Italy 2017 Part I

Pisa & Tuscany

Cycling Tuscany

April-May 2017

A Day in Pisa

We had an evening Ryan Air flight from Malta to Pisa to start our Italian journey. We enjoyed a full day in Pisa. We started the morning with the tower. The carabinieri would chase the tourists off the grassy area, then disappear and the tourists would then move into the grassy area to take fun photographs until the carabinieri arrived again.

A group photograph

Just a little push

Careful, don't fall off the railing....

More strength was required for this one

There is more to Pisa than the tower

Pisa architecture

Pisa city workers at lunch

I dd not sort my life out and it took an ugly turn

TUSCANNY BY BIKE

I had arranged to rent carbon-fibre bikes with back racks and panniers from a company based (rentalbikeitaly) in Livorno. We caught the train for Pisa and a bus to collect them on the outskirts of Livorno. With no alternate accommodation along the way, our first day proved to be one of the longest of our Tuscan ride (75km with 700m of elevation gain). We arrived in Volterra before evening showers.

Heading east from sea level and Livorno

Just a 300m ascent separated us from Volterra on the hilltop at the end of the day.

Climbing the steep road into Volterra

Volterra on a rainy night

Wild boar; yummy!

Alberguo Etruria patio in Volterra

Alberguo Etruria provided an excellent breakfast

Volterra

Volterra by night

We had two nights in Volterra. Glenn went off on a 61km ride (1100m elevation) ride to Castel San Gimignano while Sheila explored Volterra. Castel San Gimignano was heaving with tourists, while Volterra seemed moderately touristy, in a good way. Volterra has a long history and proved to be a nice stopover.

Day ride to Castel San Gimignano

Castel San Gimignano skyscrapers

Castel San Gimignano

Castel San Gimignano

I developed the route with ridewithgps before the ride and pre-booked the accommodation (mostly with booking.com). I tried to keep daily distances down to allow for afternoons in the various towns. It worked out well, especially without any rain. The riding was not as difficult as we feared. Traffic was moderate to light on the secondary roads.

The following day, we had 50km ride from Volterra to Siena with some interesting towns along the way.

East of Volterra

Our route west of Colle di Val d'Elsa

Walking through Colle di Val d'Elsa

Cream filled croissants in Monteriggioni

We had a kitchenette in our room (Residence Le Meridiane) and we had plenty of time in the afternoon to visit the atmospheric centre of Siena. There were a lot of tourists wandering around like ourselves. We picked up some groceries for dinner and breakfast along the way back to our hotel.

Siena

Siena

Siena

Siena Basilica

Siena Fortezza

The Crete Senesi is range of barren hills to the south of Siena. We rode through the Crete on our 60km ride to Montalcino which was a pleasant stopover.

Crete Senesi, south-east of Siena

Siena Fortezza

Crete Senesi, south-east of Siena

A white road of Crete Senesi

Buonconvento

Buonconvento

Approaching Montalcino

Montalcino

It was May Day and we had a short day of 30km to Castel del Piano. In planning the route, it didn't look like there were many accommodation options before Pitigliano, hence the shorter day. We stopped in at Abbazia di Sant'Antimo but it was not open for viewing. There was a market going on at Castel del PIano when we arrived, but once it shut down at 12:00pm, the town went quiet.

The staff at Grand Hotel Impero were especially welcoming. We had a nice room and we had a look around town for restaurants and decided to eat at the hotel that night. It was a good choice.

We left the Albergo Giardino, Montalcino bright and early

Abbazia di Sant'Antimo

Approaching Castel del Piano

Grand Hotel Impero Spa & Resort, Castel del Piano

Dinner at the Grand Hotel Impero

Dinner courses at the Grand Hotel

We had some uphill riding from Castel to Pitigliano, 65kms away. Although the traffic on the Tuscan secondary roads had been light, as we went further south, it was almost non-existent.

Leaving Arcidosso

Mural in a small rural church along the way

Southern Tuscany

Sovana

Pitigliano was light with tourists. We stayed in the old part of town in a quirky studio that had been dug out of solid rock. We managed to trip one of the fuses and that took a while to sort out because the fuse box was out on the street.

Approaching Pitigliano

Apartment Seminello, Pitigliano

Pitigliano by day

Pitigliano by night

It was an 85km ride to Orbetello, but much of it was downhill to the coast. It was excellent riding.

Pitigliano departure

Quiet rural roads west of Pitigliano

Closing in on the coast

Feniglia near Orbetello

A well deserved beer on the Park Hotel rooftop, Orbetello

Orbetello

We changed direction and rode north, sometimes near the Mediterranean. We had some lovely sections and after buying groceries in Vada, we rode through agricultural lands to a nice self-catering set-up, that even had a beautiful swimming pool.

Passing through the seaside town of Cecina

Agricultural road, east of Vada

Antico Podere San Francesco, near Vada was only 44 Euros/night.

Our accommodation had a nice pool

We closed the loop on the final ninth day, riding into Livorno (30km). There were not many options so we rode on the SS1 for about 10km, sometimes without a shoulder. We were happy to reach the outskirts of Livorno and get off the SS1 for the waterfront. We dropped the bikes off at a predetermined house, caught a bus to the main station and went to Lucca for the week-end.

South of Livorno

The northbound SS1 was poor cycling, just south of Livorno

Livorno waterfront terrace

Livorno seaside

PHOTO ALBUMS

ITALY 2017 PART II

Cinque Terre & Cycling Riccione