Mauritius
October- November 2017
Colourful Mauritius & Enchanting Rodrigues
Mauritius was also a convenient hub to reach La RĂ©union (225km) and the Seychelles (1750km).
It was a long journey to reach Mauritius with an overnight stay in Vancouver, followed by an overnight flight to Paris, and then another overnight flight to Mauritius. We booked a hotel near the Mauritius International Airport; it would become a hub for our flights to Reunion and to the Seychelles.
During our three days of partial jet lag recovery, we walked the local beaches, snorkeled Blue Bay, hiked Lion Mountain and wandered nearby Mahebourg.
Blue Bay from the air
Sunrise at Blue Bay, Mauritius
Blueberyl Guest House breakfast on our balcony
Beach walk from Blue Bay
Looking across to Lion mountain
Snorkeling at Blue Bay
There were some but not many fish
Snorkeling at Blue Bay
It was a two bus trip to reach the trailhead for Lion Mountain (490m). The hike took about 4 hours and it was meant to contribute to our preparation for trekking in La Reunion. "fitsy.com" was a good resource for planning walks in Mauritius.
Climbing Lion Mountain
Lion Mountain view to the east
Lion Mountain view to the north-west
Mahebourg Museum
Takeaway biriyani, Mahebourg
Mahebourg market
Blue Bay caters mostly to Mauritian day visitors and there were a couple of restaurants. The Blueberyl Guest House owners made delicious dinners on request. We accompanied the owners to a nearby supermarket on one occasion.
We flew to La RĂ©union for 2 weeks and returned to Blue Bay for a further 3 nights thereafter.
On our return from the RĂ©union trekking trip , Sheila wore a brace on her left ankle and the prospect of giant tortoises seemed to enhance the healing process The 30km trip to La Vanille Nature Park was three bus journey, so it took a while.
Mauritius has an extensive bus system
We walked the last section and it allowed us to inspect the sugar cane crop along the way.
Entrance to La Vanille Nature Park
Giant tortoise once roamed freely on Mauritius but were brought to extinction by European sailors. Only the aldabra species remains, living in small sanctuaries such as La Vanille Nature Park.
Feeding time, La Vanille Nature Park
The tortoises average 250kg in weight.
Eat your greens!
Tortoise, La Vanille Nature Park
Kids can ride the tortoises at the park
Return journey through Rivière Des Anguilles
Blue Bay rest day
Taking a dip at Blue Bay
It was onto the Seychelles from Mauritius for 2 1/2 weeks. On our return, we transferred to a domestic flight and went to the outer island of Rodrigues, 600km to the east.
RODRIGUES
We flew to Rodrigues for an 8 night stay and set ourselves up at a B&B at Pointe Coton. We were met a the airport and we arrived at our guest house in the dark. Whereas Mauritius has an "Indian" feel to it, Rodrigues is very much a creole island.
Our B&B hosts at Pointe Coton
Our B&B at Pointe Coton
The walk from Pointe Coton to Graviers was riddled with beaches. It is a beautiful coastal hike.
East coast hIke from Pointe Coton to Graviers
Swim stop at Trou d'Argent
Further along the east coast hIke
Near Graviers
Waiting for the bus to Pointe Coton (two bus journey).
Pointe Coton was a sleepy place. There was a small resort and a couple of other places to stay and eat. It was the terminus of a bus line.
Pointe Coton snack bar
Pointe Coton
Typical Rodrigues creole cooking
We did a couple of days of diving with a French operated dive operation at the Coton Bay Hotel.
Cotton Dive Centre dive guide
Taking the plunge
Rodrigues diving
Diving La Passe
Canyon dive, Rodrigues
Looking up at the breaking surf, canyon dive
nudibranch
Leaf scorpion fish
A good size grouper
We went into Port Mathurin for the Saturday Market Day. We found it very welcoming. Roughly 90% of the people are creoles, descendants of Malagasy and African slaves. English is the official language of the island.
