Desolation Sound
April, 2021
A relaxing paddle stretched out over 5 days/4 nights, mid April 2021
We were experiencing ideal, sunny weather throughout mid-April. We selected a summer busy, close-to-home kayak destination (with the Covid travel advisories that were in place at the time). It was our first overnight paddle of the year and we planned to paddle for about 3 hours a day.
Highlights: fine weather, nice campsites, quiet compared to summer and the birds were amazing. Many of the wintering birds had not left yet, and the summer population had arrived.
Day 1: over the years, we have discovered that reaching Desolation Sound from Vancouver Island via Cortes Island is, in some ways, simpler than via Powell River. Unfortunately for us, the connecting ferry from Quadra to Cortes was full, so we had an additional two hour wait at Heriot Bay. When we reached Cortes Bay, we had lunch and got organized at the Regional District launch.
Ready, set, go! Launch time of 2:00pm.
Calm mid-afternoon waters as seen from one of the Powell islets.
Heading towards the mainland and Copeland islands
Throughout the first day, we could hear the sound of snow geese overhead. This was a large group, higher up than most. They were all heading north.
We passed by the Townley islands and reached the Copeland Islands at low tide. Originally, we had hoped to do some later afternoon paddling around the Copelands, but it was late enough and we carried our kayaks and gear up for the night. There was another tent set up on the inside/eastern side of the North Copeland campsite and we elected to pitch our tent on the western side for a view and some evening sun.
Judging by the vast array of tent platforms on North Copeland island, it could be busy in summer.
An evening cuppa of herbal tea.
It was idyllic camping at the water's edge on a flat tent platform. We brought thick sleeping pads that were almost as comfortable as sleeping on a bed.
From the campsite, we could look at the Vancouver Island mountains and enjoy an orange sunset
We had a flat water launch the following morning. The tide was high which made the process much easier.
On Day 2, we paddled along the western side of Malaspina peninsula, past Sarah Point, across the entrance of Malaspina inlet, by calm Zephine Head, over to the eastern side of Mink Island to the Curme islands. There were no other visible campers. As we had previously camped on the North Curme Islands, we opted for a tent pad on South Curme Island. It was the week-end and a few other visitors did arrive through Friday and Saturday, mostly in small aluminium boats (some brought inflatable paddle boards). There were no other kayakers staying at the Curme's that week-end.
Mainland BC, south of Sarah Point
Making the turn into Desolation Sound proper
Lowish tide landing on South Curme Island
Looking northwards toward the Northern Curme Islands
Camping on South Curme Island.
On Day 3, we day paddled through the small islands out to Holmfray Channel. In summer, it is chockablock with sailboats and motor cruisers, but there were only a handful of boats anchored in Prideaux Haven when we passed through.
Oyster catcher on rocks amongst the Curme Islands.
We poked around the North Curme Islands
Passing by Otter Island
Paddling deeper into Desolation Sound with Mt Denman in background
Viewing the local birdlife
End of the islands into Holmfray Channel where we were greeted by a couple of sea lions
We were back at camp for a late lunch. I wandered around our tiny island in the afternoon.
Low tide at South Curme Island. We hauled our kayaks up above the white (high tide) line overnight.
In my wanderings, I came around a corner and spooked a Canada Goose. I took a quick photo of the clutch of four eggs and moved on. Later we observed an otter heading in the direction of the clutch, perhaps hoping that it might be unattended.
We sat at the top of a small cliff/rock face and in the evening, the surf scoters came quite close to feed. They are by nature quite timid so it was quite a treat to see them so near. Scoters, in the thousands, winter in the region, and mostly disappear over summer.
Surf Scoters
Surf Scoters
Day 4: after two nights at the Curme Islands, we were ready to move on. The beautiful weather was continuing and we were in no rush to go home so we had a fairly short day ahead of us.
Heading out of Desolation Sound
Western side of Mink Island
We made a stopover at Martin Island. We have camped there before and were curious to see if there had been any improvements over the years (nice central area, but tent pitches remain slightly poor).
Vancouver Island view; the Mt Washington backside and Boomerang chair are clearly visible. Mt Albert Edward and Mt Regan are on the right side of the photo.
Ever watchful
We pulled up and stayed at the campsite on the north side of Kinghorn. We have stayed there a few times now. It can be a cold site when the NW wind blows, but it was calm and relatively warm. This is the view from the east side of the island.
Kinghorn camp is a little scruffy but it has a good bar/table set-up.
These grebes swam about below the camp and then came out onto shore. There was also a small group of porpoises milling about early evening.
Pacific loon at sunset
The Cortes ferries run every two hours and we opted to catch the 9:50am ferry, which meant that we needed to launch before 7:30am on our last day (Day 5).
The tides were kind to us that morning (easier launch at higher tide)
We had a calm morning on the Salish Sea
Rounding a corner in Cortes Bay
It was a short paddle of about 1 hour, 20 minutes to Cortes Bay boat launch. We got to the car, loaded up the gear and drove 20 minutes, arriving at the Cortes ferry terminal at about 9:20am. We did squeeze on the ferry, but had to wait for a second sailing of the Quadra to Campbell River ferry.
It was another successful paddle trip and a fine start to the 2021 kayak year.
