Taman Negara

Note: this is based entirely on a 2003 visit. There have likely been changes.

WHAT IS IT: Protected tropical rainforest with a good trail network. The park is in the centre of peninsular Malaysia.

INFORMATION: General guidebooks provide a basic outline (e.g. Rough Guide, Lonely Planet). We found the best hiking reference is “Visitor’s Guide to Taman Negara” by David Bowden, 2000, Globetrotter guide. We’ve seen it in some travel bookshops and in some libraries but don’t expect to find this guide book in Taman Negara.

ACCESS: The main camp in the Southern end of the park at Kuala Tahan (Pahang) offers easiest access to the most extensive trail sections. Buses from Kuala Lumpur and Kuantan go directy to Jerantut. There is an hourly bus from Temerloh (on the Kuantan-KL route). Most people take the 9;00am or 3:00pm boat from Jerantut pier up to Kuala Tahan. However, there is also an inexpensive twice daily bus from Jerantut to Kuala Tahan (5:45 am and 13:00 from Jernatut).

ACCOMODATION: Kuala Tahan village (outside of the park, but just across the river) offers accommodation for every budget. The lodge at Park HQ looked nice (not cheap). We camped at the park HQ camp and ate across the river on floating restaurants. “Rumbia” restaurant was excellent for food and atmosphere. Small boats constantly went back and forth from Kuala Tahan to the Park HQ for 50 sen.

CAMPING IN THE PARK: Minimal fee. There are a number of designated sites, but there did not seem to be any restrictions where you camp when hiking. The deserted Keniam Lodge or fishing huts at Perkai and Lata Berkoh would offer shelter in case of rain. The Lata Berkoh campsite has a rain shelter. An hour upriver from Lata Berkoh is a beautiful informal camping spot alongside the river.

MAPS: Not much is available. Don’t expect any detailed maps on arrival in Taman Negara. The “Visitor’s Guide to Taman Negara” has reasonably good trail maps. Topographic maps would have limited usefulness (the rainforest is thick, with few obvious landmarks, other than rivers).

EQUIPMENT: Most camping equipment including stoves can be rented at Kuala Tahan (either privately or at the Park campground). We had our own equipment. We used sleeping sheets and shared a thin blanket for sleeping in our well-ventilated tent. We didn’t think any special footwear was required (comfortable shoes were adequate). Although stream water should be clean, water purification tablets or better still a pump system are recommended.

TRAILS: Refer to any of the guidebooks mentioned earlier. The Gunung Tahan (110km), Rentis Tenor and the Kuala Keniam to Kuala Trenggan tracks all apparently require guides. The Keniam to Perkai trail was lightly traveled with more chance of animal sightings. The Keniam to Trenggan track was traveled daily by small organized groups. The Kuala Tahan to Kuala Trenggan trails were in reasonable condition. A trail has been cut beyond Lata Berkoh offering excellent opportunities on the beautiful Tahan River (the trail does not appear on any map).

ORGANIZED HIKES: For those not comfortable going out n their own, the LBK floating restaurant (backpackers hub) organized 3 day hikes for RM250 and 4 day hikes for RM350 per person.

DAY HIKES AROUND KUALA TAHAN (HQ): These were good, although there was less chance of seeing larger animals on these busier trails. We did see wild pigs and mouse-deer near Kuala Tahan.

WHEN TO GO: February to September is the dry season and apparently February-March and August are the driest months. August is busy with European visitors. Chinese New Year period would also be busy. We had an amazing 12 days without any rain in late February-early March, 2003.

BOATS FROM KUALA TAHAN: We chartered a boat to Kuala Keniam for RM120. Later we found there are plenty of local boats that go up and down the Trenggan River each day. There are no local boats going up to Lata Berkoh, so you’ll have to walk or charter.

SUGGESTIONS: Lata Berkoh trail is beautiful; go further up river and make it a 3 or 4 day trip. Perkai hike was real adventure but there was not much to do at Perkai. The Keniam to Kuala Tahan trails were also nice.

HEAT AND HUMIDITY: Don’t underestimate the climate! Expect a speed of 2.5 km per hour on easy flat terrain and 1.5 km per hour on hilly terrain. 8 kilometres doesn’t sound like very far, but after 3 hours of sweating, you stop fully appreciating the surroundings. Anything over 10 kilometres is more of a march than an enjoyable hike. Relax, walk shorter distances and enjoy the rainforest. If you pass anywhere near a river, stop and go for a swim!

SUPPLIES: shops in Kuala Tahan sell basic general foodstuffs including vegetables. We bought more “exotic” food like muesli in a supermarket in a larger Malaysian town.

FISHING: I did not have much luck with small spinners. The fish seemed to be more interested in fruit and vegetables.

NIGHT HIDES: The hides looked like good places to sit and talk with other tourists at night and watch rats try to get your food. Don’t expect to see large animals at the hides. We found camping in quiet spots (actually lots of noisy bugs) much more appealing.

DON’T BE PUT OFF BY THE FOLLOWING BECAUSE IT IS SUCH A SPECIAL PLACE: Lack of information at Park HQ, lack of maps at park HQ, grotty toilets at Park HQ campground (run by the lodge), boat traffic and noise along the big rivers, sometimes poor maintenance of the trails, the boat mafia (high prices), close proximity of villages and leeches.

CONSIDER: “Night Safaris” that are trips into oil palm plantations in a vehicle to see common leopard cats and other interesting nocturnal creatures. You can book one of these at a few of the floating restaurants.