Outdoor Education…Character development through the outdoors

Climbing technique

Top climbing tips:

Keep your core close to the wall
FInd your balance points by positioning your core so that when you take your hand off, you don't move. Consider flagging (limb out to one side) to do so.
Watch your foot all the way onto the hold
Use your legs more than your arms
Keep breathing throughout the climb, don't hold your breath
Read the route before stepping onto the wall
When moving, lead with a pull up so not to swing
Actively climb faster

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Body Position

To use your body effectively while climbing you need to understand how the position of your core, or trunk, can assist the movement of your arms and legs.

Climbing can be regarded as a flowing series of movements by the body’s trunk. For most males this core is about 2.5 cm above the navel and slightly lower for females. An awareness of the relationship between the core and the points of contact will pay off enormously in allowing you to climb efficiently, as the body needs to start and finish each sequence in a state of balance.

Try this…

Stand with your feet braced at shoulder width, so your core is comfortably midway between your legs. Without shifting your point of balance try to lift either foot.

If you left your core where it was, it is not possible to lift either foot and trying to do this on the rock face would waste arm strength from fighting gravity. If you are leaning right to reach a hold, your weight will be concentrated on the right foot. So to initiate a step left it is often more efficient to lean right first in order to free the foot to move.

Effective use of the body often demands harmony between the left and the right sides. Often the right hand works in partnership with the left foot, and vice versa.

Keep your centre of gravity directly over your feet as they can take the weight. The further your trunk is pushed outwards, the harder your arms will have to pull to keep you on the rock. The upper body can be brought inwards by adopting a ‘frog’s legs’ posture or by turning your pelvis and pulling it in towards the rock.

Using the outside of your feet

The centre of gravity principle means that you should keep as close to the wall as possible. This generally implies turning your feet outward and using the inside edges of your boots.

However, a much greater reach can be achieved in certain cases if you use the outside of the boot and stand on tiptoe. It takes a while to get used to doing this, but it is worth it. The point you use on the outside of the foot is further forward than where you would normally stand on the inside.

Rock Climbing Footholds

Edging: A foothold position wherein the foot is precisely held on the hold, generally on the inside area of the big toe. The angle of the foot to the wall should be about 45 degrees. Raise the heel for more precision, lower the heel to rest. This is the most common face-climbing foothold. You can also use the outside edge of the foot, around the little toe area, when back stepping.

Front pointing: A foot position wherein the foot is perpendicular to the climbing surface, and the very front of the shoe is edging. The heel is generally held high for maximum purchase. This foothold works well in pockets.

Smearing: A foot position wherein maximum sole area is applied to the rock. Generally, the toe is pointed up and the foot is flexed, heel low, allowing maximum contact of the sole of the shoe to grip the rock. Used for sloping holds, friction slabs, and lie backing, and anytime there is no feature to edge on.

Back stepping: A technique wherein the climber is sideways to the rock, with the hips perpendicular to the climbing surface. The climber back steps and reaches with the arm on the rock side of the body. This works best on vertical and overhanging terrain.

Rest position: A position wherein the climber hangs straight off an arm, using the skeletal system, not muscles, from which to hang the body.

Crunch: A position wherein the feet are brought up close to the hands. This is a strenuous position to hold because so much muscle flexing is required.

Flagging: A technique to counterweight with a Ieg to maintain balance. Flag in by crossing one leg behind the other leg, or flag out by counter weighting with a leg to the side.

Highstep: A move wherein the climber steps very high to a foothold, rocks onto it with the body, then presses up with leg muscles to stand tip. This is effective but tough on the knees.

Rock Climbing Handholds

Crimp: A handhold position for a very small hold wherein the fingers are hyper extended (first knuckle flexed). Locking the thumb around the fingers increases power. This is the strongest way to hold small edges, but it is hard on the fingers. Taping the areas between the knuckles helps support the fingers and is recommended for sustained crimping. Grip with the pads of the fingers, not the tips or nails.

Open grip: A handhold grip wherein the fingers are not hyper extended but in a natural open position.

Pinch: A handhold position, squeezing a vertical hold between thumb and fingers.

Pocket: A handhold created by a hole. Pockets range in size from a single-finger pocket to one large enough for all four fingers. Try to keep your fingers in the open position when gripping pockets. Some climbers find that the middle and ring fingers are the strongest two fingers for a two-finger pocket. Hold your index and little fingers with your thumb on a two-finger pocket.

Side pull: A vertical handhold pulled on with the fingers, with the thumb up and the fingers aligned vertically and reaching away from the body.

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