Sri Lanka
2+ weeks, MARCH 2020
GENERAL COMMENTS
Sri Lanka is a very pleasant country where you won't be hassled like in India. The sun was intense even up in the hill country so we tried to do things in the mornings. Wilpattu National Park was most enjoyable. We enjoyed the food and did not find it overly spicy hot (choose wisely).
We traveled by bus and a little more than half our journeys were comfortable. As the trip went on, we gravitated to chartering taxis. Some tourists arrange for private cars and drivers for the duration of their trips and they certainly were able to squeeze more in their days, but we still enjoyed the experience of traveling on public transportation.
Our primary method of booking accommodation was with Booking.com, although we booked Wilpattu House directly.
March 2 - March 18, 2020
Day 0
We took a day flight from Muscat to Colombo with Oman Air. At the airport, we pulled Sri Lankan rupees from an ATM, cashed some dollars and purchased a local SIM card. We caught a taxi to nearby Negombo town where we had a non-memorable stay at the Lindaura Lagoon hotel.
Day 1
I used the PickMe app for our first tuk-tuk ride to bring us out onto the main road and then we waited for our first Sri Lankan bus ride. It was near full when we entered by the back door and we got a couple of the last seats available with our bags resting on our knees. It was inexpensive but not comfortable; a long almost three hours to Puttalam.
PickMe app
This free app is useful for arranging transport. You can pick your desired type of transport. I found vehicles available on the west side but less so in the centre of Sri Lanka. Even if a vehicle was not available, it would give approximate prices which was useful when hiring a tuk-tuk or taxi. It is not a prepaid system, so cash is exchanged when the journey is complete (it may vary depending on the route selected). We had at least one taxi driver agree on the price given on the app and then had me cancel the transaction, so that he would not have to pay a commission to PickMe. Recommended.
We had breakfast at a coffee shop in Puttalam and then we took a half hour tuk-tuk ride to Wilpattu House. Our driver tried to convince us to charter him for the following leg of our trip, but long hours in a tuk-tuk didn't appeal to us. Sri Lankan roads appear dangerous and tuk-tuks are not really safe.
I had booked a couple of nights at Wilpattu House and they were expecting us, for a full lunch
Our room at Wilpattu house was rustic but comfortable.
Sereno, of Wilpattu House, took us for a swim in the local river. We floated around for about an hour; we had a fun chat with our well spoken host. I had left my plastic Casio watch with my flip flops and one of the dogs that had followed us, picked it up and started to run off with it. Sereno and I gave chase and the dog dropped the watch on the footpath. Funny.
Day 2
Our host had arranged a safari driver/guide for the day for about $70/day plus park fees. We had a FULL day in Wilpattu National Park.
Wilpattu offers a variety of landscapes including many naturally occurring ponds. It is one of the less visited parks in Sri Lanka but very worthwhile.
Wilpattu is well known for its bird life.
There was plenty of monkey business in Wilpattu.
We had good sightings of elephants and wild boar. Many visitors really want to see leopards and we spent much of the afternoon going to known leopard haunts, and you could tell that our guide was well and truly relieved to show us one at the end of the day.
Day 3
Our stay at Wilpattu House was fun. Sereno was a terrific host and we really enjoyed his company. He sent us a number of emails before and during our Sri Lanka trip with ideas of where to go. We probably should have heeded more of his advice. We highly recommend Wilpattu House .
Many Sri Lankan journeys start with a tuk-tuk ride. Our driver waited with us to ensure we got on the correct bus.
We figured out that you should board buses by the front door and put your luggage down by the driver (the racks above seats are tiny).
We arrived at Anuradhapura and ate at this restaurant. Rather than overnight it, we visited one historic site and then continued on to Habarana.
Many Sri Lankan places and names seem almost unpronounceable and "Isurumuniya Rajamaha Viharaya", Anuradhapura was no exception.
We were pro's by the time we took the bus from Anuradhapura to Habarana.
I booked 3 nights at Levona Garden Resort, Habarana and we were not disappointed!
Our A/C room at the Levona Garden Resort cost $25/night
The room rate included an authentic Sri Lankan breakfast. It was all good.
In the afternoon, we took a tuk-tuk to mysterious Ritigala
Ruins of the ancient monastery of Ritigala.
It was here that Hanuman lept from to save Sita in Hindu mythology.
Day 4
We took a tuk-tuk from Habarana to Sigiriya and made the climb up the ancient rock fortress with all the other tourists.
Sigiriya staircase old and new
There were the ruins of a large complex on top of the rock and outstanding views from Sigiriya.
A note on foreign tourist fees
Many things are relatively inexpensive in Sri Lanka. However, foreigners pay a premium to visit many of the country's historical sites and national parks. It adds up. Sigiriya has a $30 entry fee, Polonnaruwa Ancient City is $25, Dambulla Caves is a bargain at about $8. National Parks charge $15 plus a vehicle fee.
That afternoon, we took an afternoon bus to Dambulla to see the amazing caves
While our afternoon bus had been only half full, we figured the return bus to Habarana might be busier.
It was standing-room only Dambulla to Habarana. It was much more uncomfortable than this photo indicates.
