ground when all flowering is finished so that fresh foliage will develop.
Remove spent flowers from perennials and annuals to promote plant vigor and growth.
Remove canna flower stalks when seeds begin to develop.
Prune crowded perennials and deadhead to keep them in their space and control reseeding.
Plant seeds of Foxglove, Butterfly Weed, Shasta Daisies, Yarrow, Purple Coneflower, and Black-Eyed Susans now.
Inspect plants regularly—aphids, beetles, thrips and white flies are at their worst this month.
Japanese beetles continue to eat their way through our yards
Hand pick and drown in a bucket of soapy water.
Vegetables
Pick beans, squash and tomatoes regularly to increase production
For sweetness, pick peas and corn late in the day (when they contain the most sugar, especially if the day was cool and sunny)
Other vegetables, like lettuce and cucumbers, are crisper and tastier if harvested in the morning
Plant beans and carrots now.
Plants of collards and brussel sprouts can be set out mid-July
Through August, start seeds indoors for collards, spinach, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower
Remove lower suckers on tomatoes and lightly fertilize to keep production going
Plant tomatoes for fall
Herbs & Fruits
Strawberries may have finished producing, but keep them mulched and add light fertilizer for next year’s crop.
Herbs begin to mature this month—the best time to harvest them for peak flavor/scent is early morning after the dew is dry.
Reap what you’ve grown. If you have more than you need, share with friends or a nearby retirement or assisted living center.
Lawn & Landscaping
Change directions when mowing—go east to west one mowing, and then switch to north to south (or on a diagonal) for the next.
During droughts: Either apply one inch of water per week or allow grass to go dormant.
Water a dormant lawn every three weeks.
Do not fertilize cool-season lawns until September.
It is a good idea to submit your soil samples for analysis this month, to determine nutrient requirements for application this fall.
Most of the year (generally April through November), routine NCDA&CS soil tests are provided at "no direct cost" to North Carolina residents.
Watch for brown patch and continue checking for grubs.
Trees, Shrubs & Groundcovers
Fertilize trees and shrubs for the last time this year.
Do not prune spring flowering shrubs after July 15th.
Continue staking tall trees/shrubs before they fall over.
Mulch to conserve moisture. Do not crowd or pack mulch around lower stems and trunks.
Scout landscape plants such as Japanese maple, Leyland cypress and junipers for bagworms forming, and apply an insecticide labeled for bagworms.
Bags may also be picked off and burned later in the season, if legally allowed in your area.
Prune “bleeder” trees (maple, dogwood, birch and elm) this month, if needed.
Remove spent crepe myrtle and buddleia blossoms to prolong the flowering period.
Take semi-hard cuttings now from aucuba, azalea, buddleia, camellia, clematis, nandina, gardenia, holly, kerria, Confederate rose and weigela.
If shrubs need light trimming, don’t wait any longer; the tender re-growth could be killed back over winter.
Hot, dry weather favors powdery mildew. As soon as you notice the disease, spray every 7-14 days (according to label directions).
Spider mites are another problem during hot and dry weather
Reduce their numbers with horticultural oil or spray insecticidal soap.
More to do....always!
Don’t forget the sunscreen. Wear a hat, and remember to drink water while working outside for extended periods!