Port Mathurin, Rodrigues
Port Mathurin
Young coconut vendor
Rodrigues bus: Ultimate comfort & Style
Rodrigues bus
Rodrigues bus: Prince of Love
Graviers had nice beaches that came alive on Sundays. Everyone seemed smiley especially when they got into the water.
Sunday afternoon at the beach
Sunday afternoon at the beach
Sunday afternoon at the beach
We made an excursion to ĂŽle aux Cocos, arranged by our B&B (taxi to the boat dock, boat trip, guide & lunch). It is a nature reserve with plenty of nesting noddies and terns.
Excursion to ĂŽle aux Cocos
ĂŽle aux Cocos
Noddies, ĂŽle aux Cocos beach
Noddy, ĂŽle aux Cocos
Tern, ĂŽle aux Cocos
Lunch on ĂŽle aux Cocos
Leaving ĂŽle aux Cocos
Returning to Rodrigues
It was another multi-bus journey to the other side of the island. We took the guided tour of the Francois Leguat Tortoise Park and caves. Once the guided aspect was over, we could spend as long as we wanted with the giant tortoises.
Aldabra giant tortoise
Tortoises really like to be scratched
On our final morning, we caught the bus to airport and the flight back to Mauritius.
Dorothy wishing us well on our departure from Pointe Coton
Rodrigues lagoon as seen from the plane
BACK TO MAURITIUS
As we approached the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Airport (Mauritius), it provided perspectives on the island. Parts of Mauritius are densely populated, however there are also vast sugar cane fields and with volcanic mountains running throughout island. Indo-Mauritians make about 2/3 of the total population (Indians were brought in as cane workers). As a tourist, Mauritius felt like "India Light".
The urbanized central plateau of Mauritius
Sugar cane country and volcanic remnants of Mauritius
We booked 4 nights at an apartment in Moka, slightly above the capital, near the large, modern Bagatelle Mall.
Joubarbe Residence in Moka district
Breakfast at our apartment
Sunset over the ocean from the balcony
We caught a bus from out front of the apartment and hiked up "Le Pouce" (812m)
Hiking up Le Pouce
Hiking up Le Pouce with Pieter 'Botha mountain in background
Just below the thumb shaped summit of Le Pouce
View of Port Louis from Le Pouce
Our next outing was a little more logistically complicated. We took a couple of inland buses to Pamplemousses to visit the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden.
Giant Amazonian water lily pads
Groundskeeper at work
From Pamplemousses, we caught a bus into the capital of Port Louis and had a look around.
Another bus ride
Outside the market, Port Louis
Port Louis snack
Port Louis lemonade
lunch of masala dosa
Port Louis
Port Louis park
Our last excursion from Moka was to reach the summit of Mont Deux Mamelles (584m) . We started in the sugar cane fields near Beau Bois.
View of Pieter Both from Deux Mamelles East peak
Cane field view from Deux Mamelles peak
Indian food stop in St Pierre
lunch
From Moka, it was onto Flic-en-flac and its well known beach. We arrived on a Sunday and it was full-on.
Sunday afternoon, Flic-en-flac beach
Mauritians had some serious beach set-ups
Percussion group, Flic-en-flac beach
Flic-en-flac beach vendor
Our apartment in Flic-en-flac
Our last day excursion was to hike to the top of Le Morne Brabant (556m). It took a couple of hours in the warmth to reach the summit. The buses to the south western section of Mauritius were minimal, so we ended up hitching a ride part way back to Flic-en-flac.
Le Morne approach view
Le Morne view
From Flic-en-flac, we took a taxi, first to Blue Bay to collect a bag that we had left at Blueberyl Guest House, then to the airport and a series of long-haul flights back to Vancouver. The taxi that had been arranged by our landlord, was late and it added a stress factor to our relaxing stay on Mauritius. We checked our bags in, passed through immigration to a final boarding call for our flight to Paris. We managed to spend the last of our Mauritian rupees at a gift shop on the way to the airport gate.
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