Day 5
We caught a morning bus to Polonnaruwa and rented bikes for the day. Once again, the return bus was super uncomfortable.
The ancient city of Polonnaruwa was impressive and spread out.
As the day progressed at Polonnaruwa, both the heat and number of tourists increased. Footwear and hats are not permitted in temple areas. I had to wait patiently to take this photo for an opening without people. By early afternoon, we were done and returned to Habarana.
Day 6
Our tuk tuk driver at Habarana was helpful. His English wasn't strong, so sometimes his son would translate (by phone).
The Habarana to Kandy bus was not busy and quite interesting. We passed through this small city where a festival was going on.
Kandy Sacred Tooth Relic temple draws huge crowds, especially on week-ends.
The Queens Hotel, Kandy is a classic. We wandered around it and talked to a group of Aussie guests who were on a custom train tour.
Kandy, street scene: making "hoppers" (bowl shaped crepes)
Kandy, stomach scene; a "paper dosa".
There are a number of evening Kandy traditional dance performances.
Day 7
We made an early start to beat the heat and spent the morning at the excellent Royal Botanic Gardens, Kandy.
One of the joys of experiencing a country's culture is eating.
We spent a couple of hours that afternoon, wandering around Kandy.
Day 8
The train journey between Kandy and Ella is very popular with tourists.
Kandy - Ella train passes through Sri Lankan hill country and tea plantations.
Locals are far out numbered by tourists, but they do add colour to the journey.
Some tourists hang out the doors for their Instagram photos while others show some restraint.
Ella is very much a tourist town.
We had very good Sri Lankan food in Ella.
Train tickets Kandy - Ella
Tickets for the this route are in high demand. Tourists that boarded without reserved seats were lucky to find seats, most were standing. There are apparently different options including getting on the train a stop before Kandy. Another is to ask at your hotel reception for help; sometimes they can find reserved seats starting at other stations and you can catch a taxi to your start point. There are also services available on the internet. We used one such service, "Visit Sri Lanka Tours", that purchased the tickets a month beforehand and then delivered the tickets for collection at our Kandy hotel.
Day 9
The Nine Trestle bridge is easy walking distance from Ella. It attracts tourists including quite a number of Russians, presumably taking a break from the beach.
Little Adams Peak is also a popular tourist destination. it got warm by late morning.
Little Adams Peak signage
We had a reunion with a couple (Bob and Jo) whom we had met at Habarana and would later reunite with in Galle.
More culture (lunch in Ella)
Day 10
Driving with Buddha. We were walking to the bus stand and spotted a tourist van service and we signed up for a van from Ella to Udawalawe.
It was hot in Udawalawe (38C). We stayed at the Green View Safari Resort but mostly sat inside for the A/C.
We walked over to the Udalwalawe elephant orphanage
Four times a day, the staff feed the 50 or so young elephants with milk.
Udalwalawe elephant orphanage is popular with foreigners and Sri Lankans alike.
And back the fed elephants go. We had small curry buffet dinners back at our guesthouse.
Day 11
Udalwalawe National Park was also hot and dry but with interesting birds.
Udalwalawe National Park boasts a large elephant population, but we saw mostly wild (feral) water buffaloes. As it was so hot, our hosts discouraged us from a full day tour. Unfortunatly, the best time to see elephants in the heat is at the end of the day as they come to the water and that was when we were hunkering down in A/C.
Day 12
We were on the home stretch and we decided to charter a taxi from Udalwalawe to Galle. Our driver made good conversation and the two-stroke Tata Nano was quite comfortable.
We opted for the tollroad; that particular section had just been open for a month. We didn't see any peacocks.
Galle is a good looking Dutch colonial city
Russian tourists in Galle. Photo taking can be a time consuming process to get just the right shot.
Late afternoon on the Galle waterfront
We discovered the Rampart Hotel for sundowners. We ate there too.
Day 13
Galle is a trendy tourist town.
There is plenty of tourist kitsch every where you look in Galle.
Nice statues but we were not tempted to buy one.
Galle has a couple of beautiful colonial churches
We met these Aussie women at our Kandy hotel and again in Galle. They were staying a colonial Dutch house, converted to a gorgeous hotel.
Galle was nice but after going up and down the same streets and ramparts over and over, we were satiated.
Galle by night
Galle by night
The Coranavirus pandemic had taken hold in other parts of the world and borders and airline routes were closing, so we cancelled our flight to the Maldives and booked flights to Japan and onto Vancouver.
Days 14 & 15
We had a couple of days before our flight out of Sri Lanka (flights to Narita were every 2nd day) and we found a discounted price for the Palms Hotel, Beruwalla
The pool at the Palms Hotel was quiet because many foreigners had already left and Sri Lanka was no longer admitting visitors or nationals.
Namesake palms of the hotel
Beruwalla may not be the best beach in Sri Lanka but it was on our way to Colombo airport.
Day 16
On our last day in Sri Lanka, we arranged a mini-van charter from Beruwalla, first to Negombo, where we had left some extra luggage, and then onto Colombo Airport.
PHOTO ALBUM
